17 replies to this topic

[Pete649]

Well, the title says it all really. I was going to build one, then I was offered a Hayabusa engined one for sale!
Just have 2 or 3 quick questions.

Which oil are you guys using in the engine?
Does this type of engine suffer from oil surge on cornering?

Also, I don't know anything about bike engines. Is it worth buying the Haynes manual for the busa to learn about engine servicing or is there anything else I could use to teach me? (I'm OK with car engines).

Will probably have a few more questions in the future as I will be looking to develop the car further.

Thanks for any help.

Pete649

[Tomf]

Sorry i cant help but we need pictures!

[mika]

hi there should be no serge proplems realy as its set in the same way as a bike i think serge is more for the westfield type cars were that turn the engine round
how hard are you going to run the mini is it just a road car or track

[Poly_Patje]

When you do a fast corner, there is a change of getting oil surge. I did not want to take that risk and bought a complete dry sump kit for my Hayabusa engined Mini (still in progress).

[Pete649]

Sorry i cant help but we need pictures!

Are moving pictures OK?

Its the bonus hayabusa car on Ultimate Mini Extreme.
I'll post a few pics when I can borrow a camera.

Cheers
Pete

[Pete649]

how hard are you going to run the mini is it just a road car or track

Track mainly with some road use.

Pete

[koss]

Well, the title says it all really. I was going to build one, then I was offered a Hayabusa engined one for sale!
Just have 2 or 3 quick questions.

Which oil are you guys using in the engine?
Does this type of engine suffer from oil surge on cornering?

Also, I don't know anything about bike engines. Is it worth buying the Haynes manual for the busa to learn about engine servicing or is there anything else I could use to teach me? (I'm OK with car engines).

Will probably have a few more questions in the future as I will be looking to develop the car further.

Thanks for any help.

Pete649

10/40 oil

The engine can suffer on extreme cornering. There are lots of oil baffles, swinging oil pick-ups and even dry sump kits.
Having said all that on a road going z-cars mini I would doubt you will get any problems. Or keep the oil 250 over the max.

You can get some good service manuals on ebay on cd rom they have wiring diags and parts listings which are handy.

Motorbike knowledge is quite handy when driving the car. Clutch less up shifts done correctly save a bit of wear and tear on the clutch.

[Pete649]

10/40 oil

The engine can suffer on extreme cornering. There are lots of oil baffles, swinging oil pick-ups and even dry sump kits.
Having said all that on a road going z-cars mini I would doubt you will get any problems. Or keep the oil 250 over the max.

You can get some good service manuals on ebay on cd rom they have wiring diags and parts listings which are handy.

Motorbike knowledge is quite handy when driving the car. Clutch less up shifts done correctly save a bit of wear and tear on the clutch.

Thanks for the info.

Semi synth or fully synth 10/40?

[Jammy]

Moved to Z Cars chat for the time being.

[koss]

Semi

[z cars chris]

just so you all know the z cars red racer pulls 1.4 g through the corners we run a bog std sump with our own baffle system fitted we always use 10/40 silkolenesuperbike engine oil which has additives in it to help the clutch not slip
normal car synthetic oil will make your clutch slip as it has slippery additives in it to help lubricate the internals
bikle oil has been developed specially for this
we have no issues at all with the oil pickup like this
we have had the dry sump system fail on our monte carlo that we raced earlier this year and i know of three others with dry sumps that have had failures
i wouldnt waste money on a dry sump as its not needed we also start the engine with the car parked on level ground and fill with oil to the top of the sight gl;ass when ticking over,this is more than normal for the engine but causes no problems
chris

[Pete649]

Someone asked for images. Tried to upload some but couldn't get it to work

[Pete649]

Have just taken my mini out for a first drive since I bought it. Got used to it pretty quickly, but I don't think the steering angles are correct. The steering was wandering about and needed constant correction. I daren't do more than 50 and the ordinary road traffic was pulling away from me. I am currently running a standard front subframe with coil-over units but have a tubular one on order. So, out of curiosoity and as a starting point, what steering geometry angles (camber/ castor/ toe in or out) have you guys got you cars set to? And what about the rear?

Thanks for any help.

Edited by Pete649, 24 August 2007 - 07:53 AM.

[HILTY]

Have just taken my mini out for a first drive since I bought it. Got used to it pretty quickly, but I don't think the steering angles are correct. The steering was wandering about and needed constant correction. I daren't do more than 50 and the ordinary road traffic was pulling away from me. I am currently running a standard front subframe with coil-over units but have a tubular one on order. So, out of curiosoity and as a starting point, what steering geometry angles (camber/ castor/ toe in or out) have you guys got you cars set to? And what about the rear?

Thanks for any help.

Are the pinch bolts on the steering rack loose? worth checking, mine have come loose in the past.

Hilty

[minishrimpR1]

I had a similar problem with mine, dropped it round to a mate who works at Tyresales who did a full lazer wheel alignment check. Found taht they were miles out, adjusted it and now runs a whole lot better!!!