5 replies to this topic

[maph2]

does anyone know what the wiring colours for the power supply to the sunroof are and where they join to the loom. i'm guessign that the power cable comes down the passenger side a pillar?

my sunroof, temp gauge and fuel gauge arnt working so guessing that thet are all on the same circuit? could be linked to the dodgy wiper motor issue?

[Ethel]

I would imagine the sunroof operates off position 1 of the ignition switch so you can use it without the engine running the rest would be on Position 2 so shouldn't be connected. You need a wiring diagram really but you could rig up a small supply, even a torch battery, and use it to check which wires are related to which roof switch positions. If there's a black wire that will be the earth if there isn't a black wire odds on the motor's earthed to the roof so earth your supply (battery) to the body.

The wiper motor could be responsible for the gauges, try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference once you've checked the fuses.

[maph2]

The wiper motor could be responsible for the gauges, try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference once you've checked the fuses.

that will be my next test tonight

[maph2]

managed to get home this lunchtime and unplugged the wiper motor - still no joy

[Tomf]

I would also like to know this. My motor has the wires though Has anyone got any ideas?

Sorry to kind of steal the tread.

[taffy1967]

The wiring for the electric sunroof is controlled by another in-line fuse which has a white wire. It was situated to the left of the other 4 in-line fuses on my sisters BOC, but I can't remember the actual fuse rating now. A BOC owners manual will fill you in with that so check the fuse first.

The pesky wiper motor park-switch can cause a few electrical headaches when it malfunctions because it creates a short circuit which can either cause the 3rd fuse down on the main 4 fuse box to blow, or for the gauges to misread or not work. I doubt it would upset the electric sunroof though?

So replace the park-switch and Mini Spares supply a replacement multi-plug and part of the loom if required too.


It'd be worth also checking that the spade connectors haven't fallen off the fuel tank sender and the thermostat temperature sender too. If their all present then try cleaning the contacts with some emery cloth, then try the paper clip test.

Remove and connect the 2 spade connectors from the fuel tank together with a paper clip and then switch on the ignition. If the gauge reads full then the gauge is fine and the sender wire inside the tank may be to blame. If the gauge still doesn't work then the fault could be with the wiring or the gauge itself.

Try the same trick with the thermostat temperature gauge sender wire and this time earth it against the block using the paper clip. With the ignition on the temperature gauge should read Hot, if not then again it could be a wiring or gauge related problem.

Good luck and here's a list of all the fuse & in-line fuses (except for the electric sunroof in-line fuse with the white wire): -

Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead: -


1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.

2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.

3 5-6 25amp Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.

4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights, Panel Lights & Instruments.


1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".

5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".



In-Line Fuses situated behind air-filter on the bulkhead: -


15amp - Purple/Orange Wire
Hazard Warning & Interior Lamps


15amp - Brown/Orange Wire
Dim-Dip Lighting


10amp - Blue/Orange Wire
Rear Fog Guard Lamps


15amp - Blue/Red Wire
Auxiliary Cooling Fan (where fitted)