18 replies to this topic

[Jammy]

Got my indicators working at all for corners, but hazards nothing! Nothing whilst ignition on or off.

Looking at the wiring diagram for my mini (well the loom is from a 84-85 with single centre instrument pack), the hazard switch light is earthed through the rear window heater and windscreen washer motor and the panel illumination lights. Now I haven't yet witred in the panel lights, or the washer motor, or the heater motor, do I have to wire these in to earth the hazard switch and make it work?

Any other reason why my hazards wouldn't work? I can switch on the switch and the indicators stop working, but I've checked with a multimeter and I have power going in and coming out of the flasher unit...

Kinda confuddled...

[Jammy]

Really need help on this now, still haven't been able to get them to work, and the MOT is tomorrow at 2pm! ! ! ! !

The indicators now don't work with the hazard switch being on, and the hazards don't work at all. At one point I had the hazards working, but only with the key at position II, and I had to put one of the indicators on.

Also, I can't get my fog light to work, the switch doesn't come on, and there isn't power to it. Where should the inline fuse be? I've only got two behind the carb?

[MiNi FiZ]

iv got this problem at the moment, i too would like some help

[Jammy]

Really desperate on this now! If I don't get the hazards working I'll fail my MOT tomorrow and that means Jammy isn't driving to Germany!!

[Retro_10s]

Sorry jammy, The Hazard/indicator thing is a mystery to me,... and the only thing 'in-line fuse' related i could find about the fog lamp circuit is that there should be a 10amp one but i don't know where it is,... I had a look on my mini but couldn't find anything obvious....

**BUMP** (to keep this at the top)

Edited by Retro_10s, 27 August 2007 - 08:36 PM.

[Retro_10s]

.

Edited by Retro_10s, 27 August 2007 - 08:36 PM.

[MiNi FiZ]

Really desperate on this now! If I don't get the hazards working I'll fail my MOT tomorrow and that means Jammy isn't driving to Germany!!

iv found this thread

http://www.theminifo...x...&hl=hazards

[Retro_10s]

bump

[Retro_10s]

Mini_fiz put the link up not me,... but i'l happily tak the credit for it

[dklawson]

Jammy, the latest schematic I have at home is one for a Canadian Mini 1000. That may cover as late as 1978 or so. Hopefully it will be close enough to help. I'm going to start by explaining what I see in the diagram. At any point where your car begins to differ, you'll need to either improvise or skip my post.

I see two nearly identical 2-wire flasher units, one for the turn signals, one for the hazard circuit.
Power for the hazard flasher is routed via a brown wire from the starter solenoid through an inline fuse to the "X" terminal on the hazard flasher.
Power leaves the hazard flasher on its "L" terminal and goes to a 5-terminal hazard switch (still on a brown wire).
Power for the REGULAR turn signals is routed via a green wire into a terminal on the hazard switch.
Power for the REGULAR turn signals leaves the hazard switch via a second green wire.
Power for the hazards leaves the hazard switch on two wires, one green/white, one green/red.
The green/white and green/red wires go off to some undeclared place in the wiring harness where they connect with 4-way couplers... to the regular turn signal bulbs/wires.

The function should be like this...
In normal "hazard switch off" mode, power for the turn signals passes straight through the hazard switch on the green wires.
Turn on the hazard switch and two things happen, first the contact for the green wires opens (interrupting power for the regular turn signals), and second the brown wire going into the hazard switch is connected to the green/white and green/red wires.
Thus, in normal mode, no power passes through the hazard flasher and the turn signals work normally.
Close the switch hazard switch and the green wire is broken (turn signals won't work) and the turn signal bulbs/wires are connected to the brown wire going into the hazard switch.

The problem I have is I can't tell you which terminal of the five on the hazard switch goes where. If you've got a volt/ohm meter you should be able to sort this out. Disconnect all wires from the switch and take it to the bench. Turn the switch OFF. You should find one pair of contacts that are connected to each other. Now turn the hazard switch ON. Re-check the pair you just found. They should now be open. Keep checking and you should find that the remaining three terminals are all connected to each other when the hazard switch is ON. The pair that opened when you turned the switch "on" get the green wires. I'm assuming that one of the remaining three terminals will be "larger" or set apart from the other two. This would get the brown wire from the hazard flasher. The remaining two switch terminals will get the green/red and green/white wires.

All this assumes you can identify the ground connection for the indicator lamp. My diagram doesn't show this at all. Regardless, in answer to your question, the circuit should not need the indicator lamp for the hazard flasher to work.

Before leaving this subject let's look at the regular turn signals. As I mentioned, they should get power on a green wire passing through the "OFF" hazard switch. This green wire goes into the "X" terminal of the turn signal flasher. Power exists this flasher on the "L" terminal via a light-green/brown wire that appears to go to the turn signal switch on the column. Depending on whether you're turning left or right, the power is routed either to a green/white or green/red wire... and off to the bulbs.

As I mentioned earlier, somewhere in the harness, the green/white wires (and green/red wires) from the turn signal switch enter 4-way couplers where they are joined with the corresponding colored wires from the hazard flasher.

The symptoms you described earlier sound like perhaps the connections to the hazard switch are at incorrect. Try sorting the terminals out with a meter as I suggested above. With all that fiberglass up front you may need to run dedicated ground wires from EACH lamp assembly back to the chassis. The flashers work through resistance heating due to the current flow. If you're missing a bunch of lamp grounds up front you may not have enough current flow with the rear lamps to make things work. I know you said the turn signals worked for a while but you could have been "right on the edge" and temperature changes during the day could have put you beyond the acceptable range.

I'm sorry if this doesn't help. I don't have late model diagrams to work from.

Edited by dklawson, 28 August 2007 - 12:16 AM.

[dklawson]

Google long enough and choose the right keywords and you can find ALMOST anything out there.

Jammy, see the following page for a 1988 wiring diagram (probably closer to yours than what I was looking at):
http://www.wannop.ka...ng_diagrams.htm
In a separate browser window open the following JPG linked off the page above:
http://www.wannop.ka...ards-page-4.jpg

Look at section C2 of the JPG (second link) for the portion of the wiring diagram associated with the hazard light circuit.

The power wire for the regular turn signals appears to have changed from green to light-green/brown. Otherwise the colors and connections are as I mentioned above.

The indicator lamp for the hazard witch will be just another hazard switch terminal and presumably it gets connected to chassis ground since the lamp is inside the rocker switch (assuming you have the 6-contact rocker hazard switch in your harness).

As in my post above, the power for the regular turn signal circuit comes in and goes out of the hazard switch on a normally closed pair of contacts when the hazard switch is "OFF". When the hazard switch is "ON", the two terminals for the turn signal circuit open and ALL four of the remaining contacts should get joined together. Switch your multimeter into Ohm mode and turn the hazard switch "ON". Measure between the remaining four contacts (check each one to the other three). One of the four contacts should have higher resistance to all of the other contacts... you'll be measuring the resistance of the light bulb filament. You should be able to connect that terminal to ground. It looks like the terminal opposite that lamp ground terminal should be the input brown wire from the hazard flasher and the other two wires go out to the green/red and green/white wires (it shouldn't matter which goes where).

I hope this in addition to the post above helps you sort this out.

[MiNi FiZ]

good luck for the MOT dude, let us know how you got on?

[taffy1967]

If there's power going in and out of the hazard warning flasher unit and yet it still isn't working, then surely the fault must be with the flasher unit?

Also when you checked you're fog lamp, did you have you're ignition and dipped lights on at the same time too? Try it again and if it still refuses to light up, replace the bulb in the lamp. I had to buy a brand new fog lamp for my MOT and that was because the garage who did some work (the same one who did the MOT), had broken my old fog lamp and tried to fix it with lots of C**p and solder!

In addition to dklawson's information, here is a list of the in-line fuses (and their wire colours) you're model should have fitted behind the air filter box: -

15amp - Purple/Orange Wire
Hazard Warning & Interior Lamps

10amp - Blue/Orange Wire
Rear Fog Guard Lamps

Later models then also came with these: -

15amp - Brown/Orange Wire
Dim-Dip Lighting

15amp - Blue/Red Wire
Auxiliary Cooling Fan (where fitted)

Edited by taffy1967, 28 August 2007 - 05:25 PM.