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Static Timing


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#1 Guest_cooper_rsp_*

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 10:31 AM

anyone know how to set the timing static. (without a timing light) and what it should be set at? Timing light is being silly. its pinking and running on? help?

#2 Guest_cooper_rsp_*

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 10:34 AM

sorry its an mg metro engine rebored to 1293. also whats the wiring set up to put the electroinc dizzy into the system it has 3 pins? Any body

#3 dklawson

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 12:36 PM

I should really write a PDF about this one.

I haven't worked with the later Minis with electronic ignition so before trying what I'm about to post you'll need someone to confirm whether or not the Mini electronic ignition will support "zero speed firing". That means that the electronic module works just like a set of points and has positions where the electronic switch appears opened or closed regardless of whether the engine is running or not. Later electronic ignitions on some cars do NOT support zero speed firing so they cannot be static timed.

Succinctly, the basic steps are:
1) make a test lamp using a 12V bulb and a length of 2-conductor wire.
2) connect one lead from the test lamp to coil (-), the other to chassis ground.
3) remove the spark plugs and push/pull the engine around in the NORMAL direction of rotation stopping on the desired timing mark. (Roll the car in gear, jack up one front wheel and turn it in gear, or pull the fan belt).

(Either check the valves or look at the dizzy rotor position to confirm that the timing marks are lining up for #1 cylinder... the rotor will be pointing toward the position on the cap that goes to the #1 spark plug lead... the rocker arms for #1 cylinder will both be "loose" so you can wiggle them by hand).

(If you don't know the static timing for your car, start with about 5-8 BTDC... you really need a working light to set it dynamically after static timing anyway).

4) loosen the dizzy clamp and switch on the car's ignition.
5) turn the dizzy body COUTERCLOCKWISE until the test lamp is fully off and then go a little bit (10-20 degrees) more.
6) SLOWLY turn the dizzy body CLOCKWISE as you watch the test lamp.
7) as soon as the test lamps flickers on, STOP, and tighten the dizzy clamp.
8) remove the test lamp, switch off the ignition, re-install the spark plugs.

That's the procedure in a nutshell. General caveats... always turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation. If you back up because you overshoot the timing mark you want, go about 30 degrees backwards then slowly turn the engine in its normal direction, stopping on the mark you want.

#4 Ethel

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 12:41 PM

Electronic ignition might complicate things...

with points you'd line the timing marks up where you want them then turn the dizzy to the point where the points just close as indicated by a bulb temporarily wired in place of the coil.

you could possibly use a multi meter across the coil to should when it discharges

Edited by Ethel, 27 August 2007 - 12:55 PM.


#5 dklawson

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 02:46 PM

You don't need to remove the coil. The test lamp between coil (-) and ground will tell you what you need to know as will the multimeter. When the test light is on, it means that current is NOT passing through the distributor. This is the equivalent of "points open". During this condition, a multimeter connected between coil (-) and chassis ground would show battery voltage (12v).

by the way, you turn the dizzy body CW slowly until the points just open, not close. The coil fires when the points open and its internal magnetic field collapses. That's when you get a spark.

What you need to know... and I don't know since I've never worked with an electronic Lucas dizzy... is whether that ignition will support zero speed firing. In other words, CAN you static time a Lucas electronic ignition.

As an example, my car is running a Hitachi distributor with electronic ignition. It does NOT support zero speed firing. I can align the mechanical bits CLOSE enough to get the car to start, but it's not really timed. I have to use a timing light once the engine is running to set the timing.

Edited by dklawson, 27 August 2007 - 02:48 PM.


#6 Guest_cooper_rsp_*

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 08:00 PM

Thanks guys for your help. It goes a lot better now and its not pratting about like it was. I was after what wires go where to put the electronic dizzy in place.
A frind of mines dad said to set the timing just as it starts to pink under heavy load and back it off a bit and it should be about on peak performance? How true is this? and is it reliable?

#7 dklawson

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Posted 27 August 2007 - 08:55 PM

It's very true. Another method similar to this is to take the engine to about 4000 RPM and hold it there. Then you set the dynamic timing to 30-35 BTDC and lock the dizzy down. You test drive the car just like your friend advised listening or pinging. If you notice any, you retard the timing in 1 or 2 degree steps until the pinging goes away. This way you're running with the most advance that your engine and your grade of fuel will allow.

For this timing method you need to force the engine to work under load. A common way to do this it to accelerate up a steep hill in 4th gear... when you should be in 3rd gear. If it's going to ping, that will typically do it.




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