2 replies to this topic

[spud]

Hi,

I have just about finished the respray of my Mini but one of the wings did have a smallish ding in the top of it which I filled with filler. However, I could never get a satifactory finish to it as when blocking it smooth it would always remove too much from the perimeter edge of the repair. I eventualy got it quite good, but when I put a few coats of gloss on it stood out quite badly. It looks a lot like a puncture repair on an inner tube.

Could I use a stopper or a cellulose putty to fill it now and relevel? If so which one? One of them might be fine enough (I've never used any of these before) to fill the necessary low areas and actually flat down properly!!

Will I have to primer that area again before I top gloss?

Cheers,

Spud.

[roofless]

Hi,

I have just about finished the respray of my Mini but one of the wings did have a smallish ding in the top of it which I filled with filler. However, I could never get a satifactory finish to it as when blocking it smooth it would always remove too much from the perimeter edge of the repair. I eventualy got it quite good, but when I put a few coats of gloss on it stood out quite badly. It looks a lot like a puncture repair on an inner tube.

Could I use a stopper or a cellulose putty to fill it now and relevel? If so which one? One of them might be fine enough (I've never used any of these before) to fill the necessary low areas and actually flat down properly!!

Will I have to primer that area again before I top gloss?

Cheers,

Spud.

get some dolphin glaze - its a much finer and runnier filler that allows for those final perfections - as you sand it in use a finer grade of paper - it takes longer but removes less material so you have more control in getting the shape perfect.

also maybe make yourself a form sander - a long strip of flexible 6mm MDF with thin foam on one side - glue your sandpaper to the foam and when you use it, it helps soften areas of filler out over a larger area so nothing stands out too much when final coated - if you've got access to one use a longer bodied twin piston sander with a finer grade of paper, and a soft base.

yes - you will need to prime and top coat the entire area again.

I'm no pro but it definately seems to help give a much more uniform final shape.

[jack_marshall]

I think I know what you mean.. You can see the faint edges of the repair through the paint?

To be honest I would carry on painting it. Get plenty of paint on there and get a good finish.

If you get enough paint on it, you will be able to rub over the area, with 1500-2000 paper on a block. This is what we refer to as 'blocking out'. And alot of the time it will level the area off and make the repair invisible.

The area will obviously need buffing and polishing after with a polishing compound such as Farecla G3. As the blocking will flatten and dull the area.