7 replies to this topic

[Scruffs]

Hi Everybody...

Been stripping my upright assemblies today ready for the fiesta brake swap over

I think I might need to get my hands on some new stub axles (/cv joint assemblies...etc.) as they seem very worn where the inner races of the wheel bearings sit.

How much wear is acceptable on these? Where the outermost bearing sits has lost about 5 thou (.13mm) off the diameter on the worst one. Is this kind of wear normal or are they non-genuine chocolate duffers? The perfectionist in me wants to renew them but I don't want to chuck them if they will be fine, as the budget is limited at best and I hate waste for no reason...I'll try attaching a photo for your ocular pleasure aswell...

Cheers in advance, any help much appreciated!

Al

Also - could anyone tell me a min. disc thickness before they need renewing? Haynes says but nuffing....

Attached Files

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[ginigwunkle]

my vented are 22mm and min thick 20mm

i believe std are 12 min 10mm....

they look worse for wear, just renewed the wheel bearings on mine and they looked nothing like that!

best to change and forget than need changing in a few months!!!

[busa1999]

looks like your bearing has been spining on the shaft are your bearings ok

[Dan]

It's not a stub axle, it's a CV joint and it's knackered. Acceptable wear is roughly none. Surface discolouration is OK but if you can measure or feel a depression, replace it. I don't think it's been spinning, if it had it would cut through the CV in a couple of miles and the heat would be immense. There would be a lot more damage visible both to the CV and the upright. From the photo it looks like it's either corrosion due to water getting between the two (missing water shields or tired and dried grease seals can cause this) or a slightly loose wheel bearing allowing slop in the CV. Common when the bearings aren't torqued using a flat washer during fitting or are simply worn.

[Scruffs]

Cheers for your replies

Whatever they're called, i'm prepared to accept they're buggered! Shame tho because the actual CV joint itself is fine. No complaints from the wheelbearings either, but that's not to say they won't be shot in 20 miles time

Thinking about it, I guess this shaft must be a very close tolerance as the inner race is a sliding fit when it's assembled. Are bearings such as this designed so that when they're preloaded the inner race shrinks to a light interference fit on the shaft?? Anyone know??

[Dan]

No I don't think so, they're just a very good fit. If they shrunk on you'd never get them off again. The bearing race and CV are made from about the hardest steel you can imagine, shrinking it would be tough! The cast iron bearing seperator in the hub is a lot softer and would collapse long before the bearing race. Because the tollerances are roughly zero, once the wear starts they rapidly get worn out. As you say it's a shame to replace it since the rest of it works but sadly the fit is so accurate there's nothing else to do.

[Scruffs]

Have I got to be wary of non-genuine CV joints??

Think I've got the one - labelled as '1275 CV joint' minispares - http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34444

With a handy picture of a rubber cone for good measure...?!

What makes this not a stub axle then? Is it because it rotates with the wheel, whereas on the rear (which I am assuming IS a stub axle) is static?

[Dan]

You got it. I suppose it's kind of a stub drive shaft but really just part of the CV joint.