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Starting Problems- New Engine!


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#1 TopCatCustom

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Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:24 PM

Hey guys, finished building a 1330 engine up from a pile of bits (important stuff is all new) and dropeed it in my mini this evening but 2 probs:
1. When turning over its making a rasping sound from the clutch end and feels quite restistant to move?! (maybe waiting to fire up and oil to get around the system?
2. It isnt firing up but pops now and again so was wondering if I may have put the dizzy on 180degs out on the timing? Also what is the correct sequence for the HT leads to go to the plugs?
Thanks

#2 alexcrosse

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Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:31 PM

1 3 4 2. Sounds dizzyish. Mine turned over beautiful (1430) and fired almost straight away. Oil wont effect much, but be weary of smoke. Set the leads to 1 3 4 2 and then when cylinder 1 is at TDC take the dizzy cover off to see if the arm is pointing to the number 1 HT lead. Make sure its on the firing stroke and 4 isnt (both valves shut)

#3 mk1leg

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Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:44 PM

Hi..!..C4NNON.. a little tip from an old raceing engine builder friend of mine, take out spark plugs and disconect coil,turn over engine, this way you do not put unnessasery strain on dry big end bearings... :withstupid: ..mk1leg..

Edited by mk1leg, 08 September 2007 - 07:46 PM.


#4 alexcrosse

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Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:49 PM

what do u mean by clutch end? no4 cylinder, or noise coming more at crank level near clutch? Did you not turn it over outside the car? (by hand) Set all of your clearances on rocker? The rocker cover isnt holding all ur valves open?

#5 TopCatCustom

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 10:38 AM

Yes I built it up and did a dry run which was fine and then have turned it over once the box and clutch were on- all really tight to move but the guys at the machine shop measured the journals etc n were happy with the bearings etc n most are new anyway. My cousin said the rasping sounded like it was from the clutch end of the engine but maybe the starter motor? Tho was fine before!!!

#6 TopCatCustom

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 10:40 AM

Oh n can I just spin the dizzy 180degs rather than take it out and find tdc etc etc?

#7 Scruffs

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 11:56 AM

Oh n can I just spin the dizzy 180degs rather than take it out and find tdc etc etc?


swapping leads 1-4 and 2-3 is the same as spinning the dizzy 180deg. As before firing order is 1-3-4-2, but not sure if anyone mentioned #1 is at the rad end??

compression ok?

#8 TopCatCustom

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:01 PM

Given up today as extremely hungover but it still didnt start.

1 Is a very small spark present- was expecting more with huge leads new plugs new aldon coil electric dizzy but its there

2 The grinding doesnt happen when I turn over the engine by hand so presuming starter motor under loads of strain?

3 Took the plugs out and it turns over a lot quicker which I presume is a good sign

4 Bled the orange clutch and starting was even harder with my foot on it- battery was going bit flat by then- guessing theres more side load on crank with foot on clutch so maybe thats not all wrong?

Oh dear, anyone?

#9 Scruffs

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:15 PM

guessing theres more side load on crank with foot on clutch so maybe thats not all wrong?


I seem to remember reading that if the axial load on the crankshaft is causing it to slow then something is rather seriously up with oil flow around the crank thrust bearings? I may be wrong but you might want to refrain from keep turning it over until somebody who knows for definite if i'm talking C**p or not gets back to you!

Doubt it would stop your engine starting though. Firing order all ok now?

#10 Dan

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:30 PM

Yes it is harder for the engine to turn with your foot on the clutch, especially with an uprated clutch spring.

#11 Ethel

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:50 PM

Just a thought, the ring gear and starter are the same aren't they? inertia or pre-engaged.

Was the car ballasted ignition? It should get 12volts to the coil even if it was when starting but if only the ballasted supply is attached it won't.

The firing order is 1342, on the dizzy 1 is the ht terminal nearest no1 spark plug and the order goes anticlockwise from there so 2 ends up underneath 1.

If the dizzy was 180 degrees out you shouldn't really just swap the leads round to cure it (though it may prove what the fault is) - the drive tonge 'n groove is offset so you'll be creating a side load that will make things wear.

#12 TopCatCustom

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Posted 10 September 2007 - 06:39 AM

Thanks Ethel Il check the starter as it came with another one but I wasnt sure about the fit so Il check- I modified the electric dizzy off my mg metro engine to fit the A series block so the coil should be the same as teh old engine non ballast yea? Thanks

#13 Sprocket

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Posted 10 September 2007 - 08:54 AM

The Inertia starter is pants! I have the orange clutch and the compression ratio is also high, so, when turning the engine over, if i depress the clutch, the starter really struggles to turn it over. starts no problem with clutch released.

Things are bad when you depress the clutch with the engine running and the engine slows down considerably or it stalls, thats when you should wory about the thrust bearings and wear.

As for the poping, deffo sounds like its a firing order and ignition timing issue.

#14 Sprocket

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Posted 10 September 2007 - 09:06 AM

If the dizzy was 180 degrees out you shouldn't really just swap the leads round to cure it (though it may prove what the fault is) - the drive tonge 'n groove is offset so you'll be creating a side load that will make things wear.


It doesnt matter where the dizzy is as long as the rotor points to #1 plug lead at TDC on the combustion stroke. You could fit the dizzy 180 degrees, 90 degrees or 270 degrees out and all you would have to do is swap the plug leads round. The dizzy drive has an offset slot so that the dizzy will only fit in it one way, so if you remove the dizzy and turn it round 180 the rotor arm will still be in the same place but the leads on the cap will have moved 180. If you take the dizzy drive out and re install 180 round, the dizzy body will be in the same place, but the rotor arm will have moved 180.

You need to install the dizzy drive and dizzy body so you can achieve a good adjustmant range without the vac advance diaphragm hitting the oil supply pipe, once this is done you can then find which plug lead is number on and work the rest out anticlockwise from there. It doesnt matter which way round things are as lo as the firing order is 1 3 4 2 anti clock wise starting on cylinder 1 at TDC on the combustion stroke, IE both valves on cylinder i are closed.

Tip

fit the dizzy cap to the dizzy and mark the dizzy body where the plug leads are, IE four marks exactly 90 degrees apart that correspond to the plug leads, then its easier to set up the dizzy rotor to point in the right direction.




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