
Starting Problems- New Engine!
#1
Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:24 PM
1. When turning over its making a rasping sound from the clutch end and feels quite restistant to move?! (maybe waiting to fire up and oil to get around the system?
2. It isnt firing up but pops now and again so was wondering if I may have put the dizzy on 180degs out on the timing? Also what is the correct sequence for the HT leads to go to the plugs?
Thanks
#2
Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:31 PM
#3
Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:44 PM

Edited by mk1leg, 08 September 2007 - 07:46 PM.
#4
Posted 08 September 2007 - 07:49 PM
#5
Posted 09 September 2007 - 10:38 AM
#6
Posted 09 September 2007 - 10:40 AM
#7
Posted 09 September 2007 - 11:56 AM
Oh n can I just spin the dizzy 180degs rather than take it out and find tdc etc etc?
swapping leads 1-4 and 2-3 is the same as spinning the dizzy 180deg. As before firing order is 1-3-4-2, but not sure if anyone mentioned #1 is at the rad end??
compression ok?
#8
Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:01 PM
1 Is a very small spark present- was expecting more with huge leads new plugs new aldon coil electric dizzy but its there
2 The grinding doesnt happen when I turn over the engine by hand so presuming starter motor under loads of strain?
3 Took the plugs out and it turns over a lot quicker which I presume is a good sign
4 Bled the orange clutch and starting was even harder with my foot on it- battery was going bit flat by then- guessing theres more side load on crank with foot on clutch so maybe thats not all wrong?
Oh dear, anyone?
#9
Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:15 PM
guessing theres more side load on crank with foot on clutch so maybe thats not all wrong?
I seem to remember reading that if the axial load on the crankshaft is causing it to slow then something is rather seriously up with oil flow around the crank thrust bearings? I may be wrong but you might want to refrain from keep turning it over until somebody who knows for definite if i'm talking C**p or not gets back to you!
Doubt it would stop your engine starting though. Firing order all ok now?
#10
Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:30 PM
#11
Posted 09 September 2007 - 04:50 PM
Was the car ballasted ignition? It should get 12volts to the coil even if it was when starting but if only the ballasted supply is attached it won't.
The firing order is 1342, on the dizzy 1 is the ht terminal nearest no1 spark plug and the order goes anticlockwise from there so 2 ends up underneath 1.
If the dizzy was 180 degrees out you shouldn't really just swap the leads round to cure it (though it may prove what the fault is) - the drive tonge 'n groove is offset so you'll be creating a side load that will make things wear.
#12
Posted 10 September 2007 - 06:39 AM
#13
Posted 10 September 2007 - 08:54 AM
Things are bad when you depress the clutch with the engine running and the engine slows down considerably or it stalls, thats when you should wory about the thrust bearings and wear.
As for the poping, deffo sounds like its a firing order and ignition timing issue.
#14
Posted 10 September 2007 - 09:06 AM
If the dizzy was 180 degrees out you shouldn't really just swap the leads round to cure it (though it may prove what the fault is) - the drive tonge 'n groove is offset so you'll be creating a side load that will make things wear.
It doesnt matter where the dizzy is as long as the rotor points to #1 plug lead at TDC on the combustion stroke. You could fit the dizzy 180 degrees, 90 degrees or 270 degrees out and all you would have to do is swap the plug leads round. The dizzy drive has an offset slot so that the dizzy will only fit in it one way, so if you remove the dizzy and turn it round 180 the rotor arm will still be in the same place but the leads on the cap will have moved 180. If you take the dizzy drive out and re install 180 round, the dizzy body will be in the same place, but the rotor arm will have moved 180.
You need to install the dizzy drive and dizzy body so you can achieve a good adjustmant range without the vac advance diaphragm hitting the oil supply pipe, once this is done you can then find which plug lead is number on and work the rest out anticlockwise from there. It doesnt matter which way round things are as lo as the firing order is 1 3 4 2 anti clock wise starting on cylinder 1 at TDC on the combustion stroke, IE both valves on cylinder i are closed.
Tip
fit the dizzy cap to the dizzy and mark the dizzy body where the plug leads are, IE four marks exactly 90 degrees apart that correspond to the plug leads, then its easier to set up the dizzy rotor to point in the right direction.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users