ok here is one for someone to answer or turn to a FAQ
what do i need to do to remove the engine/gearbox?
Ive removed the carb
Ive removed the exhaust
Ive undone the mounts on the bottom of the engine/subframe
I then got rained off
What else is needed to do so i can lift it out?
Removing An Engine
Started by
slick
, Sep 23 2007 11:11 AM
1 reply to this topic
#2
panelbeaterpeter
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- 5,606 posts
Crazy About Mini's
- Location: Scotland
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 11:36 AM
1. Before you start, get a big plastic box to put all the bits you take off
into. A
smaller one with a lid is a good idea for the nuts and bolts you take off.
Loads
of rags will also be useful for wiping, mopping up oil etc.
2. References to spanner sizes are both imperial and metric. In most cases
the fixing are imperial so imperial spanners will be a slightly better fit.
3. Make sure you have plenty of beer in the fridge. You might need it later.
Stage 1: Preliminary work.
There is no need to do any of these steps in any particular order but
removing
the bonnet before doing anything else will stop you gashing your head on the
catch.
1. Remove the four 11mm/7/16' nuts and washers and remove the bonnet.
Put the nuts and washers back on the studs so they don't get lost.
2A. remove the air filter housing by undoing the wingnuts on the top of it.
2B. If your car is fitted with a K&N filter or similar it will be held on by
two nuts
which face the bulkhead. Undo these, taking care not to drop them down the
back of the engine, then remove the top cover and the filter from the carb.
3. Remove the grille. This is usually held on by about 8 self tapping
screws, 4
along the top and 2 at either end. Chances are, if your car is getting on a
bit,
they will be a cheery mix of cross and flat head screws.
4. Remove the splashguard (if fitted). This is held on by 3 clips, 2 at the
top
which hold it to the rocker cover, and one at the bottom behind the front
valence. Twist the clips through 90° and pull the guard away.
5. Disconnect the battery. This will either have screws going into the tops
of
the terminals or nuts and bolts clamping around them. Either way you may
have to prise the leads off.
6. Remove the horn by disconnecting the purple/black wire and undoing the
13mm/1/2' nut holding it to its bracket. You may need to hold the horn to
stop
it turning.
7. Drain the oil (necessary because the otherwise oil will p*ss out when
you remove the pot joints from the diff later). It is sensible to use latex
gloves or a barrier cream as old engine oil is carcinogenic (gives you
cancer). For this reason make sure your hands are clean before you use
the little boys' or girls' room. Dispose of the oil at the tip not down the
drain.
Stage 2: Removal of engine components and controls: Again, there is no
particular order to follow with this.
Carburettor and inlet manifold
1. Loosen the 11mm/7/16' nut on the end of the throttle linkage and withdraw
the cable. Once you have removed the cable, tighten the nut up again so you
don't lose it. Tuck the cable behind the brake and clutch master cylinders
out of the way. The end of it will hurt like hell if it goes in your eye.
2. Using a 5mm socket undo the choke cable retaining bolt. You can hold the
sleeve that the nut screws into to minimise turning. If you don't have a
socket
or spanner small enough, you can use pliers here too. Remove the bolt and
sleeve and put in your nuts and bolts jar or they will drop out never to
be seen again.
3. Remove the fuel pipe from the carb. This will be retained either by a
cheapo wire clip that you undo with pliers or a jubilee clip. Having removed
the clip, pull the pipe off (some fuel will spill out).
4. Remove the fuel overflow pipe. This just pulls off.
5. Remove the crankcase breather pipe. Again, this will just pull off. (If
your
car has an aftermarket air filter and inlet manifold, this may no longer be
fitted.)
6. Remove the vacuum advance pipe from the carb and distributor and put on
your pile of bits.
At this point you have a choice. You can either remove the carb and manifold
as one unit or remove the carb first. Removing them as one unit is more
fiddly
but probably quicker and means you don't need as many gaskets when you
put it all back together. Removing the carb first gives better access to the
manifold nuts.
Removal of carb and manifold as one unit.
7. Remove the 6 13mm/½' inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. To
undo the one behind the exhaust heat take off an angled/wobbly
extension on your socket might be needed. A long extention makes life
easier but the nut behind the float chamber on the carb is a swine to get
to.
8. Remove the exhaust heat take off.
9. Slide the carb and manifold off the studs and withdraw. You may have
to slightly bend the throttle return spring mounting and use a certain
amount of industrial language to get clearance.
Removal of carb and manifold separately
7. Remove the 13mm/1/2' nuts and washers holding the carb to the inlet
manifold. There may be either 2 or 4 depending and the carb and manifold
fitted. Disconnect the fuel pipe and overflow pipe from the carb.Don't worry
about plugging the fuel line as you will be disconnecting the fuel pipe from
the
pump shortly.
8. Slide the carb of the studs and add to your pile of removed bits.
9. Remove the 6 13mm/½' inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. A long
reach socket and extention will make access easier.
10. Slide the manifold off the studs and add to the growing pile in the
corner.
Alternator
1. Loosen the two top mounting nuts and bolts. These are usually 13mm/1/2'
but could be 14mm/9/16' and the 14mm/9/16 nut and bolt at the bottom. Push
the alternator down to slacken the fanbelt and remove it from the pulley.
2. Undo the metal clip which hold the multi-pin wiring plug into the back of
the
alternator and pull the plug out.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts and withdraw the alternator through the grille
opening.
Starter Motor
1. Disconnect the thick brown wire with the red tracer by pulling off the
large
spade connector.
2. Undo the 13mm/1/2' nut on the end of the motor and remove the thick
balck wired and two bunches of brown wire. Put the nut back on the stud for
safe keeping.
3. Disconnect the white cable with the yellow trace by pulling off the spade
connector. All the wiring connections to the motor should now be undone.
4. Loosen but do not remove the 14mm/9/16' top mounting bolt. This
will be tight and it is not easy to get at so watch your knuckles
5. Remove the bottom bolt (same size as the top one) then remove the top
one. Support the motor to stop it falling then remove through the grille
aperture. If the motor is stuck a sharp tap with a block of wood will shift
it.
6. Replace the bolts in the housing.
Note: You may find, as I did, that the bolts were too tight to undo with the
engine in-situ. If this happens don't panic. The engine will come out with
the
starter attached but you might need to remove the horn bracket for
clearance.
Distributor (dizzy).
Note. It is not essential to remove the distributor but doing so will stop
it
getting damaged. Even if you leave it on you should remove the cap and rotor
arm.
1. Number the plug leads with Tipp-ex and mark where plug number one is
attached to the dizzy.
2. Pull the leads off the plugs and the coil.
3. Release the spring clips holding the cap to the dizzy and remove the cap
and leads.
4. In the centre of the dizzy you will see the rotor arm. Remove this and
put it
in your nuts and bolts jar.
5. To remove the dizzy itself, first, clean around it with a rag and mark
the both
the engine block and the dizzy where it enters the block with tipp-ex so
that
you can realign it for timing purposes when it goes back in.
6. Loosen but do not remove the bolt on the clamp which holds the dizzy and
slide the clamp out of the way. (Note: if your car does not have an A+
engine
the clamp will be different. )
7. Wobble the dizzy from side to side whilst pulling gently. When it comes
free
remove it through the grille aperture.
8. Plug the hole in the block with kitchen roll, a rag (or you wife's best
teatowel)
to stop dirt or small woodland creatures getting into your engine.
Coil
1. Remove the two spade connectors noting which colour wire goes to which
connection on the distributor. The connections should be different anyway
but
may not be.
2. Undo the upper and lower 13mm/1/2' bolts holding the coil clamp to the
bracket and remove the coil.
3. Put the bolts back in the bracket for safe keeping.
Clutch slave cylinder
1. Undo the two 9/16' bolts holding the slave cylinder on the bracket on
the clutch housing. One is very close to the subframe and tricky to get
to. A universal joint on your socket will make it easier.
2. Pull the cylinder away from the pushrod, leaving the rod attached to the
clutch cover. Tie the cylinder to the brake pipes on the bulkhead with
string or
wire.
3 Refit the bolts into the bracket.
4. Note. You may need to transfer the bracket to your new engine. If so,
undo
the 14mm/9/16' bolts on the top of it and the 11mm/7/16' bolt and spacer at
the side and remove the bracket. Refit the bolts for safe keeping.
Washer bottle
1. Disconnect the two spade connectors.
2. Pull the bottle upwards off the bracket on the inner wing. Empty the
water
out before it empties itself in your toolbox.
Note: Watch you hands on the bracket, the edges are sharp.
Engine stabilizer
1. Remove 13mm/1/2' bolt securing the stabiliser to the
engine.
2. Remove the 13mm/1/2' bolt that secures the bracket to the block. Put the
bracket on your pile of bits.
3. Remove the nut and bolt securing the stabliliser to the bulkhead. You may
need to tap the bolt through from underneath. Put the bolts back in place
and
throw the stabliser on the pile.
Bottom engine stabiliser. (attached to engine block under the starter
motor). This is easier to remove with the car on axle stands.
1. Undo and remove the 14mm/9/16' bolt securing the stabiliser to the
bracket
on the gearbox.
2. Pull the bracket down slightly out of the way and put the bolt back
through
the stabliser for safe keeping.
Heater air intake. The big plastic tube thing on the nearside inner wing.
1. Working under the inner wing, pull the plastic corrugated pipe off the
intake.
2. Using brute force and a certain amount of industrial language, pull
the intake out of the hole. Don't worry about breaking it as it is quite
sturdy. A fair amount of wiggling and pulling might be needed.
Exhaust Manifold
If your car is fitted with an LCB you should just about be able to get the
engine
out without taking the LCB off. I managed to and others have too. However,
if
you don't want to chance it, or if it's mullered anyway...
1. separate the two parts of the LCB at the Y-piece underneath by undoing the
clamps (usually 13mm or ½' bolts but not always).
2. Remove the two parts upwards through the engine bay. These can be
a nightmare to get apart. Your swearing gland will really work overtime.
Heater valve
1. Loosen the jubilee clip securing the hose to the heater
valve.
2. Pull the hose off the valve and tuck it out of the way. Some water will
come
out at this point.
3. Using a ¼' socket or spanner loosen but don't remove the securing bolt at
the end of the heater cable.
4. Loosen the screw on the clamp around the cable sleeve.
5. Remove the cable from the tap and tighten up the clamp so that you don't
lose the screw.
Odds and sods
Remove the crankcase breather hose from the flame trap (the black cylinder
on the timing chain cover and/or clutch housing).
Undo the jubilee clip securing the heater hose to the bottom radiator hose.
This might be tight so swearing at it will help. Be careful not to spill
water
down the flame trap.
Pull the battery cable out of the rubber grommet on the clutch housing and
pull though the grille opening out of the way.
Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel pump. It's not a bad idea to plug the
line
from the tank with a bolt or something to stop petrol siphoning out.
Gear selector removal
Note: for this job you need maximum swearing capability. Blinking flip will
not be sufficient.
1. Chock the back wheels then jack the car up and place axle stands
under the front subframe. You should never venture under the car
relying solely on the jack. Put the car into reverse.
2. Get under the car and find the point where the gear selector shaft and
stabliser connect to the gearbox. The rod connected to the gearlever and the
rod which enters the 'box are joined by a sleeve secured at each end by a
roll
pin. You need to remove the rollpin nearest the gearbox.
2. The theory is that you use a small bolt, a punch, a nail or some other
small
implement to tap the pin out of the shaft. In practise you will fart about
forages and the thing won't budge. Get some light under there, by means of a
torch or leadlight, to make sure you are hitting the pin. Once I made sure I
could see properly, mine came out fairly easily using a punch.
3. Undo the 13mm/1/2' bolt holding the stabliser bar just above the selector
rod.
4. Remove the bolt and pull the selector rod off the gearbox and lower it to
the
floor.
5. Go and have a brew and a sit down because it is almost time to start
lifting.
From this point, you will need to carry out each step in sequence.
REMOVING ENGINE
A. Attach your rope or chain.
There are probably four dozen different ways of attaching the engine to the
crane but the following method is tried and tested. When you lift the engine
it
comes up nice and straight with no tendancy to tip.
1.Attach one end of your rope of chain to the left hand (when viewed from
the
front of the car) manifold stud. Use a nut and a decent sized washer to
ensure
the your rope/chain cannot slip off.
2.Attach the other end to the rear alternator mounting bracket on the front
of
the block. You can either remove the bracket and use bolts and washers or
use the bracket as I did.
Note: Be sure to leave enough slack in the rope/chain so that you can lower
the engine to the ground once you have removed it. (Guess how I worked that
one out!!)
B. Engine mounts
B1. Driver's side: located behind the wheel. Wire brush the nuts and spray
with penetrating oil before you start. The 13mm/1/2' bolts are on the engine
bay side at the bottom of the clutch housing and will require a spanner
holding
them in place whilst a socket is used to undo the nuts under the wheelarch.
You can't see the bolts so will have to feel for them. Put the nuts and
bolts in
your jar.
B2. Passenger side: Same size as the other side. The bolts are
underneath the radiator and are very hard to get at. You will need some
help for this.
i) Get someone with skinny arms to hold a spanner on the bolts (access
via the back of the radiator) whilst another helper to pull the engine
forward.
ii)Whilst this is going on, undo the nuts under the wheelarch. Put your
nuts and bolts in your jar.
Note 1. If you can't find two willing helpers you can get at the mounts a
lot easier by removing the radiator. This isn't necessary to get the
engine out as it mounts to the engine mounting which comes out with
the engine but will make like easier if you you are a Billy-no-mates.
Note 2. If your car has had a recent engine change you might find that it
has
engine mountings fitted with captive nuts on the engine bay side and bolts
going through from the inner wing. These are much easier to remove because
you don't need to hold a spanner in the engine bay.
You are now ready to start lifting the engine out but there are a couple of
things you need to do as you lift.
C. Release the pot joints from the differential.
Note: this method is not that shown in HBOL but DOES work.
1) roll up your hoist and lift the engine a couple of inches.
2) get underneath the car and lever the one pot joint off the spline in the
diff
using a tyre lever or a small crowbar in the gap between the joint and diff
housing; or
If you can't get it using a tyre lever there is a special Rover tool which
most
mini specialists sell a version of that you can use; or
If you can't get hold of that, take a scissor-type ball joint splitter and
separate
into its components. Take the forked part and hammer it into the gap to
separate the joint and diff. A forked type ball-joint splitter will also do
this job
as long as it is one with fairly sharp forks.
3) Lever the joint completely off the diff whilst pushing the engine away
from
the joint.
4) Repeat the process on the other side.
D. Disconnect the speedo drive: located on the end of the engine on the
passenger side.
1) Check that everything (except the speedo drive) is disconnected and
that wiring etc. is tucked out of the way so it cannot snag. You can now
lift the engine up until you can get at the speedo drive (where the thick
black cable connects to the engine). As you lift, either get a helper to
make sure that everything is clear, or stop frequently and check
yourself. Note, if you left your LCB on the car check that it isn't hooked
up on the diff housing. You may need to pull the engine slightly towards
the front of the car as it goes up for clearance.
2) Once the drive is accessable, undo the knurled nut holding it to the
gearbox. You will probably need to use molegrips for this.
3) Once it is undone, raise the engine until it is clear of the front
panel,
keep checking that nothing is snagged or caught.
4) Once the bottom of the engine is higher the front panel, pull the
crane back so that the engine is away from the car. Once clear, slowly
lower the engine until it is about 12 inches from the floor. You can then
move the engine to where you want it as it will be more stable in this
lower position. Slowly lower the engine to the floor (do it fast and you
will crack the sump).
Job Done.
into. A
smaller one with a lid is a good idea for the nuts and bolts you take off.
Loads
of rags will also be useful for wiping, mopping up oil etc.
2. References to spanner sizes are both imperial and metric. In most cases
the fixing are imperial so imperial spanners will be a slightly better fit.
3. Make sure you have plenty of beer in the fridge. You might need it later.
Stage 1: Preliminary work.
There is no need to do any of these steps in any particular order but
removing
the bonnet before doing anything else will stop you gashing your head on the
catch.
1. Remove the four 11mm/7/16' nuts and washers and remove the bonnet.
Put the nuts and washers back on the studs so they don't get lost.
2A. remove the air filter housing by undoing the wingnuts on the top of it.
2B. If your car is fitted with a K&N filter or similar it will be held on by
two nuts
which face the bulkhead. Undo these, taking care not to drop them down the
back of the engine, then remove the top cover and the filter from the carb.
3. Remove the grille. This is usually held on by about 8 self tapping
screws, 4
along the top and 2 at either end. Chances are, if your car is getting on a
bit,
they will be a cheery mix of cross and flat head screws.
4. Remove the splashguard (if fitted). This is held on by 3 clips, 2 at the
top
which hold it to the rocker cover, and one at the bottom behind the front
valence. Twist the clips through 90° and pull the guard away.
5. Disconnect the battery. This will either have screws going into the tops
of
the terminals or nuts and bolts clamping around them. Either way you may
have to prise the leads off.
6. Remove the horn by disconnecting the purple/black wire and undoing the
13mm/1/2' nut holding it to its bracket. You may need to hold the horn to
stop
it turning.
7. Drain the oil (necessary because the otherwise oil will p*ss out when
you remove the pot joints from the diff later). It is sensible to use latex
gloves or a barrier cream as old engine oil is carcinogenic (gives you
cancer). For this reason make sure your hands are clean before you use
the little boys' or girls' room. Dispose of the oil at the tip not down the
drain.
Stage 2: Removal of engine components and controls: Again, there is no
particular order to follow with this.
Carburettor and inlet manifold
1. Loosen the 11mm/7/16' nut on the end of the throttle linkage and withdraw
the cable. Once you have removed the cable, tighten the nut up again so you
don't lose it. Tuck the cable behind the brake and clutch master cylinders
out of the way. The end of it will hurt like hell if it goes in your eye.
2. Using a 5mm socket undo the choke cable retaining bolt. You can hold the
sleeve that the nut screws into to minimise turning. If you don't have a
socket
or spanner small enough, you can use pliers here too. Remove the bolt and
sleeve and put in your nuts and bolts jar or they will drop out never to
be seen again.
3. Remove the fuel pipe from the carb. This will be retained either by a
cheapo wire clip that you undo with pliers or a jubilee clip. Having removed
the clip, pull the pipe off (some fuel will spill out).
4. Remove the fuel overflow pipe. This just pulls off.
5. Remove the crankcase breather pipe. Again, this will just pull off. (If
your
car has an aftermarket air filter and inlet manifold, this may no longer be
fitted.)
6. Remove the vacuum advance pipe from the carb and distributor and put on
your pile of bits.
At this point you have a choice. You can either remove the carb and manifold
as one unit or remove the carb first. Removing them as one unit is more
fiddly
but probably quicker and means you don't need as many gaskets when you
put it all back together. Removing the carb first gives better access to the
manifold nuts.
Removal of carb and manifold as one unit.
7. Remove the 6 13mm/½' inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. To
undo the one behind the exhaust heat take off an angled/wobbly
extension on your socket might be needed. A long extention makes life
easier but the nut behind the float chamber on the carb is a swine to get
to.
8. Remove the exhaust heat take off.
9. Slide the carb and manifold off the studs and withdraw. You may have
to slightly bend the throttle return spring mounting and use a certain
amount of industrial language to get clearance.
Removal of carb and manifold separately
7. Remove the 13mm/1/2' nuts and washers holding the carb to the inlet
manifold. There may be either 2 or 4 depending and the carb and manifold
fitted. Disconnect the fuel pipe and overflow pipe from the carb.Don't worry
about plugging the fuel line as you will be disconnecting the fuel pipe from
the
pump shortly.
8. Slide the carb of the studs and add to your pile of removed bits.
9. Remove the 6 13mm/½' inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. A long
reach socket and extention will make access easier.
10. Slide the manifold off the studs and add to the growing pile in the
corner.
Alternator
1. Loosen the two top mounting nuts and bolts. These are usually 13mm/1/2'
but could be 14mm/9/16' and the 14mm/9/16 nut and bolt at the bottom. Push
the alternator down to slacken the fanbelt and remove it from the pulley.
2. Undo the metal clip which hold the multi-pin wiring plug into the back of
the
alternator and pull the plug out.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts and withdraw the alternator through the grille
opening.
Starter Motor
1. Disconnect the thick brown wire with the red tracer by pulling off the
large
spade connector.
2. Undo the 13mm/1/2' nut on the end of the motor and remove the thick
balck wired and two bunches of brown wire. Put the nut back on the stud for
safe keeping.
3. Disconnect the white cable with the yellow trace by pulling off the spade
connector. All the wiring connections to the motor should now be undone.
4. Loosen but do not remove the 14mm/9/16' top mounting bolt. This
will be tight and it is not easy to get at so watch your knuckles
5. Remove the bottom bolt (same size as the top one) then remove the top
one. Support the motor to stop it falling then remove through the grille
aperture. If the motor is stuck a sharp tap with a block of wood will shift
it.
6. Replace the bolts in the housing.
Note: You may find, as I did, that the bolts were too tight to undo with the
engine in-situ. If this happens don't panic. The engine will come out with
the
starter attached but you might need to remove the horn bracket for
clearance.
Distributor (dizzy).
Note. It is not essential to remove the distributor but doing so will stop
it
getting damaged. Even if you leave it on you should remove the cap and rotor
arm.
1. Number the plug leads with Tipp-ex and mark where plug number one is
attached to the dizzy.
2. Pull the leads off the plugs and the coil.
3. Release the spring clips holding the cap to the dizzy and remove the cap
and leads.
4. In the centre of the dizzy you will see the rotor arm. Remove this and
put it
in your nuts and bolts jar.
5. To remove the dizzy itself, first, clean around it with a rag and mark
the both
the engine block and the dizzy where it enters the block with tipp-ex so
that
you can realign it for timing purposes when it goes back in.
6. Loosen but do not remove the bolt on the clamp which holds the dizzy and
slide the clamp out of the way. (Note: if your car does not have an A+
engine
the clamp will be different. )
7. Wobble the dizzy from side to side whilst pulling gently. When it comes
free
remove it through the grille aperture.
8. Plug the hole in the block with kitchen roll, a rag (or you wife's best
teatowel)
to stop dirt or small woodland creatures getting into your engine.
Coil
1. Remove the two spade connectors noting which colour wire goes to which
connection on the distributor. The connections should be different anyway
but
may not be.
2. Undo the upper and lower 13mm/1/2' bolts holding the coil clamp to the
bracket and remove the coil.
3. Put the bolts back in the bracket for safe keeping.
Clutch slave cylinder
1. Undo the two 9/16' bolts holding the slave cylinder on the bracket on
the clutch housing. One is very close to the subframe and tricky to get
to. A universal joint on your socket will make it easier.
2. Pull the cylinder away from the pushrod, leaving the rod attached to the
clutch cover. Tie the cylinder to the brake pipes on the bulkhead with
string or
wire.
3 Refit the bolts into the bracket.
4. Note. You may need to transfer the bracket to your new engine. If so,
undo
the 14mm/9/16' bolts on the top of it and the 11mm/7/16' bolt and spacer at
the side and remove the bracket. Refit the bolts for safe keeping.
Washer bottle
1. Disconnect the two spade connectors.
2. Pull the bottle upwards off the bracket on the inner wing. Empty the
water
out before it empties itself in your toolbox.
Note: Watch you hands on the bracket, the edges are sharp.
Engine stabilizer
1. Remove 13mm/1/2' bolt securing the stabiliser to the
engine.
2. Remove the 13mm/1/2' bolt that secures the bracket to the block. Put the
bracket on your pile of bits.
3. Remove the nut and bolt securing the stabliliser to the bulkhead. You may
need to tap the bolt through from underneath. Put the bolts back in place
and
throw the stabliser on the pile.
Bottom engine stabiliser. (attached to engine block under the starter
motor). This is easier to remove with the car on axle stands.
1. Undo and remove the 14mm/9/16' bolt securing the stabiliser to the
bracket
on the gearbox.
2. Pull the bracket down slightly out of the way and put the bolt back
through
the stabliser for safe keeping.
Heater air intake. The big plastic tube thing on the nearside inner wing.
1. Working under the inner wing, pull the plastic corrugated pipe off the
intake.
2. Using brute force and a certain amount of industrial language, pull
the intake out of the hole. Don't worry about breaking it as it is quite
sturdy. A fair amount of wiggling and pulling might be needed.
Exhaust Manifold
If your car is fitted with an LCB you should just about be able to get the
engine
out without taking the LCB off. I managed to and others have too. However,
if
you don't want to chance it, or if it's mullered anyway...
1. separate the two parts of the LCB at the Y-piece underneath by undoing the
clamps (usually 13mm or ½' bolts but not always).
2. Remove the two parts upwards through the engine bay. These can be
a nightmare to get apart. Your swearing gland will really work overtime.
Heater valve
1. Loosen the jubilee clip securing the hose to the heater
valve.
2. Pull the hose off the valve and tuck it out of the way. Some water will
come
out at this point.
3. Using a ¼' socket or spanner loosen but don't remove the securing bolt at
the end of the heater cable.
4. Loosen the screw on the clamp around the cable sleeve.
5. Remove the cable from the tap and tighten up the clamp so that you don't
lose the screw.
Odds and sods
Remove the crankcase breather hose from the flame trap (the black cylinder
on the timing chain cover and/or clutch housing).
Undo the jubilee clip securing the heater hose to the bottom radiator hose.
This might be tight so swearing at it will help. Be careful not to spill
water
down the flame trap.
Pull the battery cable out of the rubber grommet on the clutch housing and
pull though the grille opening out of the way.
Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel pump. It's not a bad idea to plug the
line
from the tank with a bolt or something to stop petrol siphoning out.
Gear selector removal
Note: for this job you need maximum swearing capability. Blinking flip will
not be sufficient.
1. Chock the back wheels then jack the car up and place axle stands
under the front subframe. You should never venture under the car
relying solely on the jack. Put the car into reverse.
2. Get under the car and find the point where the gear selector shaft and
stabliser connect to the gearbox. The rod connected to the gearlever and the
rod which enters the 'box are joined by a sleeve secured at each end by a
roll
pin. You need to remove the rollpin nearest the gearbox.
2. The theory is that you use a small bolt, a punch, a nail or some other
small
implement to tap the pin out of the shaft. In practise you will fart about
forages and the thing won't budge. Get some light under there, by means of a
torch or leadlight, to make sure you are hitting the pin. Once I made sure I
could see properly, mine came out fairly easily using a punch.
3. Undo the 13mm/1/2' bolt holding the stabliser bar just above the selector
rod.
4. Remove the bolt and pull the selector rod off the gearbox and lower it to
the
floor.
5. Go and have a brew and a sit down because it is almost time to start
lifting.
From this point, you will need to carry out each step in sequence.
REMOVING ENGINE
A. Attach your rope or chain.
There are probably four dozen different ways of attaching the engine to the
crane but the following method is tried and tested. When you lift the engine
it
comes up nice and straight with no tendancy to tip.
1.Attach one end of your rope of chain to the left hand (when viewed from
the
front of the car) manifold stud. Use a nut and a decent sized washer to
ensure
the your rope/chain cannot slip off.
2.Attach the other end to the rear alternator mounting bracket on the front
of
the block. You can either remove the bracket and use bolts and washers or
use the bracket as I did.
Note: Be sure to leave enough slack in the rope/chain so that you can lower
the engine to the ground once you have removed it. (Guess how I worked that
one out!!)
B. Engine mounts
B1. Driver's side: located behind the wheel. Wire brush the nuts and spray
with penetrating oil before you start. The 13mm/1/2' bolts are on the engine
bay side at the bottom of the clutch housing and will require a spanner
holding
them in place whilst a socket is used to undo the nuts under the wheelarch.
You can't see the bolts so will have to feel for them. Put the nuts and
bolts in
your jar.
B2. Passenger side: Same size as the other side. The bolts are
underneath the radiator and are very hard to get at. You will need some
help for this.
i) Get someone with skinny arms to hold a spanner on the bolts (access
via the back of the radiator) whilst another helper to pull the engine
forward.
ii)Whilst this is going on, undo the nuts under the wheelarch. Put your
nuts and bolts in your jar.
Note 1. If you can't find two willing helpers you can get at the mounts a
lot easier by removing the radiator. This isn't necessary to get the
engine out as it mounts to the engine mounting which comes out with
the engine but will make like easier if you you are a Billy-no-mates.
Note 2. If your car has had a recent engine change you might find that it
has
engine mountings fitted with captive nuts on the engine bay side and bolts
going through from the inner wing. These are much easier to remove because
you don't need to hold a spanner in the engine bay.
You are now ready to start lifting the engine out but there are a couple of
things you need to do as you lift.
C. Release the pot joints from the differential.
Note: this method is not that shown in HBOL but DOES work.
1) roll up your hoist and lift the engine a couple of inches.
2) get underneath the car and lever the one pot joint off the spline in the
diff
using a tyre lever or a small crowbar in the gap between the joint and diff
housing; or
If you can't get it using a tyre lever there is a special Rover tool which
most
mini specialists sell a version of that you can use; or
If you can't get hold of that, take a scissor-type ball joint splitter and
separate
into its components. Take the forked part and hammer it into the gap to
separate the joint and diff. A forked type ball-joint splitter will also do
this job
as long as it is one with fairly sharp forks.
3) Lever the joint completely off the diff whilst pushing the engine away
from
the joint.
4) Repeat the process on the other side.
D. Disconnect the speedo drive: located on the end of the engine on the
passenger side.
1) Check that everything (except the speedo drive) is disconnected and
that wiring etc. is tucked out of the way so it cannot snag. You can now
lift the engine up until you can get at the speedo drive (where the thick
black cable connects to the engine). As you lift, either get a helper to
make sure that everything is clear, or stop frequently and check
yourself. Note, if you left your LCB on the car check that it isn't hooked
up on the diff housing. You may need to pull the engine slightly towards
the front of the car as it goes up for clearance.
2) Once the drive is accessable, undo the knurled nut holding it to the
gearbox. You will probably need to use molegrips for this.
3) Once it is undone, raise the engine until it is clear of the front
panel,
keep checking that nothing is snagged or caught.
4) Once the bottom of the engine is higher the front panel, pull the
crane back so that the engine is away from the car. Once clear, slowly
lower the engine until it is about 12 inches from the floor. You can then
move the engine to where you want it as it will be more stable in this
lower position. Slowly lower the engine to the floor (do it fast and you
will crack the sump).
Job Done.
Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 23 September 2007 - 11:49 AM.
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