13 replies to this topic

[Steve@RetroDash]

Has anyone got a "Rokee" style dashboard fitted and if so how do the two ends fix to the car? I am trying to develop a fitting kit but am baffled so far.

Any ideas would be greatfully received


I'll chuck in some RetroDash merchandise to the most helpful poster (a nice keyring or mug etc)

Edited by Steve@RetroDash, 24 September 2007 - 05:47 PM.

[Dan]

Why are you trying to develop a fitting kit? Didn't Rokee dashes come with them?

I can help you since my Grandad was the lead veneer matcher at Rokee for many years but I'm interested to know whether you're ripping them off first. No offence intended by the way, just being careful.

[Steve@RetroDash]

No no, I have a design for a dash for minis without upper and lower rails but without glovebox openings etc. This creates a problem with reaching behind the dash for fixings. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas. I wouldn't copy a design just get inspiration or develop it for my needs.
If I copied I could get in serious trouble so it isn't worth the risk.

Thanks Dan

[Retro_10s]

would it possible to have it held in place by the screw on air vents either side?... or perhaps from underneath somehow?...

Hmmmm.

[bert998]

I have an old 70s modification bible here, kinda like a 70s max power

In that there is a guide on fitting a rokee dash board and that just uses a simple 90 degree metal bracket screwed into the side of the car, near the door aperture. This is then hidden by material which fills the gap between the dash and the door and is held by the door seal.

[Retro_10s]

cunning plan ahoy!

[Dan]

In that there is a guide on fitting a rokee dash board and that just uses a simple 90 degree metal bracket screwed into the side of the car, near the door aperture. This is then hidden by material which fills the gap between the dash and the door and is held by the door seal.

That's pretty much it. The side extensions are screwed to the center section using wing nuts and studs I seem to remember, the outer ends have small brackets fitted to the back and projecting out in front. These are screwed through to the door frame with self tappers and a thin piece of black leathercloth that is stapled along the end of the dash is glued down over the door frame and brackets and then traped under the door seal. Padding is a good idea to hide the screwheads and stop them being so obvious under the cloth. Obviously this looks best with Coopers as the top dash rail and A pillars are trimmed in the same cloth.

[Steve@RetroDash]

Yeah thats pretty much what I thought. as I don't have a glove box opening on the drivers side it is going to make life difficult. I didn't really want to have a fixing that would involve screwing into the car. Back to the drawing board then

I remember that on my spi cooper I could reach up underneath the dashboard on the drivers side but on earlier minis this seems virtually impossible. Or am I imagining my spi thing?

[bert998]

What about a bracket that clips over the lip of the door aperture?

[Steve@RetroDash]

What about a bracket that clips over the lip of the door aperture?

How do you mean? I'm not sure I follow. If possible it needs to be virtually invisible.

[bert998]

Well it would be the same as the normal 90 degree fixing except that instead of screwing into the panel it would go right up to the edge of the door lip and fold over it (would help if it is springy so it clamps in position ) This would the be hidden by the material which leads from the dash to the door edge and is sandwiched by the door seal. Totally invisible

[Dan]

It would be pretty difficult to make that hold the dash really solid I would think. What about making some form of clip that fits an existing hole in the body in that area. I can't think what the layout of holes is like there at the moment.

You aren't imagining it, later parcel trays are cut out for access to the late instrument binnacle. Early trays are solid.

[Steve@RetroDash]

ah okay. could some one take some pictures of their early mini with out a dash so I can have a look to see what I can fix to?
sorry to be a pain. no rush just if you have time (anyone)

Cheers
Steve

[mini93]

anyway to have a long threaded bracket to poke through the bulk head? would require drilling of the bulk head tho and cant imagin alot of people up for doing that