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Slipping Clutch


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#1 Purtsi

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Posted 06 October 2007 - 03:06 PM

Hey,

noticed last weekend on track day that when I was driving the main straight with 3rd gear on and 5k+ revs and shifted to fourth, the clutch started to slip. Before and after the track day I haven't noticed any slipping. Sooo, can the clutch be adjusted so that wouldn't happen again or do I need to change the clutch to get it properly working again? Thanks.

#2 robson

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 05:25 PM

it might not be totally engaging fully, if the throw out is set too far. Adjust the throw out and the release stop nuts, then if the problem persists, there is a clutch issue. Might not be a worn clutch, could be many alternatives like an oil leak causing slip.

#3 Sprocket

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 06:06 PM

Or you could well be at the limit of the clutch. I notice your engine is 1380. Do you know what torque the engine is producing. And do you know what clutch you are running? Is the clutch set up correctly?

#4 Purtsi

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 07:48 PM

Or you could well be at the limit of the clutch. I notice your engine is 1380. Do you know what torque the engine is producing. And do you know what clutch you are running? Is the clutch set up correctly?



This is what I have suspected so far. Torque numbers are 122Nm @ 3250rpm. I can't remember what clutch is used as I haven't assembled the engine myself. Early days it had a problem that the gear wouldn't engage properly (the clutch pedal was needed to hit to the floor big time to engage) and clutch was set-up after that so that the gear was easier to engage, no other problems since. Could it be now so that it have now worn out and being at the limit as you said and there fore doesn't work properly anymore?

#5 Sprocket

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Posted 07 October 2007 - 08:53 PM

with 89lbft you should have the Orange diaghragm if its a pre verto clutch, or, the turbo pressure plate if its the Verto clutch. You will get away with the turbo friction plate, but its always better to use the AP racing plate as this has a different coefficient of friction and again increases the clutch capacity with the same springs/ pressure plates as well as being good for any sort of power levels.

Preverto clutch set up is VERY important. If the clutch was not set up correctly when new and wear has taken place, this has compounded things. The most important thing on pre verto clutches is to ensure that pressure spring, when assembled, is lying flat. If its not, the clamping force is less than optimum, wear again reduces this clamping force.

If it were me and i suffered any sort of un intended clutch slip, i would be pulling it appart to find out why, especialy if there are unknown parts in there.

Hope that helps

#6 Purtsi

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Posted 08 October 2007 - 06:57 AM

with 89lbft you should have the Orange diaghragm if its a pre verto clutch, or, the turbo pressure plate if its the Verto clutch. You will get away with the turbo friction plate, but its always better to use the AP racing plate as this has a different coefficient of friction and again increases the clutch capacity with the same springs/ pressure plates as well as being good for any sort of power levels.

Preverto clutch set up is VERY important. If the clutch was not set up correctly when new and wear has taken place, this has compounded things. The most important thing on pre verto clutches is to ensure that pressure spring, when assembled, is lying flat. If its not, the clamping force is less than optimum, wear again reduces this clamping force.

If it were me and i suffered any sort of un intended clutch slip, i would be pulling it appart to find out why, especialy if there are unknown parts in there.

Hope that helps


Yes, this helps a lot. As I won't drive my mini before next spring, I should have enough time to take the clutch a part and investigate what's the problem there. Will see after that what parts I need to replace. Thanks :kiss:

#7 Purtsi

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 08:41 AM

UPDATE Finally.

So, I managed to get the clutch assembly with flywheel out of the mini (with days and hours of work dammit) and now i got some pictures for you. Check the clutch assembly pic and tell me what the h*ll has happened there?!?

Clutch plate:

Posted Image

Oily Clutch:
where did that oil get there? The crankshaft seal seems to be dry...
Posted Image

And finally the clutch assembly:

Posted Image

#8 Southy

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 11:23 AM

The crankshaft oil seal may well be dry due to the outward forces as the engine is turning over at high RPM causing the oil to be thrown outwards from the centre......from the looks on your pic the crankshaft oil seal doesnt seem to be sat correctly, the top of the seal seems to be sitting further forward than that at the bottom.

It may well just be the camera angle but this could seriously cause problems if it is, i would change the oil seal and then use the correct tool to put the seal back in OR use the old oil seal and tap that against the new one OR just put a small amount of grease around the outter edge of the new oil seal and push it in with your thumbs

#9 Purtsi

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 05:36 PM

I already got a new oil seal so I'll be using that. Thanks for the tip using grease when putting it in place >_< I'll check the old seal again in thursday when i get back to garage and see does the old seal fit correctly atm or not.

Now only thing that I'd like to get answer is that "clutch assembly middle part whatever" which is in bits 'n' pieces.




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