6 replies to this topic

[themanlegend]

I dont need any install advice or anything but need to ask about the condition of the engine I should put in....

Is it ok to put a 40-60 thousand miler in from another car or would it be better to buy a reconditioned one?

I know I can pick up a 1275 for around 60 quid at clean spares (for those of you from plymouth and know where I mean) BUT how much power would I be looking to get at the wheels compared to a reconditioned engine?

How much would a reconditioned engine cost?

Is the manifold and needle the only things I would need to change to change my stage one from the 998 I have now, to fitting it on a 1275?

Is it worth doing? I get 37 to the gallon now and although fuel economy isnt a high priority, is it worth having more power (as I only have 37 at the wheels) against the cost? Will I notice the speed difference?

Many Thanks TML

I may also fit a SW5 cam at the same time, any thoughts? Loads of questions, I apoligise!

[Jordie]

If you buy a 1275 engine and do a service it should be fine.

Only problem you have is you cannot see the bores and rings, smoke and oil leaks until you open / run the engine.

By service, i mean, new gaskets, oil, plugs, dizzy points etc etc.

I dropped a 988 into my car to replace my 850 without doing anything to it, it was from a reasonable guy tho. It needed a clutch about 5weeks later, due to it slipping....

[jimbo_edmondo]

lol, this is the very same engine is was thinkin of buying a couple of weeks ago! Decided my insurance would be too expensive tho!

[themanlegend]

I only pay 600 a year with Norwich Union, my first year driving and I have pass plus.

Did your quote go up a lot?

[998dave]

I feel bad, bought a new 998, dropped it in without changing anything, swapped my inlet and exhaust over and have had it running for the last 1.5 yrs...
Oh - and the engine only cost me £10.



Dave

[Jordie]

Excellent.

Its just dropping on em, luck/chance i suppose. I sold my 850cc engine to a guy in next town and he dismantled it and said the head, block, crank and box were all in as new condition, as if it had been rebuilt.

I am planning on dropping a 1275 in later this year, so will keep an eye on this topic.

[Purple Tom]

Is it ok to put a 40-60 thousand miler in from another car or would it be better to buy a reconditioned one?

To be perfectly honest it varies emormously from engine to engine. As Jordie says, there are things you can't see without a full strip down. Do you know what car your engine will be coming from? If its from a late 5 door Metro chances are its been owned by an 'older' person, who is probably less likely to have thrashed it, and would have kept up on servicing, oil changes etc etc. If its an MG or GTa Metro then it could have been driven hard a lot (owner taking advantage of available power), and therefore more 'worn' for its age. The A series (or A+), if looked after, can give sterling service to 100k miles or more, gearboxes are similar.

Running problems like dodgy carbs, overheating etc, can all cause fatigue problems to bores and rings, such as glazed bores, and de-tempered rings from excess heat. Its always a good plan to find out as much as possible from the donor car as you can.

BUT how much power would I be looking to get at the wheels compared to a reconditioned engine?

Again it varies hugely. I bought a standard Metro 1275 engine in June last year. I had no idea what milage it had on, or even whether it ran or not. It was mucky when I bought it, although it was complete with carb, electronic dizzy etc. I stripped the engine down as far as flywheel off, transfer gears off, and split the engine/box. The box looked great, so I fitted a centre pick-up pipe. All I did then was put a Kent 266 cam into the engine, fitted some new tappets and oil pump, and rebuilt the thing, with all new gaskets, and a repaint. I didn't touch the crank or pistons, or do anything to the gearbox at all. I dropped the engine back into the car, took it to the Showdown in July, and with no performance mods to the engine apart from the 266 cam (standard head, standard rockers, standard everything!), it ran an 18.01 sec quarter mile. In the whole time it was on the road, it didn't burn a drop of oil, and was 100% reliable. My friend estimated that coupled with an alloy inlet manifold and LCB, with 1.75" twin box exhaust it must have been making about 75bhp at the flywheel.

I guess what i'm trying to say here is that sometimes there is no difference at all. With a re-con engine you may have the peace of mind, knowing that it has been re-built, but then you also have to pay a hell of a lot more for it. A re-con engine may also only give a very slight increase power, if not the same as a 60k miler. So you have to ask is it worth getting a re-con engine.

How much would a reconditioned engine cost?

I think various companies will do a re-con unit on an exchange basis for about £500. That is only a short engine though (ie no gearbox/flywheel/transfer gear cover etc etc). I might be wrong there, but I'm sure thats what I've seen them at.

s the manifold and needle the only things I would need to change to change my stage one from the 998 I have now, to fitting it on a 1275?

You may want to consider fitting an 1.75" carb (HIF44 is the best one to use), as the 1.5" carb fitted to most 998's (or 1.25" to very early ones) will strangle even a standard 1275 really. You can pick up these carbs for about £30 onwards, in varying condition. Also an LCB manifold is much better for a 1275 than a Cooper Freeflow manifold, as is usually specified in 998 stage one kits.

Is it worth doing? I get 37 to the gallon now and although fuel economy isnt a high priority, is it worth having more power (as I only have 37 at the wheels) against the cost? Will I notice the speed difference?

I would say whole-heartedly yes. I went from a 1098 (albeit a bit of a poorly one) to a 1275, and the difference was amazing. Depending what diff ratio your engine has (3.44:1 was a common Metro ratio, Mini based 1275's vary), you will notice a difference from a standing start, and also increased acceleration from any gear at any speed. The 3.44:1 ratio can get a bit short legged at higher speeds, you will find the engine will be revving higher, but mine (3.44) would still do over 100mph, which in a Mini is plenty fast. You will notice the difference in everyway, more speed, more acceleration, more torque (ability to get out of situations quicker than you got into them), much more drivability, as it will usually bob about quite happily in third gear round country lanes, and will still be flexible in top for motorway driving. Fuel ecomony will probably drop slightly, but depending on how you drive it you will still return +30mpg easily.

may also fit a SW5 cam at the same time, any thoughts? Loads of questions, I apoligise!

No need to apologise, I asked many similar questions when I was thinking of getting a 1275! I've heard nothing but good things about the SW5, it is reputedly a very good cam for the 1275, and will allow easy driving in traffic/ at slow speeds, but will still give you that excellent punch higher up the rev range. I believe in profile terms it is somewhere slightly 'lower' than the Kent 276. But someone with personal experience of the cam will be able to advise you more closely there.

I hope that has been of some help to you!

Tom