5 replies to this topic

[Quizzy]

Hi all...sorry to introduce myself with a question but I'm desperate to help a friend.

I recently moved out to France and met a couple who were Mini enthusiasts. I have built a load of show winning Minis so this was a pleasant surprise. She owns the car mentioned in the title and has not used it for 2 years. The clutch went and apparently the guy who fixed it had to cut the flywheel off to repair it. When she got the car back, apparently it wouldnt tickover and she went to a Rover dealer over here who diagnosed the ECU......Rover went bust and she parked the car up.

To the present...I offered to try to get it running. I found the fuel pump was shot and the return pipe blocked. Now replaced/ cleared.
ECU returned to UK for repair, found faulty and repaired and installed.

Fired it up an hour ago...great, it runs.
However you have to feather the throttle to keep it about 1500 rpm or it dies on tickover after 5 seconds. Hold it above 1500 and it revs cleanly.

Have checked vacume pipes for leaks etc. but no obvious problems.

I read elsewhere that the crank sensor can get contaminated (especially if a flywheel was cut off!) and that could cause the problem. Is this serviceable from outside?

I personally think its injection related though but parts, testing gear etc is unavailable here.
Ideas please?

Thanks in anticipation.

Q

[[email protected]]

Crank sensor could be at fault, it needs removing before anything happens with the flywheel to avoid damage. it is situtaed in the flywheel housing, just under that starter motor, held in with 2 small bolts. Its a costly item to replace, but could well be the fault. Its definately worth the time to remove and inspect

[Sprocket]

Has an injection clutch been fitted? hard question to answer i supose.

In which case you will need to check. When you remove the crank sensor to have a look at it, position the engine at TDC on number one cylinder. Peer through the hole that the crank sensor locates in ( you may need an elaborate mirror and lighting system (leave that up to your expertese)). You should see that there is a larger gap in the teeth in the flywheel in the middle or almost in the middle (engine must be at TDC), If you cannot see this gap (there are two, Both at TDC 180 degrees apart) it is a strong posability the wrong clutch has been fitted.

If the crank sensor has failed, the engine wont start, and is rarely the reason for a poor running engine. It would be worth checking the ECU ground wires as this can cause alsorts of ghosting issues, not least if severe, smoking the ECU ( possible but not very common). A marginal VR signal from this sensor can be a result of metal partical build up on the tip of the sensor. If the sensor is bent, its a sign of the flywheel being removed when the sensor is still in place. Gently straighten it, it shouldnt be a problem. Second hand ones are available on Ebay for far less than a new one, but dont overlook Motor factors, the sensors can be bought from these usualy at a much reduced cost compared to the likes of Minispares ( Not trying to do you out of business Simon, but when they cost that much, im surprised you shift them at all?? Especialy the MPi cam sensor!)

If this is fine, then the problem lies withing other system sensors or the tune of the system itself. Unfortunately the best and most succesfull method of fixing the fault is to have a diagnostic connected. You can fix it without one but it can take a long long time and is a matter of replacing things one by one which i hate doing as it costs.

Make sure all the vac pipes are connected, in good order.

There is also the possability of a mechanicl problem such as a bent valve. This would cause the manifold vacuum to be abnormaly high, the ECU will get the wrong signal and the engine can be hard to start and will run badly at idle and even stall. A compression test should how this up.

Dont overlook the general maintenance items such as plugs, leads, dizy cap, rotor arm, air filter and fuel filters

It may just need the stepper motor setting up, and that does need the diagnostic, unless you know what you are looking at.

[Quizzy]

Thanks for your time in replying Sprocket.
Sorry its been a while but the owner took the car to a local ex Rover dealer who claimed to have the diagnostics.
Because the car had a temporary filler cap on it they apparently immediately decided to remove the tank and check for corrosion....Well there wasnt any because I had cleaned it while replacing the fuel fecking pump! For this they charged 270 euros. It would appear that they dont have a working diagnostic at all. Their last shot was to offer her the equivalent of £2000 for the car, which is mint and worth at least double.(running!)

So its back on my drive.

There is one more piece to the jigsaw..
Its running VERY rich, the plugs are very sooty each time they come out.
With that knowledge any more ideas?

by the way the sensor was straight and clean and the flywheel seems correct.

Ta

[duncancallum]

if its running rich it could be either your lamba sensor or your temp sensor

both of these control the mixture

[dickster]

Hi, I work in a garage that specialises in automotive electrics and we see loads of minis, interesting you mention the clutch and flywheel, despite what some people might say the clutches (think its mainly the clutch cover not sure if the plate or bearing are also different but do all three when replacing) and flywheel are different between the SPi and the MPi. The garage I work for is also the MG Rover Parts agents so we have access to genuine parts and their micro-fisches and not only are the micro-fisches rubbish but they don't tell you much or it could be incorrect information provided by garage/parts catalogue/storeman. They will fit either car its just the timing reference points are different between the two. the same applies for the flywheel.
Couldn't guarantee thats your problem but I've seen it happen a few times and its the last thing anyone expects.

Edited by dickster, 09 December 2007 - 10:56 AM.