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Coil Test


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#1 D3nch

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 02:30 PM

I tested the new leads i got by putting them to the block, via a screw driver, and no spark...

I did the same with the lead from the coil to the distributor, no spark.

1. Have i done this correctly?

2. Does this mean my coil is broken?

thanks

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#2 Ethel

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 02:41 PM

Not unless you were turning the engine over with the points and LT wires correctly fitted.

#3 D3nch

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 02:45 PM

correctly fitted you say...

I have just fitted new points and dizzy and condenser, set them to the 0.014mm..

Is that the sort of correctness ur talking about or is there more?

#4 D3nch

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 02:46 PM

also, whilts im looking at new coils,

How come some are £45 when others are £16?

Obviously i know its like all things, but is there much more to be gained from a £45 to a £16?

Thanks for ur helps

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#5 Ethel

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 02:57 PM

lol, I answered this on the other thread you deleted this question from >_<


+ve from ignition switch to +ve terminla on the coil.

-ve terminal of coil running to the points (set at 14thou or 0.4mm) the other end of the points lead has the condenser on it and there's a little earth wire under the condenser's mounting screw. If it's all correct you should she the points spark as you crank the engine.

#6 D3nch

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 04:41 PM

Ok...

I have just taken off the coil, cleaned up all the connections. re fitted. points are NOT sparking. Checked that the little condencer and cable arent earthing out on the inccorect parts of the points, they are fine...

any other checks before we deem the coil rogered?


for the purpose of testing, would a coil off my 998 be ok?

forgot to mention my current car is 1275.

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Edited by D3nch, 16 November 2007 - 04:42 PM.


#7 dklawson

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 08:52 PM

Rather than go all wordy on you, please download and read over:
http://home.mindspri...tsIgnitions.pdf

You won't get sparks from anything until you close, then OPEN the points (or otherwise give the coil a path to ground, then remove that path). If you simply power the coil... it doesn't make a spark or high-voltage. The spark only happens when you charge the coil then open the points.

#8 D3nch

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Posted 19 November 2007 - 10:46 AM

Got a Spark Last Night...

Bi-passed the 2 wires from (-) on coil to Points, by using another wire and it sparked.

I obviously have a fault between the coil and points then...

Am i right in thinking that the 2nd wire off of the (-) on the coil goes to the Tachometer?

If so could this be grounding some where stopping the power getting to the points?

#9 dklawson

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Posted 19 November 2007 - 01:16 PM

If the second wire is white/black... then it most likely is going off to the tachometer. However, I've also seen other items connected to coil (-) like an additional filter capacitor to reduce ignition noise.

Could your tach be at fault? It's possible. My father-in-law vintage races and we traced a no-start problem on his race car back to an internal short of his tachometer. The gauge works fine... just don't let its case touch the car's chassis... if you do, the engine won't fire.

Anyway, I'm glad you got the engine to spark last night.




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