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Gear Selector Rod Oil Seal


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#1 nicksuth

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 09:55 PM

Help - I have just changed the oil seal on the gearbox selector rod and its still leaking oil. When I changed it I couldn't get the alloy spacer out to replace with the new one (with the O ring), any ideas how to remove it?
Also, do I have to drain the oil to change this seal (for the second time) or can you get away with not?
Any tips on fitting the seal, the manual recomends a bit of tape around the rod but I don't see how that will help (or am i being thick?)
[attachment=45887:Oil_Seal_Kit.JPG]

#2 ginigwunkle

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 09:56 PM

ive just done this on a gearbox out of the car and its a real bugger,

the magazine did a article on this(not sure which one) says it takes 5 min, yeah rite.

#3 taffy1967

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:13 PM

The alloy spacer doesn't need replacing, because the kit only includes it for earlier models that don't already have one fitted. I doubt you could get it out without stripping the box anyway so just leave it be.

If you're still having oil leaking problems, then I've heard some recommend fitting 2 seals instead.

#4 jayare

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:43 PM

If the alloy spacer is in there, you won't get 2 seals in - the 2 seal trick works if you don't have the spacer easily available. Did the seal go in very easily? My gearbox seems to have either worn or sustained damage which makes the seal quite a loose fit in the bore, consequently it leaked and moved about, so I have now used some gasket sealant round the outside of the seal when fitting it, which seems to have done the trick *touches wood!*

JR

#5 nicksuth

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 02:13 PM

Okay, here we go again. Got the seal out and from the looks of it, the only way to remove the spacer/O ring would be to destroy it but I guess thats a bit dodgy as may damage housing etc.?
So, I'll have a coffee and a fag and then try your trick with some gasket sealant and see if that does the trick until we rebuild the gearbox?
Who ever designed this area wants shooting, every way you try to work around here theres something in the way, diff housing, exhaust bracket, LCB, etc. etc.

#6 Ethel

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 03:33 PM

Who ever designed this area wants shooting, every way you try to work around here theres something in the way, diff housing, exhaust bracket, LCB, etc. etc.


Lol, Minis are only 'ickle, they had to put all those bits somewhere.

Have a really close look at the selector shaft too, make sure it's not scored or dinted where the seal sits. Putting tape round the shaft is intended to stop it from cutting the lip of the seal when you fit it over the end.

#7 nicksuth

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 06:51 PM

It looks like the gasket sealant has done the job, fingers crossed! - cheers JR.
We'll see how a looks after a bit of a run out tomorrow? (need to start my Christmas shopping!!!!)
Selector shaft is okay but bore is a little scabbie, looks like the previous owners had a good dig around with a screwdriver to get an earlier seal out?

#8 Dusky

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 08:10 PM

How did you applied the sealant? Was it over the seal? Or without the seal in?



#9 minimender

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 08:24 PM

2 seal sizes if I remember right



#10 tiger99

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 09:12 PM

No, only one size of seal was ever used, part number AHU1672.



#11 Dusky

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 09:13 PM

2 seal sizes if I remember right

?

Was talking about the silicons he used..



#12 tiger99

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 12:56 AM

In that case, what he said does not make any sense!

 

Sealant should never be needed, but if the bore in the casting has been slightly damaged I can see that it may be useful around the outside ONLY of the seal. If it gets into the bore of the seal, or between lip and body, it is far more likely to cause leaks than prevent them.

 

As to removing the aluminium bush, there is just about enough room to carefully drill into it and use a couple of self-tapping screws, or tap it maybe M3, so that there is something to grip and pull it. However, it needs an amount of skill, patience and confidence which many of us may not have (not sure I would do it myself now!), and is a lot easier if the diff casing is removed from the car, which is just possible without lifting the engine, if you are very careful and patient. I am thinking that the bush may be worn, which is causing the problem. Ali is not the best material for this, probably chosen for low cost and ease of machining, and anyone with access to a lathe could make one from a better material, such as bronze or brass.



#13 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 08:34 AM

I can add a little to the story above...

 

Nick's gearbox was rebuilt later on.

 

The silicon trick will work for a while, but will eventually leak again... Remove the old seal, oil the shaft and then run a ring of RTV around the shaft in the diff cover... put in a new seal and let the silicon go off...

 

Yes it's a bodge, but as Tiger has pointed out, the aluminium support  is a ******* to get out with the diff cover attached to the gearbox.



#14 A-Cell

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 09:17 AM

Just to confirm changing support bush is possible in situ in the car. I have done 2 removals and replacements of aluminium support bush. One came out easily with a pick. The other required more effort! I drilled a hole with a 1/8 drill and inserted a self tapper, then pulled it out with pliers. Good clean with spray can of brake/clutch cleaner. Both leak free afterwards.

#15 Mr Joshua

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 12:48 PM

Nearly six and a half years that's got to be a record for thread Resurrection.




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