Thanks for the quick reply, ive not noticed a red light on the dash... ever. 
besides the flashing immobiliser light.
I have had the connectors off the alternator and checked for corrosion, they are all in quite good condition, ive checked the voltage going thru the small connector (field, i think) upon starting the engine and at idle its 0.4v, rising to 0.8v whilst i rev and then jumping to 13.7-14v when alternator kicks into life.
I too suspected a bad connection, do you know where the small cable goes too so i can check the other end?
As mentioned above... the
RED charge warning lamp is an important part of this circuit and it MUST work or the alternator won't work properly. Here's what should happen:
1) Turn on the ignition key to the "ON" position but do not start the engine. The warning light should be on.
2) Start the engine. When the alternator starts making electricity the warning light should go out.
The small wire on the alternator is connected to the filed coils inside the alternator and the wire is coming FROM the charge warning light on the dash.
The other side of the warning light is connected to the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to the "ON" position, power should flow from the ignition switch, through the warning lamp, to the field coils and on to ground/earth.
This energizes the alternator field coils AND causes the warning lamp to glow.
When the alternator starts making electricity (after you start the engine) it SELF ENERGIZES the field coils. This brings the small alternator terminal up to full system voltage.
Since both sides of the warning light are now at the same voltage... the warning light will go off.
If you are NOT seeing the warning light when you start the engine, try the following test. During these tests DO NOT start the engine, just turn the key to the on or run position.
1) Pull the plug off the alternator and place one volt meter probe in the small wire's female connector in the harness plug
2) Switch the ignition on and hold the other meter probe to a good ground/earth point.
You should see battery voltage on this wire. If you don't... start by replacing the bulb and repeating your test. If replacing the bulb does not allow you to find battery voltage on the small wire, use your wiring diagram to determine which ignition switch terminal powers the charge warning light circuit and make sure you have voltage there. In short, trace the wire back from the alternator plug to the switch looking for where you loose voltage.
IF you found battery voltage on the plug at the conclusion of step #2 above... take your alternator in for testing.
I'm not sure how blipping the throttle and getting the RPM up to 5-6K fools the electronics, but the charge light needs to be ON prior to starting the engine if you hope to start your car. by the way, DO NOT use an LED for the charge warning system light. LEDs won't allow enough current to flow for the alternator field coils to energize. Use whatever standard incandescent bulb was used in your car.
