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Are My Doors Ready For The Bin Or


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#16 Ethel

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 08:13 PM

strange one pete, all the factory fit doors ive reskinned were brazed along the top.
the top frame were it joins the main frame were welded but were the outer skin joins the top frame were brazed.


Well all the ones I've done have been welded! do you mean the weld that runs down the side of the skin where it's folded against the side of the frame?
When you say brazed, do you mean the type of stuff that looks like brass? Never done brazing myself.


If they were fibreglass they'd be even easier to repair. Braze is a brass, bronze or Silver Alloy depending on application.
As has been pointed out it's similar to solder and needs a decent contact area (lap joint) to be effective. I suspect your door frame has fatigue fractured but would certainly be repairable; either by reinforcing the split with a patch on the inside or, if there isn't space between the frame and the glass seal, cutting out a section to butt weld in a repair strip across the join - a bit like a carpentry joint.

#17 Dazza IOW

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:31 PM

HI im sure you will be ok at mig welding it is so easy.

#18 blue redtop

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Posted 24 January 2008 - 08:28 PM

just come across this and ive got to say dont braize a door. 2 reasons .

1, it costs 1000's times more than a mig.
2,the constant heat from it will twist the metal.

if you mig weld it it will take about 5 sec's of heat and then you can cool it down. braizing it will take 4 times as long and the door will have more heat on it for a longer period of time and will twist the metal.
i braize every day (its my job).

mig weld it.

#19 midridge2

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Posted 24 January 2008 - 09:23 PM

the guy has a choice of doing it the way he feels happy with and with the tools he has, i have brazed hundreds of mini door skins and never had a one distort with the heat.
you need about 1inch of brazing rod, a damp cloth and it takes about 10 seconds per side.
the skin top has a double bend and minimum heat is used so why should it distort?





this is my opinion and will differ from others.

#20 blue redtop

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Posted 24 January 2008 - 10:40 PM

i was just putting my point across and giving advice on what i know.yes its up to the person to chose what they want to do as its there door.

my advice is dont braize it because with braize there is no such thing as minimal heat (you will know this if you have repaired 100's of mini doors).

i braize almost all day 5 days a week and i can tell you that u need lots and lots of heat to melt the braize to make it run.
and a powerful strong flame.

thats just my expert advice as im a fully qualified skilled metal worker working on copper, nickle , yellow brass , red brass ,silver and gold.

but hay feel free to do as you wish.

hope you get it sorted :unsure: ;D

edit. you must have fire proof hands with 1 inch of rod. :(

Edited by blue redtop, 24 January 2008 - 10:43 PM.


#21 midridge2

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Posted 25 January 2008 - 02:38 AM

why did rover etc braze the door skins on if the heat distorts the door???
a inch of rod is all it takes but as a skilled metal worker you would of cause know if you only have a short bit of rod left you can hold it with a pair of pliers.
just my experiance of nearly 40 years as a panel beater.

#22 James182

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 05:46 PM

wow this dude was just asking if he could repair his door...but the old..."my ones bigger than yours" argument has to come into play.

#23 midridge2

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 07:10 PM

lol my tool box is bigger than yours.

good job you were not around in 1919 or the second world war might have started 20 years sooner.

is this going to turn into another im a 16 year old spotty faced mechanic and know more than you, posting??





this is my opinion and no way representing the opinion of tmf mods. lol

#24 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 07:18 PM

I think the only way to solve this is with a "braze off". Braze after the sound of my whistle!




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