omg quite a lot for a first time! since i took one engine out on sat and another out on mon I'll comment on no.1 and leave some for everyone else!
Obviously tag everything as you disconnect all the leads etc, also if you've a digital camera use it to take pics at every stage, this will make reassembly a lot easier.
when you remove fuel line from pump have something handy to stop fuel spilling out, a chopstick works quite well!!!
On a clubman it helps to take the dizzy cap off and to loosen the alternator bolts and swing it towards the block. On a roundnose there's even less room but its been a few months since ive done this on a roundnose so maybe someone else can advise!
Getting the roll pin out of the gear linkage can be tricky, my method is to engage 1st gear (obviously do that BEFORE removing the selector box steady rod) and hit the pin nearest the engine (there are 2, i leave the one furthest from the engine alone) in the directions FROM n/s wheel TO o/s steering wheel if that makes sense, ie to the o/s and upwards. This works but my roll pin punch catches on the diff case a bit, there may be a better way. Mini shops sell the right roll pin you'll need and to do it this way you may need to move the n/s axle stand back a bit (i.e supporting the front subframe from the back rather than from the flat in the middle on this side) to get a good swing. and it'll need a good whack!
It makes life easier later on if you can remove the inner CV boots without just cutting them open , although cutting them open is the quick way. Just undo the top balljoint and trackrod end on each side and the inner joints will be out of the way. (and this afternoon im going hunting for one of the balls inside which has rolled away and hidden somewhere!!)
Engine mounts are a ******* to remove, but can be done with patience, and it helps to have some help
When theyre out weld on captive nuts because otherwise bolting em back in is 10 times worse!!
Leave the speedo cable until the engine is in the air, but dont forget to disconnect it from the gearbox in all the engine-lifting excitement!
I lift engines by passing a strong rope twice around it, the ribs in the gearbox casing stop it slipping. Make sure the rope's not gonna squeeze anything when under tension and doesnt catch on exhaust studs, spark plugs etc. When lifting the main thing to watch out for is the diff casing which will catch on the rear of the subframe. Obviously when using a crane follow the safety blah blah blah, engines are heavy. Also try to set up the crane so that it lifts the engine straight upwards, if you use say just the top half of the crane's travel because it pivots in a circle you will find the engine moves towards the front of teh car when you want it to go straight up (hope I've expressed this so that it makes sense!)
THats all i can think of for now. just follow haynes or whatever for the rest, and take your time. Haynes says it takes 4 and a half hours or less.
good luck!! altho seriously this is not a first time job!!!
