3 replies to this topic

[Jackabee]

Hi,

Right I am starting to strip out my interior a little bit next week and wanted a bit of advice - I will only be taking the carpets out for now and am wanting to use moisture traps to really dry it out properly. Firstly is this a good idea? Then I was going to paint the floors in black hammerite to prevent any further rust - there is a little bit of surface oxidisation but nothing major at all! Then I am fitting an underlay and my new carpet which I got for Christmas

So any how-to advice would be much appreciated any tips that I can learn from your own experience

AND I need a carpet glue but is there a particularly good one and do I use it on both the underlay and the actual carpet?

Thanks in advance,

J

[ImagoX]

Hi,

Right I am starting to strip out my interior a little bit next week and wanted a bit of advice - I will only be taking the carpets out for now and am wanting to use moisture traps to really dry it out properly. Firstly is this a good idea? Then I was going to paint the floors in black hammerite to prevent any further rust - there is a little bit of surface oxidisation but nothing major at all! Then I am fitting an underlay and my new carpet which I got for Christmas

So any how-to advice would be much appreciated any tips that I can learn from your own experience

AND I need a carpet glue but is there a particularly good one and do I use it on both the underlay and the actual carpet?

Thanks in advance,

J

Here in the USA, this is about the best stuff you can use is 3m-brand "High Strength 90" spray adhesive.

That said, most properly-fitting carpet out there should ONLY need to be glued on those areas that are vertical, namely the wheel well pieces, the trim pieces under the door openings and the piece that sits up high against the front firewall. The main floor pan pieces should not need glue, as they are held in by friction as well as by the seat belt bolts and the frame that holds the shifter covering. This way, they can be removed for drying if needed. If you have some trouble spots (around the e-brake, for example), you can use some heavy-duty Velcro material to affix any loose flaps.

[yorkshirechris]

If there's water or excessive damp in the footwells I'd investigate further and check for any leaks first before you go replacing any carpets.

I'm in the process of doing the same in my mini, although slightly different. Firstly I took up the carpets (but didn't actually remove them, just folded them up one footwell at a time) and inspected the floorpans. As with you there was slight surface rust but nothing major. So I sanded off all the surface rust to bare metal... and painted over it with Black Hammerite.

I did this on all the floors including the boot floor. I then painted over it with some Poly paint which nearly matches the body colour just to make it look nicer (and give it a little more protection) but if you want to leave it black then the Hammerite will do fine. I did that on my old mini

I'm going to use normal carpet underlay on my new carpet too. Got it from a local carpet warehouse today, they had some odds and ends, managed to get enough to put three layers of underlay in the whole car for £25 it sounds a lot, but it is only about 1cm think and the standard sound deadening stuff is a lot thicker I believe.

I plan to just glue the underlay to the floor with a normal carpet adhesive (aerosol form) and to the other layers of underlay. The new carpet I have has got quite a "grippy" back so should sit on top of the underlay nicely.

I will be updating my project page (blue link in my signature) as I fit it...

[mike49]

yeah, if theres a leak, absorbing it will only help rot it out more... solve the problem before you put in the carpet, or even at the very very least, allow the water to escape quickly for the time being