52 replies to this topic

[yorkshirechris]

I have been using the more expensive variety together with the more expensive 'pro' criming pliers and buying in large numbers myself to keep the cost reasonable, but no disrespect to yorkshirechris, as I really admire his efforts to provide a service by buying in bulk and keeping prices down for fellow mini owners!

No problem.. best way to do it if you know you'll be using a lot of them.
Good luck with it all, tis quite a daunting task!

[Jupitus]

OK - here I am again, just checking stuff - the white/red wire from ignition switch to solenoid doesn't draw much current, right? It's the heavy white that drives the ignition on functions that needs a higher rated wire.... so 11 amp thinwall white/red is fine to connect ignition switch to solenoid.... true? Thanks!

[Dan]

Depends on the solenoid. The remote solenoid doesn't draw much on the trigger wire but the pre-engaged type draws a fair whack due mainly to the strength of the pulse needed to shift the gears. When the pre-engaged starter was added to the wiring they added a relay to protect the starter switch from it. The total load on the starter switch can be quite high during start when using this solenoid so a relay is a good idea. 11 amps is probably more than enough rating as far as cable sizing goes but the switch could use some relay protection.

[Jupitus]

Righto - bit of back and forth, but that bussed fusebox is simply too large for Huey

I have decided to use an original fusebox for lower ampage stuff and inline, mountable, waterproof fuses for high current apps such as headlights, spotlights and air horn.... these I am working on.

Next question, might be a bit silly, but this IS a pre-engaged starter, yes? Has anyone got a small schematic of the wiring on this? I found a relay on the inner wing which takes the starter ignition signal, but I am not sure what each of the connections on that solenoid is for...

[Jupitus]

Oh... and with a pre-engaged where the solenoid is on the starter, is there still a battery post on the inner wing where the older solenoids sit, please?

[Dan]

Yes that is a pre-engaged starter. There are two studs, a large one and a smaller one. The smaller one should already be connected to the starter motor so just ignore it! The large stud is for the battery lead and main supply cables of the car. In your photo you can see where the other cables fit, the brown/red is the cranking trigger from the starter relay. The white/yellow is the ballast cranking bypass to the coil. There is no other battery stud needed but you can always fit an isolated stud somewhere if it is easier to join all your supply wires off the engine and simply run a starter cable from there to the solenoid.

[Jupitus]

Thanks Dan!

[Jupitus]

Well - some good progress made and it's taking shape, but pants! I just had a nasty moment when I realised Huey has an immobiliser!! Here's a pic of it - as far as I can see, though, all of the wiring I have is standard... does the immobiliser wire in upstream of the main plug connector that connectors ignition to the loom? Can someone give me an idea of the general wiring principle this would use? It's mounted under the dash on the drivers side...

[Teapot]

I can't help with the details since the immobiliser was in place before I got the car and I had to point the camera under the dash and hope for the best to get this shot. But I can try for some more pictures if it would help or go and stick my head in a bucket under the dash and see what wires go where? All I can add is the device activates the ignition from a push-in key on the steering column and you have about 30 secs to start the car before it switches the ignition off again.

[Jupitus]

Thanks Mr H! I'm pretty sure it isn't within the main loom which I have, and I therefore reckon it's wired from the switch part rather than beyond the connector to the main loom

We do have power to the fusebox, a series of relays for horn, starter, inner and outer spots all ready, sidelights, headlights (inc. inline fusing), brake lights, fog light, indicators (I have the connectors to attach to your repeater looms), fuel gauge all done... I'll get some pictures off the camera today and send an update!

Edited by Jupitus, 09 March 2008 - 11:35 AM.

[Teapot]

OK, I'll mosey down to the lockup and see what I can discover.

Just to check: is there an additional circuit for the new hi-level brake light, presumably accompanying the interior light circuit to the back of the cab?

And circuits to both horns - the original and the airhorns with compressor in the engine bay, switched from the steering column and operated from the r/h stalk?

[Jupitus]

OK, I'll mosey down to the lockup and see what I can discover.

Just to check: is there an additional circuit for the new hi-level brake light, presumably accompanying the interior light circuit to the back of the cab?

And circuits to both horns - the original and the airhorns with compressor in the engine bay, switched from the steering column and operated from the r/h stalk?

Thanks sir!

The high level brake light : I am providing 2 female bullet connnectors at the same spot as the interior light, one for power, one for earth. I will also send appropriate male bullets and my super duper bullet crimp and closing tools on loan to help with the fitting

The horns: horn push power from the stalk feeds your switch (if you can confirm the terminalks required on the switch that would be good). Output 1 from your switch feeds standard horn on standard PU/BK wire. Output 2 from your switch goes to a bulkhead mounted relay (you will have 4 relays to mount in the area where your washer pump sits - I checked pictures you sent carefully) on a standard PU/BK wire, output from relay is on high ampage PU/BK wire and will terminate in the general behind the number plate area for wiring to the airhorn. Again, if you can confirm the required terminals for the airhorn that would be good.

Last thing that would help is to be certain if you have a ballasted coil or 12v? I have a ballast wire in the loom and spliced to standard wire, but it's not 100% certian for me. If you can get the coil model details or similar I can confirm that it definitely is ballasted (I am 95% certain of this)...

Thanks Mr Teapot!

[Jupitus]

Oooo got a final one - where is your fuel pump mounted?

[Teapot]

I've taken more pix of the immobiliser and environs to see if you can glean any clues. Email on the way.

Thanks for the offer of the crimper but we're ok this end.

The horns: the two-way switch terminals are, er ... ordinary, er... dunno. You have a pic of the switch somewhere. Shall we say spades?

output from relay is on high ampage PU/BK wire and will terminate in the general behind the number plate area for wiring to the airhorn.

Won't the wire from the relay go to the compressor, also in the engine bay? Pic being emailed, showing terminals.

Ballasted coil, 100% deffo. Bosch. It says so. NB: I've now borrowed a Haynes Metro manual to refer to electrics as required.

The fuel pump is just in front of the fuel tank. Pic also being emailed.

*Pix now sent *

Edited by Teapot, 09 March 2008 - 02:51 PM.

[Jupitus]

Thanks Teapot - dropped you a reply.

For the ballast experts out there, I have the ballast pink wire from Huey... or what is left of it... and my multimeter shows a resistance of 1.5 ohms. Is that length of cable still suitable to use, or do I need a longer length and hence higher resistance please? Thanks!