595 replies to this topic

[JetBLICK]

Possibly.. but if its a steel crank anyway, how come it has 's' journals? ... its not like a 1430.. where the extra stroke is gained by offset grinding the journals to 's' size.

good luck getting it sorted tho, johns a decent chap i'm sure he'll sort something out.

[Oldskoolbaby]

Yeah, its a steel billet crank but I'm pretty sure it still uses the S size shells. I only bought it Monday and its sitting with the rest of my parts at Morspeed ready to pick up next saturday.

[Sprocket]

I only bought it Monday and its sitting with the rest of my parts at Morspeed ready to pick up next saturday.

I hope you do get your gear next saturday

Interesting Build

what have you considered for the clutch?

[Oldskoolbaby]

The clutch is the big issue. Im thinking of a double grey and paddle clutch but ive heard knightmares about thrust bearing life and how hard they are to use. To solve the issue of physically using the double grey, I might use a remote servo connected to the clutch instead of the brakes. Failing that, I might have to look at getting some sort of twin plate system developed. Im sure there will be a way.

[Sprocket]

Twin plate IMHO, is the way to go Grey cover and two AP racing organic plates. People have said that it is too heavy for the sychros, but have you ever felt the weight of just one paddle plate? I dont thibk there is much in it except for the load capebilities

[Oldskoolbaby]

Twin plate IMHO, is the way to go Grey cover and two AP racing organic plates. People have said that it is too heavy for the sychros, but have you ever felt the weight of just one paddle plate? I dont thibk there is much in it except for the load capebilities

The syncros wont be an issue though because ill be using a dogbox. A syncro wont last five minutes under this much grunt. Ive got a 700 quid JKD syncro box here thats rendered useless now im going this far lol I haven't seen anyone use a twin plate setup yet but it would be helpfull if someone has.

Edited by Oldskoolbaby, 07 September 2008 - 11:11 PM.

[Sprocket]

http://www.turbomini...p...&tid=194321

http://www.minimod.info/mods.html

[Oldskoolbaby]

That twin plate set up looks very good indeed. The bloke is obviously very clever who thought of it. I'd love to know what parts and modification are needed for it. With double the friction area even my motor wouldn't have clutch slip. The box would start shreading teeth before it did. Im going to look alot more in to this. If anybody else has more info like this, it would be really helpfull

[Oldskoolbaby]

Went to Morspeed today and came back with more than I expected, but at the same time spent alot more money than expected. Drove home with a Quaife dogbox kit on my lap so my gearbox issue is now solved thank god. Now its just a case of getting one of these twin plate clutches fabricated and put together and seeing how if I can get a pair of driveshafts to take the power ill be throwing at them. I have thought of a way though. I was thinking of milling my shafts down by a mm or so, so that they are perfectly smooth and straight. Then I could put sleeves with exactlt the same internal diameter as the external diameter of the shaftes over the top to make them thicker. To do it, I'd freeze the shafts and heat the sleeves so when they reach the same temp as each other they will be practically welded to each other.

Ill get some pics up soon of my 86mm/1480cc EN40B billet cank and the rest of the motor as soon as i get the chance

Edited by Oldskoolbaby, 13 September 2008 - 08:46 PM.

[mini13]

Oldskool,

you really need to have a dig around on turbo minis for some old posts on clutches and thrust bearings.

also dig up my 7 porter progress thread, may be some interesting thoughts in there.

[Oldskoolbaby]

Well Ive just signed up to Turbomini's so I might put up a few posts now lol.

As for the clutch, I've already kicked off the development on the twin plate set up by buying 2 AP Racing rally/race plates from stanford hall this afternoon and a set of 1:1 straight cut drops to attach them too. Just need to find the lightest flywheel and backplate combo i can find to reduce this inertia problem as much as possible. If im really honest, id much prefere to give the box some grief rather than the 1500 quid crank every gearchange. And now that ive got a Quaife "slick shift" dog box or what ever they are called, the syncro issue is now no more I think. After all, ill be using the clutch in the gearchanges and these gearsets are designed to be used with out the use of a clutch in racing condition so it sould beable to cope with the inertia.......I think!! lol

Thanks for all your comments by the way, good or bad. The bad ones just as much as the good as it really makes me think about how to solve certain issues that could arise through this build.


Thanks