
Quick Question - Hub Nut Trick?
#1
Posted 28 February 2008 - 04:15 PM
any quick tips for getting this off without reattaching calliper?
sorry and thanks
#2
Posted 28 February 2008 - 04:16 PM


#3
Posted 28 February 2008 - 04:32 PM
#4
Posted 28 February 2008 - 04:37 PM
#5
Posted 28 February 2008 - 04:41 PM
maybe drop it off stands to get the nut undone of put caliper back on.
#6
Posted 28 February 2008 - 05:09 PM
#7
Posted 28 February 2008 - 05:16 PM

#8
Posted 28 February 2008 - 05:18 PM
#9
Posted 28 February 2008 - 06:43 PM
In the past I have used a bar between the wheel studs but have found that this can caus the studs to break when they are retightened.
#10
Posted 28 February 2008 - 06:46 PM
#11
Posted 28 February 2008 - 08:21 PM
#12
Posted 28 February 2008 - 11:41 PM
I'd put a wheel on and lower it.
In the past I have used a bar between the wheel studs but have found that this can caus the studs to break when they are retightened.
#13
Posted 29 February 2008 - 12:44 PM
I second this, I had a stud bend and had to replace it. you would have had to take the wheels off to remove the split pin anyway, save yourself any more damage to anything else and put the caliper and wheel back on. It may be quicker in the long run.
I'd put a wheel on and lower it.
In the past I have used a bar between the wheel studs but have found that this can caus the studs to break when they are retightened.
Had a major problem with mine as I had the hub off the car. As far as I'm aware, the hub nuts are notoriously hard to get off anyway.
The Haynes manual shows a useful tool you can make easily, two flat peices of steel bar (B&Q do it) one short one long, drilled at one end to match studs and short piece bolted to long on to make a Y shape (or more acuratly a K with the bottom leg removed!). You then put that on the studs and put the nuts back on. Then its much the same as what everyone else says about it bearing out against the floor as you try to undo the nut. Less chance of damaging the threads like this.
I still couldn't free mine, so I drilled down through the thick section of the castle nut and twonked it with a chisel down through the outer most edge of the drilled hole to make a groove and then with the chisel in the groove in the direction it should come off to break/rotate it - with a bit of practice (ie one side) it was a five minute job. Down side is you need new nuts - mine were £12 a set which included the pin and the thrust washer thing for both sides - from mini speed.
Good luck!
#14
Posted 02 March 2008 - 05:27 PM
I was able to stand on the spanner with both feet and jiggle up and down with no luck.
will have to source a breaker bar.
thanks
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