2 replies to this topic

[acmetraveller]

Hiya all.
Just about to change the fuel pump on the mini as no fuel is getting through, has currently got an electric pump on it (we were told when we bought the car). however its a job Ive never done before and cant find the haynes anywhere!

Ive found my haynes for the 68 that im using for my 68 traveller, and in there it says to jack up the back end and ........... well etc, etc.

Is this still the case and are the fuel pumps easy to change from and electric to a standard manual one?

cheers guys & gals

John & Nicky

[dklawson]

The original electric SU pump mounts on the rear subframe underneath the LH fuel tank. There is a loop of fuel hose going into the pump and another coming out going to the metal tubing that carries the fuel to the front of the car. Some SU pumps have a plastic vent tube connected to their body. This passes through the rear budlkhead (kick panel) below the back seat. This vent was ducted into the car so it wouldn't pick up road debris.

Changing the electric pump is only complicated by the fact that you don't want fuel spilling all over you. You'll want the tank nearly empty. Of course, you can siphon most the fuel out into cans or pails for this task.

To fit a mechanical pump instead should be possible but with the engine in place it won't be fun. The pump is on the back side of the engine block. If the car originally had a mechanical pump then the tubing should be "about right" to put the new mechanical pump back in place. I think you'll just need the patience of Job to do it. Of course, at the other end of the car, you should still drain the tank, remove the old electric pump and use a continuous length of fuel hose to bridge the gap where the pump used to be. Strictly speaking... this may not be necessary if the old pump's valves are working or stuck open. You just don't want a possible leak path and you don't want to make the new mechanical pump work harder on the suction stroke. So removing the old electrical pump is probably best.

While you have the fuel system apart, this would be a good time to replace any flexible fuel hose you can access. This will catch failures before they happen and you'll have the fuel system drained anyway. by the way, fitting the electric pump is probably easier than retro-fitting the mechanical one. Given the choice I'd stick with the electric one since you already have the wiring in place.

EDIT:
by the way, I completely failed to mention that you should troubleshoot your fuel delivery problem before buying a new pump (mechanical or electric). The SU electric pump uses points and periodically the points inside (under the black Bakelite cover) need to be dressed with sandpaper to restore operation. If the pump is making pumping noises but no fuel is reaching the carbs, this could also be the sign of something like plugged filters or plugged/stuck float valves in the carb(s). If you don't take the time to insure it's really the pump that's at fault, you could end up with a nice new pump that still isn't getting fuel into the float bowls.

Edited by dklawson, 29 March 2008 - 08:40 PM.

[acmetraveller]

The original electric SU pump mounts on the rear subframe underneath the LH fuel tank. There is a loop of fuel hose going into the pump and another coming out going to the metal tubing that carries the fuel to the front of the car. Some SU pumps have a plastic vent tube connected to their body. This passes through the rear budlkhead (kick panel) below the back seat. This vent was ducted into the car so it wouldn't pick up road debris.

Changing the electric pump is only complicated by the fact that you don't want fuel spilling all over you. You'll want the tank nearly empty. Of course, you can siphon most the fuel out into cans or pails for this task.

To fit a mechanical pump instead should be possible but with the engine in place it won't be fun. The pump is on the back side of the engine block. If the car originally had a mechanical pump then the tubing should be "about right" to put the new mechanical pump back in place. I think you'll just need the patience of Job to do it. Of course, at the other end of the car, you should still drain the tank, remove the old electric pump and use a continuous length of fuel hose to bridge the gap where the pump used to be. Strictly speaking... this may not be necessary if the old pump's valves are working or stuck open. You just don't want a possible leak path and you don't want to make the new mechanical pump work harder on the suction stroke. So removing the old electrical pump is probably best.

While you have the fuel system apart, this would be a good time to replace any flexible fuel hose you can access. This will catch failures before they happen and you'll have the fuel system drained anyway. by the way, fitting the electric pump is probably easier than retro-fitting the mechanical one. Given the choice I'd stick with the electric one since you already have the wiring in place.

EDIT:
by the way, I completely failed to mention that you should troubleshoot your fuel delivery problem before buying a new pump (mechanical or electric). The SU electric pump uses points and periodically the points inside (under the black Bakelite cover) need to be dressed with sandpaper to restore operation. If the pump is making pumping noises but no fuel is reaching the carbs, this could also be the sign of something like plugged filters or plugged/stuck float valves in the carb(s). If you don't take the time to insure it's really the pump that's at fault, you could end up with a nice new pump that still isn't getting fuel into the float bowls.

So many thanks for thekind advice. I know my way around the engine for basic work etc, however im begining to feel that this is a job for someone with a lot more experience than me. thanks for the hints etc, however i feel that its time to admit my limits and let a pro do it! lol

cheers