10 replies to this topic

[langers2k]

I have an electronic metro dizzy, quite handy as the engine is also from a metro and in the dry they work perfectly together.

Unfortunately, recent wet weather and a friendly RAC man have discovered that screw at the top of the dizzy cap has no thread to screw into. As you can imagine this means that any moisture in the air can now get into my dizzy and effectively kill my car

I have a couple of options, one of which is helicoiling it. I assume that most places will need the dizzy out of the car to do this? Plus I have no idea where I could get it done or the cost of.

Another option is to replace the dizzy with a similar unit.

Either way, it looks like I will need to take the dizzy off the engine at some point, and then try and get it back on without messing with the timing. I have never tried to adjust the timing on an engine and although I have read the Haynes manual and a couple of posts I am not too confident with the idea.

So! What would guys suggest? I have all manor of temporary measures in place (splash shield/rubber glove/vaseline/tie wrap to hold the dizzy up), but none of them can compare to having the screw tightened as it should be.

Anyone know anywhere around Barnsley that could helicoil in situe? Or anyone that have the tools to helicoil it, would be willing to do it in situe and are not too far from Barnsley?

If not, can anyone help me with the removal/refitting of a dizzy and then setting the timing as needed? I can get a timing light if needed (given some warning).

And yes, there will be beer money for services rendered be it helicoil or timing

If anyone knows the size of the bolt so I can try finding my own helicoil kit, that would also be very useful!

[ginigwunkle]

score the dizzy with a sharp pointy object,

mark both the dizzy and engine block in a nice clear line,

undo the clamp, remove the dizzy and drive spindle check and sort out whatever you need too then put the dizzy back and line the marks up.....

SORTED!

[dklawson]

I suspect that while HeliCoiling would be an answer, it won't be an easy task. I'm not concerned about the actual work... I'm concerned about the threads. All the Lucas dizzy fasteners I've ever seen are BA threads (not metric, not imperial). As such, finding the HeliCoil kit may not be easy.

Since you own this distributor and since you have parts you can measure, have you considered drilling and tapping the dizzy housing (on the engine block) with the next largest inch or metric fastener? It sounds like you have very little to lose and possibly everything to gain.

[m1n1]

I drilled and tapped my distributor 5 years ago and its been fine ever since.

[dklawson]

As a footnote to ginigwunkle's suggestion on scoring an alignment mark between the dizzy and block/clamp... I prefer to use paint or a permanent marker on clean metal. If you find you have to move the dizzy at a later time when the timing is set differently... an array of possible score lines will confuse you. Paint can be applied and removed at will.

[langers2k]

I suspect that while HeliCoiling would be an answer, it won't be an easy task. I'm not concerned about the actual work... I'm concerned about the threads. All the Lucas dizzy fasteners I've ever seen are BA threads (not metric, not imperial). As such, finding the HeliCoil kit may not be easy.

Since you own this distributor and since you have parts you can measure, have you considered drilling and tapping the dizzy housing (on the engine block) with the next largest inch or metric fastener? It sounds like you have very little to lose and possibly everything to gain.

That sounds like possibly the best option, get the next size up bolt and tap it. But again clearance to get in and work could be a problem...

So I may end removing it, and then tapping it, to but it back on. Bit of a farse but if it gives me easy running in the wet again, life is good!

I will measure it during the next week and see what I can come up with.

m1n1, do you know what size bolt your using now? Thanks!

Ginigwunkle, are you coming to the Dronfield meet tomorrow... If its raining you could end up having a laugh as my car crawls off the road and waits for Mr RAC... Should a fun first meet for me eh?

[Ethel]

I'm not sure the missing bolt will be the cause of your soggy running problems, dizzy caps are hardly water tight, but you could resort to some tightly wrapped insulation tape or possibly even a large jubilee clip as a temporary measure.

[langers2k]

I'm not sure the missing bolt will be the cause of your soggy running problems, dizzy caps are hardly water tight, but you could resort to some tightly wrapped insulation tape or possibly even a large jubilee clip as a temporary measure.

It means my dizzy is quite loose, as in if I pull the leads the entire cap moves. What else could be getting effected? All of my electronics work fine and I have plenty of voltage when it starts to die.

It will idle perfectly (well as perfect as my car gets, it has a really poor idle), but when you put the engine under load you can hear it starting to loose cylinders, even if it is out of gear, if you floor the accelerator end engine will struggle. If you open the accelerator gently it will rev as usual.

[charlie_the_miniboy]

happened to my MG metro dizzy, i just put a course thread self tapper in, worked fine..

thats just what i did, not saying it'd work for you but can't see why not...

[jayare]

I have the same thing with my Metro electronic based dizzy - first time I put the cap on (when it was brand new!) the thread stripped. It's had a tie-wrap holding the top of the cap on ever since and I've never had any problems with damp getting in.

JR

[205 tref]

can vouch for the cable tie approach! did that to my old rover metro dizzy and it was fine for years!