14 replies to this topic

[Udo]

Right this is not the usual problem - I think!

I have changed my alternator, due to space issues with the new engine, to one of the Nippon Denso types (the 3 wire type) I simply changed the terminals on the wires as required to suit the new alternator

On the new nippon alternator there are 3 connects

main post
L
IG

I have connected the wires as follows

Main large brown wire to the main post
Brown and blue to IG
Brown and yellow to L

From internet searchs and on here the above are the right connections but when I turn on the ignition I dont get the red ign warning light

If I take the brown and yellow wire off and ground it on the engine block the warning lamp lights up so its not the bulb or wiring.


Anybody any ideas?

Cheers

Ian

[GraemeC]

My initial thoughts would be that the brown/yellow should go to the IG (ignition?) terminal.

If I remember rightly there is a fair bit of info on Turbominis about the ND alternators.

[johnnie]

I have to agree that the yellow/brown may be on the wrong post.
The lamp lights because the wire out to the altenator is at a lower potental than the wire from the battery coming in. If the terminal that the yellow and brown is connected to is already live there is no potental between the in and out and the lamp stays off. It thinks the altenator is charging.
Try swapping them over?

[Udo]

I got the wiring from Turbominis it said brown/yellow to the L (L for lamp?) terminal and brown /blue to the IG terminal

I'll get the multimeter out again tonight and see what is and isnt live with the key in various positions

[Udo]

Right then

Key in either off, position 1 or position 2 brown/yellow has 0 volts and brown/blue is 12 volt

Key in either off, position 1 or position 2 the main post is 12 volts as is the IG terminal, the L terminal has 0 volts

Just a thought as the car hasn't been run in a while the battery is showing 11.9 volts across the terminals - would this cause the light not to come on?

[Udo]

oh and swapping the wires over did nothing

[GraemeC]

Key in either off, position 1 or position 2 brown/yellow has 0 volts and brown/blue is 12 volt

Key in either off, position 1 or position 2 the main post is 12 volts as is the IG terminal, the L terminal has 0 volts

Are these tests with the wires diconnected from the alt? The first statement doesn't sound right (if disconnected) - there should be 12V on the brown/yellow with the key on. Try grounding this wire and then turning the ignition on - the lamp should light. If not then either the bulb is blown or the wires are wrong/broken.

Brown/blue being 12V is correct - the brown should be 12V too. These effectively come from the same place and on a mini have no difference in function.

[Udo]

Got something mixed up there then as if I ground the brown/yellow at the alternator end the light lights up

[GraemeC]

That proves that side of the circuit is OK then.

With everything disconnected:
Do you have continuity between earth and any of the alternator connections (especially the L connection)?
Do you have continuity between any of the terminals - ie the post and IG or the post and L?

[Udo]

That proves that side of the circuit is OK then.

With everything disconnected:
Do you have continuity between earth and any of the alternator connections (especially the L connection)?
Do you have continuity between any of the terminals - ie the post and IG or the post and L?

L terminal has no continuity with other probe of multimeter on +ve

Don't know about between post and either L or IG will check tonight

[ferrox_666]

the L terminal will be live and will connect to the same battery source as the main charge cable, this is feedback for the regluator in the altenator.
The IG terminal does indeed mean ignition and needs to be connected to the warning light which is then connected to an ignition switched live, typically the 'B' terminal on the voltage regulator behing the clocks. trust ive been trying to work out the same prob all week ..

[stevemkeen]

Hi all,

I am Installing a nippon alternator three terminal type you are talking about, having the same problem you are having, can't get the ignition light to illuminate , if i earth the ignition wire it will illuinmate but not if I connect it to either spade connector on the alternator, any one found a solution to this problem, can we every get these three terminal type alternators to work without further electrical modification? any one know a solution, would be greatly appreciated.

[KernowCooper]

Old post but here is the way the Nippon Denso Alternators are wired.

 

They differ in that the exciter is not supplied by the warning light , they have a separate ignition controlled feed see the terminals details below

Attached Files

•  Nippon 3 terminal alternator.gif   13.66K   28 downloads

[stevemkeen]

Thanks for response to my question , I was aware of this diagram. The existing circuit gets earth returned via the normal alternator to illuminate the ignition/ charging light when the engine isn't running 

I assume once the engine runs and alternator start producing voltage/current it produces a voltage on the ignition terminal of the alternator which counters the voltage there buy extinguishing / cancelling the charging/ignition light in the car.

How does this circuit work then ? do i need to change the bulb on the instrument panel or change the wiring some how , I have done a continuity check and found that the ignition terminal on the Denso alternator read 4.7K resistance so isn't enough of a low resistance to light a normal bulb, does this circuit suggest the bulb gets a earth return via the alternator?" sorry for all the questions, any help would be appricated.

[KernowCooper]

The Charge light gets its earth non charge mode  via the alternator as you said and when running the alternator is on charge and cancels out the supply voltage to the light and the light goes out on charge you would need to make a new 12v switched live and connect as per the diagram