Hi
I had a nightmare this morning. Driving across a roundabout and my car just cuts out. Nothing. Dead.
I stop on road and push it to the side.
Turn the key in blind faith and it started for as long as the key was turn and then died straight away.
It will do this every time just not keep running.
Doesn't even make an attempt at running. As soon as key is released from start the car stops.
I have no idea where to start to find the problem with this.
Can anyone make a suggestion?
Thanks
Lloyd

My Car Died
Started by
coopersmate
, Apr 17 2008 03:00 PM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 17 April 2008 - 03:00 PM
#2
Posted 17 April 2008 - 04:14 PM
The symptoms you are describing imply that you have a ballast ignition system and that you have a problem with the feed to ignition coil (+) from the ignition switch.
Succinctly, with a ballast ignition system the ignition coil operates at reduced voltage during normal operation. This is achieved by supplying power to coil (+) through a resistor or length of resistor wire. To give you a hotter spark at the plugs when cranking the engine, a second wire on coil (+) goes to the starter solenoid. This wire bypasses the ballast resistor so the coil can operate at a higher voltage. This higher voltage is only supplied while the ignition key is in the "start" position.
Look at your ignition coil. You probably will find that the coil (+) terminal has a yellow/white and a pinkish colored wire on it. To test this, disconnect the pink wire and wrap its terminal in a rag to insulate it. Find an automotive light bulb (say from a tail lamp or something) switch on the ignition and return to the pink wire. Hold the pink wire's bare metal lug against the metal portion of the lamp's base. Then carefully touch the lead tip of the lamp to a bare earth spot on the engine or chassis. If the lamp lights... I'm wrong. If the lamp fails to light, you have a problem with either the ignition switch or the pink wire is broken internally. DO NOT replace the pink wire with regular wire. It is special.
Succinctly, with a ballast ignition system the ignition coil operates at reduced voltage during normal operation. This is achieved by supplying power to coil (+) through a resistor or length of resistor wire. To give you a hotter spark at the plugs when cranking the engine, a second wire on coil (+) goes to the starter solenoid. This wire bypasses the ballast resistor so the coil can operate at a higher voltage. This higher voltage is only supplied while the ignition key is in the "start" position.
Look at your ignition coil. You probably will find that the coil (+) terminal has a yellow/white and a pinkish colored wire on it. To test this, disconnect the pink wire and wrap its terminal in a rag to insulate it. Find an automotive light bulb (say from a tail lamp or something) switch on the ignition and return to the pink wire. Hold the pink wire's bare metal lug against the metal portion of the lamp's base. Then carefully touch the lead tip of the lamp to a bare earth spot on the engine or chassis. If the lamp lights... I'm wrong. If the lamp fails to light, you have a problem with either the ignition switch or the pink wire is broken internally. DO NOT replace the pink wire with regular wire. It is special.
#3
Posted 17 April 2008 - 04:44 PM
thanks i will report back when the car has been towed home.
Lloyd
Lloyd
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