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Mini 1.3i - Problem With Temperature Signal/automatic Choke


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#1 scotty1

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 04:04 PM

Hi everyone!

Am very new to all this so my excuses if I say something stupid! I am a meer woman but I do have a little understanding of mini's. I have mini balmoral 1.3i (1995). Unfortunately i do not have enough understanding so I use a small garage run by a young guy who specialises in mini's. (Am from Scotland but live in the Netherlands, by the way!). Ok, the problem.......

Basically my mechanic tells me that the ECU computer is receiving a signal that the temperature is low and is therefore using the automatic choke. However, because the signal is faulty (or being received wrongly) the engine is receiving too much petrol and the engine is not running correctly. He has been looking for the problem for 3 weeks and has done the following:

- vacuum hose changed
- temperature sensor changed/cable's checked
- compression checked
- lambda sensor changed
- other ecu computer connected
- exhaust manifold gasket changed

My mechanic says he is at a loss what to try next and he is suggesting a complete new engine block. Advice from friends (who know a bit more than me) and from other mini internet forums is that this is maybe not necessary. I also can't believe that there aren't other things he can look for. Suggestions and advice gratefully received! Only other suggestion till now is to replace the thermostat.

Frustrated Scottie mini-owner in Cloggieland!

#2 Pauly

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 07:19 PM

Is it MPI/SPI. Easy way to tell is spi's have a fan on the side of the engine (on the right) mpis have no fan, they have a front mounted radiator.

If its an MPI it could be the idle air control valve, im not familar on mpis but usually the idle air control valve can be the culprit for a few problems.

Is he sure that the temp signal is right, there could be an air leak somewhere.

Paul.

#3 Road Runner

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 09:05 PM

It's an SPi as it's been asked on anther forum, I told her to ask you guy's being as there are more of you.

#4 DaveRob

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 09:01 AM

My first question is....where does the temp gauge in the dash read....is it next to the normal temp line..... is your termostate 88 deg C..this is MOST important.... If your mechanic has changed the temp sensor how does he know the ECU is reading a low value for temperatur....is he useing a fault code reader..... if he is the reader SHOULD give a readout showing realtime data...and if its showing 88 Deg C then its not to do with the CTS....Is the wire from the CTS to the ECU showing a high resistance... it terminates on pin 33 at the ecu.... make sure thatthe ECU pins are clean and with no corrosion..... This check is going to be hard work on an SPi cause the CTS is under the inlet manifold and cant even be seen let alone disconnected without removing the manifold...in my experience that is...... Not making assumptions about your mechanic....but he has changed the CTS hasnt he.....they cost about £46 just for the sensor.... but some people mistakenly belive that the CTS is the 2 wires at the bottom of the rad, ( this is for the elec fan actually)..... What is the part number of your ECU?... should start with MNE and be written on the lable where you can see it.... report back and we can see where we go from their...

Hope this helps

DaveRob

#5 scotty1

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Posted 02 June 2008 - 10:48 AM

My first question is....where does the temp gauge in the dash read....is it next to the normal temp line..... is your termostate 88 deg C..this is MOST important.... If your mechanic has changed the temp sensor how does he know the ECU is reading a low value for temperatur....is he useing a fault code reader..... if he is the reader SHOULD give a readout showing realtime data...and if its showing 88 Deg C then its not to do with the CTS....Is the wire from the CTS to the ECU showing a high resistance... it terminates on pin 33 at the ecu.... make sure thatthe ECU pins are clean and with no corrosion..... This check is going to be hard work on an SPi cause the CTS is under the inlet manifold and cant even be seen let alone disconnected without removing the manifold...in my experience that is...... Not making assumptions about your mechanic....but he has changed the CTS hasnt he.....they cost about £46 just for the sensor.... but some people mistakenly belive that the CTS is the 2 wires at the bottom of the rad, ( this is for the elec fan actually)..... What is the part number of your ECU?... should start with MNE and be written on the lable where you can see it.... report back and we can see where we go from their...

Hope this helps

DaveRob



#6 scotty1

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Posted 02 June 2008 - 10:53 AM

Hi Dave,

Sorry for not replying sooner. Been away few weeks.

Thanks for the info. Too technical for me but have forwarded it to the mechanic. Since my last mail the mini has now had been read for error-codes and the only suggestion was the replacement of the fly-wheel and sensor. This has been done with no effect. But suddenly the temperature gauge works! But its still giving too much gas. It can be driven but the mechanic says that it will be a problem for the MOT because the emissions will be too high.

I'll see if he reacts to your comments and let you know. Any other suggestions gratefully received because am getting desperate!

Thanks again,

Scotty

#7 DaveRob

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Posted 02 June 2008 - 02:12 PM

I cant possibly understand why the Flywheel and sensor would have any bearing on the fault that you described....a faulty sensor would simply stop the engine running.... The flywheel is so mechanical as to need zero maintanance........ If the ECU was read for error codes I cant see why anyone would want to change the crank sensor and fly as their would be no indication other than the live data for the engine speed to suggest that their was an issue..... and if the engine actually runs then chances are the Crank sensor is ok.........If this was me I would check the resistance of the CTS that seems to have repaied itself as you temp guage now works.... I would double check all your ECU earths and all the MAP sensor tubes from the back of the throttle body all the way to the ECU via the inline trap. also check the condition of the sensor to the air filter as a leak here would cause problems also....

Please report back as to what fault code was read to warrant changing the crank sensor and flywheel....

And check those ECU earths and wiring to the CTS again... but mainly the earths
Thanks

Rob




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