10 replies to this topic

[mike.]

Been trying to sort out my HU and get it working like it used to. So i've taken it out and found the wiring is in abit of a mess.

For a start the remote wire (blue one?) had come out of the ISO plug and i haven't a clue where it came out of.



Theres 5 redundant wires that have been cut about 3 inches after coming out of the ISO plug (1 grey, 1 grey/black, 2 white and an orange)



So ignoring those theres the ones coming out of the ISO plug and actually leading somewhere (2 purple, 2 green, 1 black, 1 yellow, 1 red, and there should be the blue one which goes to my amp but has pull out of the ISO plug)



They all come out of the plug then have been cut and connected to other wires that go up the bulkhead somewhere:



A couple of these go to earth (a bad earth i might add)



So At the moment i'm left with the thick wires from the amp and the aerial in the back of the headunit:



And i'm 99% sure all the amp wiring is correct (from left to right: positive, remote, negative, thick wires to the HU, then left and right speaker connections)




So basically What a mess! I have no idea where to start. At the moment if i connect everything (apart from the remote wire because i don't know where it goes) the headunit doesn't even light up to say theres power.

What should i do with this lot? I think if i can find out where the remote wire goes in the plug then i won't be far off getting it sorted - since thats the only wire that i know has come disconnected.

Help

[james105]

Have you got a multimeter?
You will need to find your earth lead, and then from there find your constant power, and your switched power. The switched power will only give a 12v reading when ignition is on.
Also looking in those pics, read what the ISO cables say on them from the back of the headunit, they are labelled along the wire, this will help you pair them with the correct car wiring.
With regards to which point on the plug the blue remote cable came out of, look where the pins are on the other side of the plug are, should be able to pair it up.

I had to do a mates escort cabriolets sterio wiring on friday, and that was a mess. Best way is to go out and get some bullet connectors (females and male) and it will make it all a lot neater, as well as allow you to unplug and plug.

This is how it finished up, a lot neater:

Attached Files

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Edited by james105, 27 April 2008 - 02:15 PM.

[mike.]

I've made some progress i've got the HU working now, but the amps not powering up.

I've got the amp wired like in this thread: http://www.theminifo...showtopic=80489

Positive, remote, negative. I've tryed swapping the + and - around but its done nothing. Does the remote cable control when the amp comes on and off?

Also what is the symbol for the remote cable on the ISO label? I've got three unused connections the remote could go in, ones labelled muting tel, another with a weird Y shape symbol and the other is unmarked. Which one does it go on?

[langers2k]

The wire to power the amp doesn't look very thick, are you sure its up to the job? Never seen 4 connections for the power/ground/remote on a amp either, they normally have a bunch of three for that. Do you have a model number for it?

Yes the remote wire does turn the amp on.

The ISO plug layout is as follows:



Top set
Purple - Rear right
Grey - Front right
White - Front left
Green - Rear left
Ones with the black stripe are negative.

Bottom set
Yellow - Permanent power
Red - Switched power
Black - Ground
Orange - Illumination
Blue - Remote

Looking at the pictures, the front speaker outputs aren't used and the rears are. How many speakers are in the car?

You may have one set running from the headunit and another set from the amp?

[mike.]

Theres 2 speakers on the rear shelf. The speaker wires from the ISO plug must just be cut off somewhere.

Thanks for that diagram - I'v already downloaded the wiring diagram for my HU and found where the remote wire goes. I've also uncovered the labels for the wiring on the amp. They had been painted over! They go negative, positive then remote. So i've got them wired in and the remote cable in the right place - But the amp won't turn on. The powerlight on it doesn't come on :S I've tested the power supply and its getting 13v to it.

The wires are pretty thick, the amp always used to run fine with them.

So now the problem is either down to a dodgy remote wire - Which its not really. Or the amps packed up?

Do amps have an internal fuse that i might have blown by connecting things up the wrong way?

[langers2k]

When the headunit is on, there should be 12v on the remote wire. Check both ends and see if there is? If there isn't, that could be the problem.

If the remote and power are both at 12v. The problem lies with either the ground or the amp, check the ground with your multimeter, if its fine then it is probably the amp.

You may have damaged the amp when connecting it wrongly, if there was a fuse you could replace you would be able to see it on the body of the amp somewhere. I doubt there is any internal *user serviceable parts* you could be replace.

[mike.]

I've just tested the remote wire - Its only giving 11.33v when the HU is on. Could that be the problem is thats not putting ouut enough voltage for the amp to recognise it? If so then what could be causing weak voltage?

[mike.]

Unfourunatly i think my amps burnt out. I've checked all the other possiblities and they were fine so i took the amp apart and the circuit board smells of burning

[langers2k]

11.3V should still turn it on.

If it does smell of burning then there is a very good chance its dead... Sorry!

[mike.]

I know DOH!

[mike.]

So new amp then. Only want a small, cheap one.

Found these on ebay one with wiring, one without but the one without comes with the box and documents etc. Are they any good these amps?:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...emZ130217768191

250w sounds about right - Doesn't look nice like my denon one but i can respray or something...