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Polishing Rustoleum - Is This Normal?


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#1 Middleman

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Posted 03 May 2008 - 08:43 PM

I'm using T-Cut to bring out a panel, and whilst the gloss is there, the paint is going toward gray (it's supposed to be black). I was just trying a small area, so luckily this hasn't occurred on the the whole panel. My main hunch was that the T cut was too abrasive, but I don't want to buy some other polish if its actually a feature of Rustoleum itself. Any help from the Guru's out there?

#2 Retro_10s

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Posted 03 May 2008 - 08:57 PM

how long is it since you've painted it?... and are you flatting it back before you use T-cut?

I would not use T-cut, 'tis full of ammonia which is bad for paint., get some G-10 instead.

Got any pics of the bit in question?

#3 1984mini25

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Posted 03 May 2008 - 10:42 PM

I’ve got this problem with mine; I re-sprayed the front end of mine about a week ago and flatted off a few areas/Imperfections and tryed to poilish it back up, but it now just looks dull and flat.

#4 Retro_10s

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Posted 03 May 2008 - 10:43 PM

Hmmm something tells me it might simply not be hardened enough.

#5 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 09:19 AM

Alot of cheap solid colours do that, not that I'm saying rustoleum is cheap. The only thing to do is to polish it all over with g3 advanced, then 3m finnesse it glaze with a softer compound mop. I have never used rustoleum, so couldn't comment on how much hardener to use, or how long it takes. If you use the manufacturers instructions it should be fine.

#6 Retro_10s

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 09:35 AM

Hey pete, just so you know,.. there is no hardener required for rustoleum, just plaijn ol' white spirit. Although i wonder if there is a comaptible hardener out there>? might really help thing along when wating for it to flash off for a year ;D

#7 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 07:05 PM

Hey pete, just so you know,.. there is no hardener required for rustoleum, just plaijn ol' white spirit. Although i wonder if there is a comaptible hardener out there>? might really help thing along when wating for it to flash off for a year ;D


Ah right ok. I doubt if you can get hardener then, I don't think you can for celly, and it sounds like the same kinda thing.

#8 midridge2

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 09:37 PM

i think its more on the lines of synthetic and air dries.

#9 1984mini25

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 09:39 PM

I thought rustoleum was enamel based?

#10 sway

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 10:48 PM

Not a hardener as such but you can speed up the drying/hardening time by adding a small amount of Terebine Driers.

#11 Retro_10s

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:14 AM

I thought rustoleum was enamel based


'Tis indeed. :withstupid:

#12 Bungle

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 03:01 PM

this paint does take awhile to go hard

#13 wanderinstar

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 05:36 PM

I have been watching these threads, both on here and on VW sites, with great interest. I may be covering old ground, if so sorry, but it seems to be the case to thin paint to about 4/1 and use a foam 4" roller. Wet flatting after every 2nd coat. 6-8 coats required. Then wait about a month before final flatting and buffing up.
If you use straight from tin you put quite a thick coat on and top dries but not underneath. Which could give problems cutting up.

I haven't used it YET, but have been using Tekaloid coach enamel. Similar stuff but you can't buff it up.

Hope this helps,
Ian.




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