2 replies to this topic

[Danny-T]

Now summer's here I can get around to working on my '92 Cooper again (I've no garage so have to do all work on the drive).

Last year I removed my cylinder head to sort out my skanky gasket (see here) and on the advice from Sprocket I'll be taking the head to Slark to have the valves and seats recut.

Anyway as I'm also going to be replacing most of the front-end I've decided I want to do a total engine-out clean up and sort out. I've already removed the head, fuel injector, manifold, clutch master and a few other bits. I've never done anything this involved before so any advice for doing this would be greatly appreciated, I'm mostly daunted by the wiring as there seems to be loads of it everywhere :S.

Also whilst I'm doing it I want to do anything else I should, I've compiled this list from another thread but if anyone can add anything else I should do that would be great:

Steam clean
Sand and repaint bulkhead
Grease breaklines
Repainting block/head
Replace oil pump
Gearbox steadies(Minispares part numbers MSSK and MSSK001 - I already have an ultimate engine steady but he suggests it takes up too much room and isn't worth it, anyone else agree?)


Thanks guys!

Dan

[minicooper1.3i]

Hi

I've just had my MPi engine out and will be having it out again soon to drop a new one in. In addition to what you're already planning and if you've got the cash I suggest:-

--Recon upper suspension arms
--Check and renew (if neccesary) front break lines
--Replace all engine mounts and steady bushes
--Replace front and rear subframe mounts
--Replace the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder with a braided one (rubber ones do deteriate and braided don't and it's easier to change if engine's out, especially if it's corroded to the bracket)
--Replace gear shift oil seal and gaiter on the back of the gearbox
--Check condition of steering rack (easier to drop the subframe to replace it if the engine's out)
--Check condition of speedo cable and throttle cable
--Check all rubber hoses.
--and obviously check the subframe over and treat any corroding areas.

With regards to the ultimate engine steady, I presume you mean the type that bolts to the thermostat housing? I had one fitted on my old SPi because the normal top steady bracket had broken away from the body. It was a tad fiddly to fit (especially the nut nearest the bulkhead) but it didn't cause me any undue problems and was very good at holding the engine. But if you replace all the steady bushes anyway, especially with uprated ones, you shouldn't need it.

Hope that helps and good luck!

[Danny-T]

Hi

I've just had my MPi engine out and will be having it out again soon to drop a new one in. In addition to what you're already planning and if you've got the cash I suggest:-

--Recon upper suspension arms
--Check and renew (if neccesary) front break lines
--Replace all engine mounts and steady bushes
--Replace front and rear subframe mounts
--Replace the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder with a braided one (rubber ones do deteriate and braided don't and it's easier to change if engine's out, especially if it's corroded to the bracket)
--Replace gear shift oil seal and gaiter on the back of the gearbox
--Check condition of steering rack (easier to drop the subframe to replace it if the engine's out)
--Check condition of speedo cable and throttle cable
--Check all rubber hoses.
--and obviously check the subframe over and treat any corroding areas.

With regards to the ultimate engine steady, I presume you mean the type that bolts to the thermostat housing? I had one fitted on my old SPi because the normal top steady bracket had broken away from the body. It was a tad fiddly to fit (especially the nut nearest the bulkhead) but it didn't cause me any undue problems and was very good at holding the engine. But if you replace all the steady bushes anyway, especially with uprated ones, you shouldn't need it.

Hope that helps and good luck!

Thanks! That's great info there will see how much of it my budget will stretch to.