10 replies to this topic

[minicooper1.3i]

Hi

I need to do some touch up work on my MPi Cooper, so I'm planning to rub down certain areas to bare metal, remove the rust by whatever means and then re-prime and paint. The front of the car has already been sprayed by someone (not very well) and the finish is much rougher than the rest of the original paintwork.

The car is Kingfisher Blue which I think is a pearlescent colour rather than a metalic colour, but does it need lacquer on top?

If it does need lacquer, how many coats should I use and does it require any rubbing down between coats, as the paint and primer will?

Cheers!

[jack_marshall]

It sounds like the front of your car needs abit of a nib off and polish to me.

As for rubbing down, apply 3-4 coats of primer then leave to cure a day before flatting.

Then apply your basecoat and fade out away from your repair, try not to paint this to panel edges as you can see colour differences. Do not rub down basecoat. Just apply it and leave it.

Once your basecoat has gone off, which will be a matter of minutes in warm conditions, start and apply your laquer.

Laquering the whole panel is easier than trying to fade it out if your a beginner.

You need to apply a half decent coat of laquer, let this tack off, then you should be able to apply a finishing coat. Although it might be easier as a beginner to apply a steady coat and then 2 decent but not heavy coats of laquer.

Leave it a couple days, then you can nib off your painted panel and polish.

[minicooper1.3i]

Thanks for that. One question though. What does 'nib' mean?

[jack_marshall]

Sorry, should have explained a little better.

Nibbing or flatting is mosty done to fresh paint. Once the finishing coat has been sat a day or 2 to cure, the surface can then be rubbed with a rubbing block and 1200-1500 wet and dry. Use this on the block with a bucket of clean soapy water.

The effect your looking for is a matt finish (dont worry!) with no little bits of C**p in the paint, its always nice if you can get rid of the orange peel effect you see on paint too.

Once you've done that you can polish the paint back up. Most people now are using a compound polish called Farecla G3.

It can be used by hand but does tend to be abit aggressive and mark the paint. It is best used on an electric buffer!

[minicooper1.3i]

Sorry, should have explained a little better.

Nibbing or flatting is mosty done to fresh paint. Once the finishing coat has been sat a day or 2 to cure, the surface can then be rubbed with a rubbing block and 1200-1500 wet and dry. Use this on the block with a bucket of clean soapy water.

The effect your looking for is a matt finish (dont worry!) with no little bits of C**p in the paint, its always nice if you can get rid of the orange peel effect you see on paint too.

Once you've done that you can polish the paint back up. Most people now are using a compound polish called Farecla G3.

It can be used by hand but does tend to be abit aggressive and mark the paint. It is best used on an electric buffer!

Thanks very much. I have got a new bonnet to paint soon, as the current one is in right state. It'll be best to practice on that first i think (as it's off the car). I've done a fair bit of painting before but only with flat colours (and with aerosols). I did a whole door once. Got through about 5 500ml cans of primer and about 7 cans of paint, from constantly rubbing down using progressivley finer grain paper, then a rubbing compound. Have got access to a compressor now, so will have to see about getting a spray gun for it I think.

Do you know what form would this paint come in? Would it be celulose or water based? (please don't laugh at my ignorance...too much)

Thanks matey!

[jack_marshall]

If its metallic basecoat your after, it will be likely to be waterbase now.

You might get lucky and find a supplier who still have stock of the mixers to mix it in 2k basecoat though.

2K basecoat is easier to work with because it dries quicker but needs proper painting masks as its not good stuff.

Waterbase needs airflow to dry and takes quite abit longer without drying equipment you'd find in a bodyshop. But saying that there was somebody who painted the front of their mini using this not so long ago.

There was quite a big topic on it, he put up pictures of his progress and I think it came out very well as I remember. Quite brave for using it at home!

Ill have a quick search, see if I can find it for you.

Found it;

http://www.theminifo...x...rbase&st=45

Edited by jack_marshall, 24 May 2008 - 05:18 PM.

[jif2006]

Hey,

I would think for the work your doing you’d be better off and safer to use Cellulose If your going to be doing a bit of spraying as you have mentioned id recommend purchasing a mask suitable for cellulose they are around £25.00 and are worth there wait in gold they are known as twin filament organic vapour masks and are obtainable from B&Q.

Also You can buy cellulose relatively cheap at £14.00 500ml or £24.99 for 1000ml so lots for not a great deal.

As for the lacquer you would be able to use 1K lacquer without the side effects of it being carcinogenic as it doesn’t have the isocyanides compared to that of 2K and also gives an acceptable finish which will then require cutting back (G3)

Kind regards

Brad

[panelbeaterpeter]

Only acceptable if you polish it once a week! goes dull very quickly in my experience.

[jack_marshall]

1k laquer is naff in my opinion.

Alrite for cheap quick repairs but not worth doing large areas.

Edited by jack_marshall, 25 May 2008 - 12:02 AM.

[minicooper1.3i]

Thanks for all the advice people!

I won't be doing the front of the car because it really need stripping right down and having the alignment of the front panels checked. It was obviously a cheap job done by someone as the small seam between the headlight and bonnet has been welded up, instead of being done from the inside, and there's overspray in the engine bay where it wasn't masked off properly.

For now I think I'll practice on the new bonnet, then turn my attentions to the small blisters on the doors.

I'll have to read my Mini Resto manual I think then start some fresh posts.

By the way, if 1K lacquer is naff, what should be used?

Cheers

[Retro_10s]

By the way, if 1K lacquer is naff, what should be used?

Cheers

2k laquer which is available from your local paint shop requires hardeners and some thinners usually.