5 replies to this topic

[Chris White]

I'm re-building an 81 Morris Mini. I had to replace the door step and A post as well as put in an inner wing repair panel. I still have to weld in the windscreen corner repair and the gusset. My problem is that my door no longer fits and that it is also not very sturdy.





Its hard to explain.... but first the door frame is now too tight. How can I spread the frame out a little bit to make the door fit.



Additionally, the A post now seems to be too weak. The door sort of tilts back on its hinges when I open it. I can crank it back into position with a G-Clamp. But when I unclamp it it kind of tilits back again. Will this stiffen up when I put the gusset and the windscreen repair in? If not what can I do to fix this?





Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Chris

[Ethel]

You might have to grind out a few welds, fit the doors with the odd chock to set the spacing right then tack t up again. Might be worth shimming the hinges too: it's easier to remove or add shims to adjust the fit.

[cambiker71]

Is this post for real? a full workshop with what looks like a good set of tools, and you havent realised that there's no strength or sturdiness with half the metal missing? the answer is a portapower ram or similar to hold the hinge panel in the correct position while the rest of the bodywork is replaced, then shim the door to fit, or use the portapower to straighten the door frame to fit the door like they did in the factory (which is why second hand doors are a git to fit properly)

[jack_marshall]

Portapower is for damage.

The problem you have with the door could be down to the position of the a post and bulkhead/flitch panels you have put in.

You should have left the old quarter on until the A post and door was fitting nicely again.

This is quite hard to explain but the shell should always be repaired using the bulkhead as a datum. This means you always measure and work forwards or backwards from the bulkhead.

The door should hang quite rigid, unless you havnt spot or plug welded the flitch the the actual a post, they tend to flex if theyre not.

To do it properly you may have to go back on your work. Majority of people hate doing this so will resort to porterpower and big hammers to make it all fit.

Edited by jack_marshall, 29 June 2008 - 10:16 PM.

[Chris White]

OK..... got this figured out. The actual bulkhead repair panel I put in didn't completely line up. I went back a little on my work and I straightened things out with a mallet and re-welded and it fits a lot better. Thanks for all the help. For the guy with the smart comment about this being a real post..... I rent a stall to work in because I don't have anywhere else to do it. I'm trying to figure this out as I go along. I appreciate any help and motivation that I get from the forum.
Chris

[Mikey7094]

Sorry to hijack a really old thread, but I'm having exactly the same problem with door fit. I recently fitted complete new inner wings, and also added the windscreen corner repair pieces (photo attached). Apparently I was not careful enough, because now the doors droop at the back.

 

It's not clear to me how exactly the OP fixed this. I expect to have to undo some work, or make some strategic cuts, but could someone suggest the best approach?

 

My current thinking is: if I clamp the door to the windscreen surround (as in the OP's photo), I can see the A post flexing forward a bit. So maybe if I clamp the doors like this and then replace the scuttle repair pieces, the A posts should hopefully stay put when the clamps are released. I also still need to attach the A post boxing plates (ALA5686/7/8/9), which could also help hold things in place. Is this likely to work?

 

Any advice appreciated! Thanks a lot,

Mike

 

 

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