8 replies to this topic

[ycming]

Hey people,

This could be a silly questio but need to confirm

http://www.minisport...nfo_GSJ166.html

See the kit above, that includes top and bottom ball join for each side correct ?

Thanks
Ming

[Dan]

It's a pair of joints for one side, not both sides. In theory it contains everything you need. Keep the shims you remove though, there's never enough shims.

[ycming]

ok thanks ,

Order 2 set of the ball joint kits and 2 set of the wheel bearing kit, as they are all needing replace.

Are they hard to change ?

Thanks
Ming

[Dan]

Not hard, just fiddly to setup right.

[ycming]

I will be taken the front hub off ..... could explain a little more on the set up bit ?

Thanks
Ming

[Dan]

The shimming is very important. The manual describes the setting as 'no nip to 0.003"end float, it is imperitive that the ball joint should be able to rotate and articulate freely in all planes'. What that means is that you need to fully excercise the joint after fitting and make sure that it doesn't nip up anywhere in its range of movement. Also there should be no more than 3 thou of float anywhere. It should be hard to move, but still move all round and rotate. Normally a properly adjusted joint will be too tight to move by hand, if you slip a half inch spanner over the pin you should find it easy and comfortable to move all around but by hand you will really have to push hard to move it. That's the best I can describe it really, it's quite a tricky thing to get right. Since you are using new joints you might find it best to lap them, new joints will never have even movement all round and will bind or float somewhere. Lapped joints will last far longer before a rebuild.

[ycming]

Hey Dan,

Thanks for the info, how do i lap them ???

How long do these things usually last ?? And is it worth getting geneuie rover ones for 19 quid a set ???

Thanks
Ming

[DaveRob]

their is a video on you tube tellling you how to do this....

Rob

[Dan]

Lap them as you would a valve. Use fine grinding paste and turn and twist the pin through all of its range of movement while pulling it against the dome nut. Continue until the entire surface of both is a smooth, dull grey and they feel right. Do the same for the fit between the pin and base pad. Then clean them very, very thoroughly to remove all of the paste. Once the three parts are lapped they are a matched set so don't let the parts of each joint get mixed up afterwards.

A well lapped and properly shimmed set that is regularly greased should theoretically last for ever. In the real world if you build them well they will do you for 5 to 10 years, if you build them badly they will last about 6 months.

I would never consider using aftermarket balljoints for the sake of a few quid. There have been very many balljoint failures (and the resulting crashes) described on this forum and my belief is that aftermarket joints (or over tight joints) cause this.