34 replies to this topic

[eriksher]

Do you have a new needle in the carb and have you checked the mixture? Even if you plumb in the manifold it will take a while to heat up and you should be able to drive off from cold regardless! Check for air leaks on the induction too.

Phoebe runs really rough at 1st start, choke out with revs up on throttle and thrash it and after few mins choke off and fine!

new needle from the kit, tuned by ear by an ex indie car tuner

sure, new needle what came with Kit, installed. Mixture set to 2.6.

but i am pretty sure that problem with cold is because of the missing spacer between inlet and carb. when i will get the thinnest spacer i will setup settings again and then will see.

and about choke: with cold engine choke out but i have to push it back in 5 sec or engine will stall like from overfuelling. and keep foot on pedal. but without 5 sec choke the cold engine will not start at all...
with warm no problemo, turn the key and ticktick..

hmm.. just came to my mind.. some words like fast idle and normal idle...

[Strontium Dog]

Fast idle is controlled by a cam on the carb which is operated by the choke! It sound like a good carb service is in order and some setting back to factory standards.

Check that the float levels are correct as this will have a bearing on mixture across the rev. range.

You could then get a Gunsons Colour Tune. A cheap and easy to use device that is surprisingly accurate for setting up the base mixture.


Make sure that there is oil in the dash pot too. Thicker oil gives more mixture enrichment under acceleration and thinner oil gives less.

Edited by Stronteum Dog, 22 July 2008 - 11:44 AM.

[Dusky]

Sorry to bump this up, but I wonder If anyone ever fitted a valve between the manifold and head, so you can open the valve to warm up quicker (and act as a water bypass in my case too :) )
And then close it once the engine is warm to extract as much power as possible (of the cooler manifold would be better for performance ofc).
Would it work?

[Icey]

Sorry to bump this up, but I wonder If anyone ever fitted a valve between the manifold and head, so you can open the valve to warm up quicker (and act as a water bypass in my case too :) )
And then close it once the engine is warm to extract as much power as possible (of the cooler manifold would be better for performance ofc).
Would it work?

You're over engineering for no gain. Take a look at Vizards guide, heating the manifold can help with fueling by limiting fuel 'sticking' to the walls of manifold. The intake run is also so short that the charge doesn't have time to pickup much heat.

Either don't plum it in, or do. Unless you're fighting for every BHP, it's not worth thinking about for too long.

Edited by Icey, 20 August 2017 - 08:00 PM.

[Dusky]

Sorry to bump this up, but I wonder If anyone ever fitted a valve between the manifold and head, so you can open the valve to warm up quicker (and act as a water bypass in my case too :) )
And then close it once the engine is warm to extract as much power as possible (of the cooler manifold would be better for performance ofc).
Would it work?

You're over engineering for no gain. Take a look at Vizards guide, heating the manifold can help with fueling by limiting fuel 'sticking' to the walls of manifold. The intake run is also so short that the charge doesn't have time to pickup much heat.

Either don't plum it in, or do. Unless you're fighting for every BHP, it's not worth thinking about for too long.

In tend to do that ...
Wonder if it would improve OR worsen cooling too..I wonder too much :)