13 replies to this topic

[morley]

what should the primary gear endfloat/crank endfloat be set at? mine is currently at 0.0025"
thanks in advance!

Edited by morley, 21 July 2008 - 09:32 PM.

[Ethel]

Haynes says .0035 to .0065.

That's a little close, have you got the chamfered side of the thrust washer facing the crank for the radius on the crank tail?

[dklawson]

It is close, but it will also increase fairly quickly. If the figure bothers you, flip the C-clip over and see what clearance you have the other way as Ethel suggests.

[Ethel]

Since you're back from your Hols Doug - trust you had a good time with the Canuks?

I've wasted a good few hours turning some alloy heater hose connectors instead of spending 50p on a couple of plumbing joints... Problem is they look so pretty I'm loathed to solder the pipes in to them. I wondered, with your engineering excellence, if you think I'd get away with a drop or 3 of Loctite 270? They're a decent tight push fit not unlike copper water pipe joints.

[dklawson]

Canada was wonderful and I loved every minute of the trip apart from when I needed to buy food. I expected the attractions to be expensive but the food was literally twice as expensive as it should have been. Nonetheless, should you ever find yourself with a reason to be near Niagara Falls... you simply must go there.

As for the plumbing fittings, I understand your not wanting to solder to them, but if they are brass, you could soft solder them and then re-polish them (in the lathe) with some ScotchBrite. If that still sounds drastic and unattractive, you certainly could make the parts a light press fit and apply either Loctite-270, -680, or even -569. As long as the clearances are minimal to a light press the Loctite will develop a good strong bond and the stuff is pretty impervious to water. However, check out the datasheets for the Loctite you decide to use and determine whether you need one of their activator/cleaners. Some materials need the activator for the Loctite to cure in a reasonable time... some materials work best without the activator.

[Ethel]

Cheers,

They're actually aluminium, I did actually try a combination of silver solder and shrink fitting but wouldn't even wet, wasn't expecting it to stick just fill the gaps.

[dklawson]

Aluminum is of course... different. There are rub-on solders that can be used but these take experience to work with. Rub-on solder also doesn't look pretty when applied. I would say try the Loctite and try to maintain a light press fit and you'll be fine.

[morley]

the chamferred side of the primary gear thrust washer is facing the block, is this correct?

[Ethel]

the chamferred side of the primary gear thrust washer is facing the block, is this correct?

Are you hijacking my thread?



Yes, there's a stress relieving radius on the nose of the crank, the chamfer allows for that. Think Doug misread my reply but do try reversing the C washer, as he suggests: it sometimes makes a slight difference. Also check it and its groove to make sure the edges haven't being burred or 'bruised' slightly.

[dklawson]

Ethel is right... I misread his post. I was focusing my thoughts on the c-washer as flipping it side for side can change the clearance by a few thousandths of an inch.

[morley]

Ok i will try reversing the C washer and let you know how i get on, but if the worst comes to the worst and it doesn't make much difference then what can i do to improve it?

[dklawson]

One of the two C-Washer positions will give better clearance. If that still doesn't suit you, take the C-Washer and sand it on a piece of wet/dry paper resting on a glass plate. Once you remove any burrs you'll probably find the clearance is "close enough". Keep in mind that setting the clearance on the low side is preferable as the components will "wear in" quickly.

[morley]

Right, i think i may have confused myself

the crankshaft endfloat is at 0.0025"
so the primary gear enfloat must be a completely different measurement to this? and all you need to do is whack a dti on the primary gear.. move it up and down and check the endfloat that way?
sorry if i caused any confusion

[dklawson]

Crank endfloat and primary gear endfloat are totally separate things to check.

Crank endfloat must be addressed by fitting the proper thrust washers to achieve the specified clearance. It's done with the engine out of the car and the gearbox off.

Primary gear endfloat is also "axial"... just like crank end float. You do not push or pull it up and down... that would be radial clearance measurement. Endfloat could be measured with the DTI positioned axially (parallel to the crank centerline) and pushing and pulling the primary gear in and out. However, I think it is most commonly measured by using feeler gauges between the flanged primary gear bushing and the thrust surface it runs against.