Hi peeps.
I have a 64 morris mini 850 super. The window channels that the glass slides on is rusted out and i'm replacing it.
I have excavated the rusty bits, but cant seem to get the glass out to put the new channels in. I have removed the catches but still no go.
Whats the secret on this one please??
Many thanks
Mk1 Sliding Window Removal / Channels
Started by
nzminiman
, Aug 05 2008 08:15 AM
3 replies to this topic
#2
edi57
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- Members
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- 821 posts
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 05 August 2008 - 11:51 AM
I'm sorry that I can't seem to think of the answer right now. I did this when stripping my '65 Cooper a couple of years ago.
I have found that there arn't really many Mk1 owners on this forum. I'd suggest posting on the Early Mini Forum (www.specialistminiforums.com). I'm sure you'll get your answer there.
I have found that there arn't really many Mk1 owners on this forum. I'd suggest posting on the Early Mini Forum (www.specialistminiforums.com). I'm sure you'll get your answer there.
#3
dklawson
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- TMF+ Member
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Moved Into The Garage
- Name: Doug
- Location: Durham, NC - USA
- Local Club: none
Posted 05 August 2008 - 12:33 PM
What rusty bits have you removed?
The lower window tracks are supported by a chrome plated locking rail. The locking rail is screwed to the top of the door by three (3) flat head screws. Drag the point of an awl down the bottom of the felt window channels until you find the screw heads. Unfortunately these screws were regular galvanized pieces, not stainless steel, so they will be nearly impossible to remove. Drill them out if you have to, just go easy as you don't want to damage the top of the door more than necessary.
Once you have the three screws out, have an assistant catch the glass as you gently push it inward at the bottom of the windows. Blankets and/or foam pads on the floor are a good idea.
Be prepared for two other things you'll need to do while you have the glass out. There is a water drain trough below the chrome locking rail. Be mentally prepared to find severe rust. Clean it out as best you can. I suggest you contact frost.co.uk and buy a starter/sample kit from POR-15 to rebuild the trough into a water sealed channel again. The second thing you should be prepared to do is remove the door cards and replace the tubing that goes from the trough out the bottom of the door. The old rubber tubing will have cracked off at the top and may have been filling the door with water for years. Hopefully the bottom of the door will not have rotted out. You can buy new original rubber tubing. However, I chose to use vinyl tubing about 3/8" ID by 1/2" OD. This fit the nipples on the bottom of the drain trough and still passes through the drain tube guides at the bottom of the door. My last hopeful wish for you is that the drain tubes have not been buggered for years, that there is no rust on the inside of the door, and that the door cards are not damaged from years of being wet.
A good overview of these repairs and how to refit the parts can be found in Lindsay Porter's book on Mini restoration published by Haynes.
The lower window tracks are supported by a chrome plated locking rail. The locking rail is screwed to the top of the door by three (3) flat head screws. Drag the point of an awl down the bottom of the felt window channels until you find the screw heads. Unfortunately these screws were regular galvanized pieces, not stainless steel, so they will be nearly impossible to remove. Drill them out if you have to, just go easy as you don't want to damage the top of the door more than necessary.
Once you have the three screws out, have an assistant catch the glass as you gently push it inward at the bottom of the windows. Blankets and/or foam pads on the floor are a good idea.
Be prepared for two other things you'll need to do while you have the glass out. There is a water drain trough below the chrome locking rail. Be mentally prepared to find severe rust. Clean it out as best you can. I suggest you contact frost.co.uk and buy a starter/sample kit from POR-15 to rebuild the trough into a water sealed channel again. The second thing you should be prepared to do is remove the door cards and replace the tubing that goes from the trough out the bottom of the door. The old rubber tubing will have cracked off at the top and may have been filling the door with water for years. Hopefully the bottom of the door will not have rotted out. You can buy new original rubber tubing. However, I chose to use vinyl tubing about 3/8" ID by 1/2" OD. This fit the nipples on the bottom of the drain trough and still passes through the drain tube guides at the bottom of the door. My last hopeful wish for you is that the drain tubes have not been buggered for years, that there is no rust on the inside of the door, and that the door cards are not damaged from years of being wet.
A good overview of these repairs and how to refit the parts can be found in Lindsay Porter's book on Mini restoration published by Haynes.
#4
nzminiman
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- Noobies
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- 64 posts
Stage One Kit Fitted
Posted 06 August 2008 - 09:32 AM
wow great. amazing reply.. thanks very much.
I think this is all the answers I need! thank you
I think this is all the answers I need! thank you
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