15 replies to this topic

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

Had another go at starting my Mini today with the help of a local Mini owner. I wont go into what we did, but came to the conclusion that the HIF44 that I had from the guy I bought the engine from wasn't playing ball and that the timing might actually not be too far off.

After a few attempts at cranking the engine on the key, the plugs weren't fouled up with fuel so we decided to swap the carb for the one off my old 998 to see if the carb was at fault. Tried cranking it again and it sounded a bit more promising, took a plug out and the smell of fuel was there this time. Play was called off due to the battery being dead, so its on charge now and I'm going to give it another go later.

In the meantime I've got the HIF44 on the floor in the shed, I've no idea what I'm doing so have only taken it apart a little bit.











The needle is very loose in the piston ( is it called that?) and all the internal surfaces are patchy black in colour, can be seen in pictures. I'm going to try my best to clean it up without disturbing anything too much, but surely that needle should be tightly held in place with the screw?

[Jupitus]

No - the needle is likely to be a sprung type, which moves and automatically centres in the jet.

Clean it all up carefully... if you do dismantle it make sure you get LOTS of detailed pictures first. The float chamber is actually quite straightforward to do, so give that a good clean and remove that float to check the needle valve is opening and closing as it should... beyond that you might want to get hold of an SU HIF service or gasket kit and possibly a rebuild guide book

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

This might be going a little deeper than I would ever dare to go.

[taffy1967]

http://www.burlen.co.uk/

[Broomer]

use loads of carb cleaner or an airline, bolt it all back together and hope for the best.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

I've cleaned up the internals best I can with just a clean rag, taken the float out and given all inside there a clean too. I got a length of clean pipe and put it over the fuel in pipe and blew down it to check it wasn't blocked. All the important bits seem to be clean and not worn.

Might do as suggested and buy some carb cleaner then bolt it all back together, then if I find after swapping the carb's back (once the engine is running) that it doesnt work I'll look deeper into things and try a service kit.




Just looked at that website, the HIF44 Single Service Kit has this image :


I can't even see most of those gaskets or parts inside the carb I've got in front of me

Edited by MiNi2iNFiNiTi, 08 August 2008 - 05:24 PM.

[Jammy]

Had another go at starting my Mini today with the help of a local Mini owner. I wont go into what we did, but came to the conclusion that the HIF44 that I had from the guy I bought the engine from wasn't playing ball and that the timing might actually not be too far off.

After a few attempts at cranking the engine on the key, the plugs weren't fouled up with fuel so we decided to swap the carb for the one off my old 998 to see if the carb was at fault.

What engine size is this on?

Was the engine running before with this carb? Has the carb got the right needle in it for the engine, and/or, was the carb tuned on this engine before?

A 998 carb won't work very well on a 1275, and a HIF44 carb won't work very well on a 998.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

What engine size is this on?

A 1275 from a Metro.

Was the engine running before with this carb? Has the carb got the right needle in it for the engine, and/or, was the carb tuned on this engine before?

I can't say, the guy I bought the engine off said I had the choice of two carbs and I just picked the one that was on the shelf as I didn't know what was what.

A 998 carb won't work very well on a 1275, and a HIF44 carb won't work very well on a 998.

It's just a test really, once I know the engine will start I will do whatever I need to to get either this carb working as it should or buy myself one that is known to be working.

[jwb_moto]

What engine size is this on?

A 1275 from a Metro.

Was the engine running before with this carb? Has the carb got the right needle in it for the engine, and/or, was the carb tuned on this engine before?

I can't say, the guy I bought the engine off said I had the choice of two carbs and I just picked the one that was on the shelf as I didn't know what was what.

A 998 carb won't work very well on a 1275, and a HIF44 carb won't work very well on a 998.

It's just a test really, once I know the engine will start I will do whatever I need to to get either this carb working as it should or buy myself one that is known to be working.

Before you try starting the engine again disconnect the the fuel supply to the carb and crank the engine over.

This will check if the fuel pump is working correctly, you may not be getting a good enough supply of fuel

I had it once where the pump fubared and dumped a load of petrol in the sump luckily i checked the oil and found it straight away.

[Jammy]

Theres a strong possibility then that the needle in that HIF44 is wrong for the spec of your engine. Might be able to get it going though with it, can you read the code off the base of the needle?

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

jwb_moto - yes I've done that, pumping fuel just fine.

Jammie - it just says BEJ

Edited by MiNi2iNFiNiTi, 08 August 2008 - 06:16 PM.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

Came across this site, with no reference to 'BEJ'

Looks like I need the BDL needle?

[Petes.one]

BEJ is the needle for the standard unleaded Metro 1275. BDL is the MG Metro version - a bit richer to suit the higher compression and longer duration cam.
HIF carbs are not difficult to overhaul if you are careful and lay out all your parts in order. If you unscrew the shaft that holds the float in place, remove the float (watching out for the needle part of the fuel valve that will come with it), you can then unscrew the needle valve and check that there is no gunk blocking the fuel flow. Most HIF carbs have a small gauze filter on the base of the needle valve assembly so check that it is clear. It's the most likely place for any blockage. It's a good idea to replace any rubber parts as the unleaded fuel additives are not rubber friendly. Idealy that's the seal on the bottom of the fuel bowl, the seals either side of the main spindle shaft, and the 'O' rings and seal on the choke mechanism. If you look up Metro 1300 on the Burlen site you'll find an exploded diagram of the carb and a list of the individual parts to order.

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

I'll do that, thanks mate

[MiNi2iNFiNiTi]

I know this is a thread revival but it is my own thread and its still concerning the carb

I thought I had a HIF44 but someone I known tells me its actually a HIF38. As you can read above, when I took it apart to clean it up I remember it had a BEJ needle fitted.



First off is this the right needle? I installed WinSU but cant really get my head around it.

Secondly, do I need a HIF44 carb ideally for my engine?