9 replies to this topic

[TVS]

My partner has just bought a SPi '92 Mini a couple of weeks ago and I'm now in the process of finishing it off (abandoned project) and getting it though an MOT. However the previous owner was converting it to a carb and has removed all of the EFi system - manifolds, tank, the lot! How can I be sure the engine in it now is the origional SPi engine as the engine number is missing? This may sound odd but it was being sold by the owners father after it had been layed up for 7 years and he didn't know anything what his son was doing with it. Are there any identifying features like a crank position sensor I can check for?
I would also be very grateful for details of the engine spec for these....
Am I right in thinking they are basicly an MG Metro engine but with valve seat inserts for running unleaded AND the bigger 1.4" inlet valve? I assume they also have the MG metro camshaft? I'm also guessing that its a 3.1 final drive? A CR value would also be great so if I swap the head I can work back for the chamber volumes for a given CR.

Much appreciated! Toby

[taffy1967]

Well the only information I can bring forth is: -

Source Vehicle : Mini Cooper Spi
Engine type & CC : A+ 1275 cc Transverse mounted
Fueling : Single Point Injection
Engine features :
10.1:1 Compression Ratio
Servo Assisted Brakes
95 Ron Unleaded petrol
Pre-engaged starter
Gearbox features :
Std. Ratio Rod Change gearbox with Pot Joints
3.21:1 Final Drive

And yes it is essentially the MG Metro engine, but as you described with updates.

[datsun100a]

look for a crank position sensor just above the starter on the transfer case. Not sure if there is much else as they are a 'detuned' metro engine. If the sensor is gone then a hole should still be there.

[DaveRob]

The SPi, I believe had a couple of CR's.... the cooper had the 10:1 and the sprtites etc were a touch lower. also the coopers cam and ECU were different to the other SPi cars. If the crank sensor under the starter motor is missing then the hole should be their but prob should have a plate over it to stop the muck getting in. If you look in the hole, with a torch, then the flywheel should have the reluctor ring fitted for the sensor to pick up on. Assuming its still got the verto clutch that is....

Hope this helps

Rob

[TVS]

Thanks for the replies!
If I where to guess - the Coopers has a MG Metro cam and the others just the normal A+ metro cam?

" If you look in the hole, with a torch, then the flywheel should have the reluctor ring fitted for the sensor to pick up on. Assuming its still got the verto clutch that is...."

Interestingly I did notice that it has the original type of clutch cover so I can assume its the non verto clutch? Would somebody really go the trouble of changing the cluch for the earlier type or is this a good indication its not the original engine?? I'll have to check under the starter motor for the crank position sensor hole to be sure...

I've got a SPi exhaust manifold and complete exhaust system to fit - does it still need the cat at this age? But will be running it on a HIF38 on a water heated manifold with a MG Metro electronic dizzy - which I'll have a look at the advance curve in. At a later date I'm looking at fitting a cleaned up head with a CR of around 10:1 and a 997Cooper cam.

Thanks, Toby

[datsun100a]

standard spi's have an injection specific cam which has a lower lift than a A+ metro cam. Not sure about the cooper spi cam but pretty sure it is something closer to a standard A+ cam but yet again is injection specific. The cat is a bit of a issue, some say it should be there some say it doesn't. Better to check with the mot people they are the ones paid to know. My own car was an spi converted to carb etc with the cat removed and it passed mot emissions test with flying colours, contarery to what a lot of people say.

[DaveRob]

Interestingly I did notice that it has the original type of clutch cover so I can assume its the non verto clutch?...............................

Would somebody really go the trouble of changing the cluch for the earlier type or is this a good indication its not the original engine??

I think the actual cover is universal so in response to the first bit make s no difference what you are looking at you need to see if the reluctor ring is on the flywheel. the difference in the CLUTCH is the fly and pressure also the pre verto clutch has a lonmg movement arm and the slave and other internals are different.

YES you would change the clutch IF YOU WANTED SERIOUS PERFORMANCE. the reason is that the pre verto clutch has far more abillity to be lightened. My own rebuild has the old style cltch but has the reluctor ring moved to the other end of the engine and re sited the crank sensor. If you have a inj to carb conversion you should have a VERTO clutch.... if you have a modifided engine the it might have been changed to pre verto style and retained the oridg engine...... Just out of interest where is the heater take off and is their a bypass hose on the head to block..... if either or both of these are on the car its going to be an engine older than SPi

hope this helps

Rob

[TVS]

"I think the actual cover is universal so in response to the first bit make s no difference what you are looking at you need to see if the reluctor ring is on the flywheel. the difference in the CLUTCH is the fly and pressure also the pre verto clutch has a lonmg movement arm and the slave and other internals are different."

I though the Verto clutch had a different arm with the slave cylinder repositioned on to the cover... or is that just the metro?

"Just out of interest where is the heater take off and is their a bypass hose on the head to block..... if either or both of these are on the car its going to be an engine older than SPi"

For the first time I'm not doing the welding work on the shell and I only did a look around for the car for welding/mechanical work before we (she!) bought it so this is why I can't be sure of some of the details... I do remember seeing a heater take off on the normal place on the head and its defiantly an A+ block so I don't think there will be a bypass hose. Its defiantly a 1275 by the ports in the head but it must therefore be an earlier engine. Its very frustrating not knowing what it is actually from!


Thanks all! Toby

[Sprocket]

The SPi engines can usualy be identified in a few ways, however, it is easy to remove these identifying parts. For all intent in purpose, the SPi engine is exactly the same as any 1275 A+ unleaded engine excepting the camshaft.

Identifying marks.

Mechanical fuel pump blanking plate is fitted
Water pump has the bypass hose blanked off
The head has the heater take of blanked ( not drilled)
The head has the temperature sender blanked ( not drilled)
The head has no bypass
If an unleaded head, which it should be, the horizontal oil gallery plug towards the back of the head on the thermostat end should be an aluminium rivot.
All SPi A+ blocks have WFM 1024 cast in, just under the head ( not specific to SPi but will identify the later A+ block)
The SPi and carb blocks of the same period have an 'olive' and 'back nut' arangement for the oil feed pipe, rather than the bajo bolt and flare nut as used all years previous
The oil gallery plug directly below the oil relief valve will be an aluminium rivot
The timing chain cover breather can will be the flattened type, not hammered flat, but formed flat
The flywheel has several teeth in the back for the crank position sensor
The flywheel housing has a hole to take the crank position sensor just under the starter motor, right up in the corner of the housing.
The gearbox will have the 3.2:1 final drive ratio
The transfer housing breather can is of the angled type



Theres a few things there, I cant think of any others if there are any. As I said most of those can be changed or removed, and some of them are shared with the later carb engines.

[TVS]

Thanks for all the help... got the car back and its defiantly not a spi engine!
Toby