5 replies to this topic

[brandon7]

Just finishing off assembling my front frame for test fit of rear cage this weekend hopfully. (ill get my project page up once thats in)

When tightening down the swivel hub joints on top and bottom of the hub, the kit is supplied with metal shims which slot inside the lock tab. Does anyone know roughly how many you need? I guess this depends on the correct torque setting, which..... I cant find in my Haynes Manual or anything??

Also while im here, On the builder DVD is mentions 50ft/Lbs of torque for the bottom arms and im going round the frame tightening most things to this. Does anyone think and parts of the subframe should be tighter or looser in their opinion. I dont want a Wheel falling off, risk cracking alloy components or crushing bearings...

Also Tower bolts? Just FT (Fu**ing Tight)

This could be a possible useful thread for others if somone had a list of tourque settings for most components(perfect)

Edited by brandon7, 03 September 2008 - 10:11 PM.

[koss]

You need to read guessworks thread on ball joints in the mini section somewhere. (its good).
And yes all other bolts to FT, they should be nylock nuts on the rest of the kit and should not come loose.

[z cars chris]

those front joints are a bit of a pain to set up as you have to get them shimmed correctly
ive also found that they "bed in" after a short time and need re shimming fairly quickly then seem to settle down
make sure they are well greased as well
the alloy rocker bolts should be 25 ft lbs to avoid over stressing them
rear arm rose joints on the leading edge of the trailing arms need to be as tight as you can get them without giving yourself a hernia
also after you have run the car a hundred miles give everything a check again the powdercoating on all the metal frame parts settles in after a period as its crushed in effect between the washers and the frame its normal to get another quarter of a turn on the nuts after a few miles
the powdercoating wont flake off but gets flattened between the bolt and the frame slightly which loosens the bolt after a few miles
usually when you have tightened them the second time they are fine but a regular spanner check is always a good thing
chris

[Pete649]

the alloy rocker bolts should be 25 ft lbs to avoid over stressing them

Are these the bolts which run through the alloy 90 degree V shaped piece which bolts to the top end of the shocker at one end and the drop link at the other? Ive got mine currently torqued to 50 ft lbs.

[Guess-Works.com]

Turret bolts 50lbft

As for ball joints... it's a wise idea to bed them in with some valve paste first in the cup, done with a leccy drill and a steady hand...

When you come to fit, put all the shims in which came with the kit, then torque up, then progessively remove shims and re-tighten until pin can swivel with no binding and no up an down movement.. with the lower pin, first set as per the top with the spring removed, and then when correct rebuild with spring, which means it should go solid.

[andydlc]

Hi Mark,

Make sure everythings clean and tight for your ball joints then it is a case of trial and error, you will have to add shims until they feel like normal ball joints, its a bit of a crappy design really, the alternate is to use metro hubs which have screw in ball joints that require no shimming whatsoever..

have to pop up and have a gander at some point soon...!

Andy