9 replies to this topic

[Mart8V]

Have got the kit to fix the leak from the back of my gearbox where the change rod is located. Is this an easy job to do?

Any tips before I embark on it?!

[DaveRob]

buy a PROPER roll pin punch preferably with a dimple on the end for location.... this makes the job of getting the roll pins out a breeze..... much better than old drill bits and nails.

Get mini up as high as you can at the front, best on ramps. Make sure you drain the oil before starting lol....... after that Its not too hard a job..... maybe 30mins if all goes to plan..... hour including tea break and celebratory icecream at the end....... buy new roll pin tho....you dont want it all comming adrift when its running again..........really you dont.

hope this helps

Rob

[maddogmcg]

you may have to move the gear stick about to move the link into the correct position to drive the roll pin out ,and make sure you knock out the one nearest to the engine .

When its off remove the gaitor thing that covers the shaft going itno the 'box and you will be able to see the offending oil seal, you can lever this out with a small sharp screwdriver or similar .

get the kit with the aluminium spacer included ,this is to give extra support to the rod as it goes into the 'box and helps the seal last longer put spacer in first then carefullt drive oil seal in using a socket .

refit the gaitor thing and refit the connector ,its easier to fit a 5 mm bolt thro ,and easier if you ever have to take it off again but make sure you use a high tensile bolt with minimum thread and a aerotite or nyloc nut .

[taffy1967]

Chances are you'll already have the aluminium spacer and 'O' ring, so don't bother trying to remove it as it'll only come out with a gearbox strip and for god sake don't try fitting 2, otherwise you'll have a devil of a job getting it back out.

I know someone who did it and no it wasn't me thankfully.

[Pauly]

Also put it into reverse, makes removing the roll pin really easy.

Paul.

[Mart8V]

Couldn't get the roll pin out even with a proper punch / drift. Ar5e.

Can wait until I do the engine change in a few weeks!

[taffy1967]

Sometimes it helps to hold the rod steady with a piece of wood or something, so it doesn't bounce around as you pour blows on it with the roll punch and hammer.

[Kam]

Sometimes it helps to hold the rod steady with a piece of wood or something, so it doesn't bounce around as you pour blows on it with the roll punch and hammer.

Mart8V - I had the same problem a little while ago and posted it up on here aswell, taffy also told me the above and thats what done it in the end, you need to jam something between both rods to keep the select rod steady.

I used a rubber exhaust mount that happened to be lying around and jammed it solid, couple of blows later the pin started to budge, you do need to give it some welly though so the more its jammed solid the better.

[taffy1967]

Sometimes it helps to hold the rod steady with a piece of wood or something, so it doesn't bounce around as you pour blows on it with the roll punch and hammer.

Mart8V - I had the same problem a little while ago and posted it up on here aswell, taffy also told me the above and thats what done it in the end, you need to jam something between both rods to keep the select rod steady.

I used a rubber exhaust mount that happened to be lying around and jammed it solid, couple of blows later the pin started to budge, you do need to give it some welly though so the more its jammed solid the better.

What I was right? Well burger me.

[Mart8V]

Thanks for the tip. Will be dropping my 1330 into the car in a few weeks so will be doing plenty of work then. Will remember that!