vac leaks, temp sensor, stepper motor, TPS have been checked), so it's time to change it.
Just to qualify the statements below... in a former life I was a Serviceability Engineer... It was my responsibility to make sure a product design was readily serviceable AFTER it had been assembled.
Problem 1: Oxygen Sensor location is the product of demented Engineers who have never maintained a car in their lives.
So is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Post '96 models were different... no wonder... the warranty costs must have been
totally over the moon!
Problem 2: A normal Oxygen sensor removal socket can't be used as the location is too tight for it.
Had to use a clever tool known as an Oxygen sensor offset socket that WILL fit down over the Oxygen sensor in its
reduculous location.
Problem 3: Rust-busting chemicals, lots of heat from a propane torch, shocking the sensor with a 3lb hammer and a drift, using a
massively torquey air impact wrench, and a 4ft long levering pipe WON'T BUDGE it.
Problem 4: The marvelous offset socket is so rugged it has now skipped off the peaks of the "nut bosses" on the Oxygen sensor
and thus, I can now NEVER produce enough tourque to remove it without use of a gigantic pipe wrench... although it's
doubtful there's enough torque on EARTH to do so.
An observation: American cars NEVER have oxygen sensors located in cast exhaust manifolds... they are ALWAYS located
downstream in the post-manifold, pre-catylizer plumbing. So why the F*&% did Rover engineers place it where it IS?
Q: If I don't care to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds just to work up a hernia trying to wrench off the old POS
(last word being *******) sensor with a massive pipe wrench, Why can't I draw the line right where it is and simply drill a hole
in the post-engine, pre-catylizer downstream "plumbing" and mig on a threded sensor mounting boss?
Edited by AM-DB5, 08 September 2008 - 09:15 PM.
