. i was just wondering if i was doing anything wrong and a few tips would help.thanks chris
How To Remove Stubborn Ball Joints
Started by
minifan08
, Sep 24 2008 03:36 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
minifan08
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Stage One Kit Fitted
Posted 24 September 2008 - 03:36 PM
hi iv just started to strip down my 1990 mini city, when i came to remove the top ball joint on the passenger side swivel hub i use the ball joint splitter (scissor type) as normal i tightened it up and waited for the bang when it came it was not the ball joint but the splitter end snapping clean off . i was just wondering if i was doing anything wrong and a few tips would help.
thanks chris
. i was just wondering if i was doing anything wrong and a few tips would help.thanks chris
#2
Ethel
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 03:49 PM
Probably just a duff splitter. Shouldn't be able to break one without using a mega big bar to wind it up.
#3
minifan08
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 03:51 PM
quite possibly cus it was only a normal ring spannerProbably just a duff splitter. Shouldn't be able to break one without using a mega big bar to wind it up.
#4
pantera2075
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 04:00 PM
Cheap splitters will do this with regularity. I always now use the "fork and belt it one" type, but they do goose the rubbers more readily.
#5
Sleepy Stu
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 05:58 PM
Cheap splitters will do this with regularity. I always now use the "fork and belt it one" type, but they do goose the rubbers more readily.
Im with Pantera. Usually i can free them with a mighty big blow from a lump hammer however the fork is also very good. As stated though it does screw the rubbers!!
#6
dklawson
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 06:33 PM
As stated above, tighten the splitter until it seems ridiculously tight, then bring out the big hammer and give the splitter's bolt a strong blow (like driving a nail) to shock the joint. Don't count on the force alone to unseat the tapered parts.
#7
wile e coyote
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Posted 24 September 2008 - 08:29 PM
Yep probably just a duff splitter.. helps to leave the nut on the thread at the top of the shank to spread the load a bit, after removing completely & greasing first (to make sure you can eaily get it off again after the taper is free) I've got a cheapo Clarke one I've had for ages without any probs - a bit of copperslip in the taper before reassembly will prevent reoccurence though....having said that nothing is as satisfying as lump hammer on a fork splitter - machine mart have a set with 3 interchangable fork sizes that should minmise risk of completely bu^^ering rubbers for about 15 quid
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