9 replies to this topic

[l_wire]

Hi there. Ive just recieved the new fast road cam for my 998. Can anyoine tell me what the best way of fitting it is?? What way must it be put in so that it will run right? Does it need cam timed? if so, does anyone know what the standard valve lift is??
Thanks for any help in advance

[Rosslin Racing]

Hi there. Ive just recieved the new fast road cam for my 998. Can anyoine tell me what the best way of fitting it is?? What way must it be put in so that it will run right? Does it need cam timed? if so, does anyone know what the standard valve lift is??
Thanks for any help in advance

timeing all depends on what cam it is? the cam must be timed for the best results. you should have this information with the cam.

[998dave]

Normally it's an engine out job, though it is possible to do with the engine in, you'd need to remove radiator, cut a hol in the inner wing, and feed the old one out, and new one in that way.

You'd also need to lift the rockers, pushrods, and replace the cam followers, (luckily on a 998 you can do this through the tappet chest covers on the rear of the engine - access might require removing inlet and exhaust manifolds.

Try having a look through Haynes for more details.

Dave

[Ethel]

The cam lift of a standard 998 is 0.25" inlet, 0.235" exhaust. You can fit a small bore cam without a strip down, even in the car. You really need a new head gasket and cam followers. There will be some info on cam timing online and the cam manufacturer will have info on timing if it's not included. To get the most out of the cam it should be timed but it will still work if you just pop it in.

[l_wire]

Normally it's an engine out job, though it is possible to do with the engine in, you'd need to remove radiator, cut a hol in the inner wing, and feed the old one out, and new one in that way.

You'd also need to lift the rockers, pushrods, and replace the cam followers, (luckily on a 998 you can do this through the tappet chest covers on the rear of the engine - access might require removing inlet and exhaust manifolds.

Try having a look through Haynes for more details.

Dave

The engine is out. Its getting a full rebuild. I bought a cam kit as i know to change the followers. The kit includes all of this plus new valve springs. I was just wondering is there a certain way the cam must go in so that cam timing wouldnt be needed.

[haz]

as ethel said, it will work whichever way really

at the very least you need to line up the dots on the timing chain cogs... use a straight edge to check

besides, if you havnt got a vernia adjustable timing gear set, the dots is all you have to go from anyway i think

[Ethel]

No, cam timing is done because it's impossible to produce a cam that allows for differences in cam drive gear. If you've got the engine in bits it's well worth doing, only requires an offset woodroof key.

[l_wire]

does the cam just get put in any way round (like 360 degrees round) or is there a slot that it fits in?

[wile e coyote]

Simple method 1 -

a) undo & remove timing gears

b) take pushrods and tappets out...

c) do not move crank & note key on current cam - make a corresponding reference mark for position with tippex

d) undo cam retaining plate and withdraw cam with a very, very steady hand - cam bearings are very very soft and easily damaged

e) upon removal make sure yours is a slot drive cam - if some numpty in time immemoriam has fitted a spider drive cam strip the engine to recover spider from sump (ps highly unlikely) but I've seen it happen - if so adjourn to pub...

f) very, very carefully - that steady hand again, insert new cam, and align to tippex mark

g) fit new cam bearing plate

h) bin the simplex chain set up and apply a duplex kit - a cheapo std one about 20 quid - or at very least a new simplex chain (if using a duplex some minor mods may be required - memory failing me a little here)

i) align dot to dot - pop in an offset woodruff key if needed - couple of quid from moss - makes a big difference when you get it right

j) refit & tighten the tensioner

k) pull the engine through twice - if dots still aligned - job done

l) reassemble everything alse

Jobs a goodun..... - well in the right ballpark anyway

[Rosslin Racing]

with the kit should be a leflet, kent have booklets with all the cams they do and the lift etc you need to know what the Full lift is in degrees will also be in the booklet set number one cylinder at TDC mount a protactor to the crank and a marker bit of wire turn the crank to say 106 degrees this will be the position of the crank at full lift of the camshaft. now with the cam fitted turn the camshaft unitl you reach full lift you will need a dial gauge on the inlet lobe which is the second hole from the front (lots forget and time the cam on the exhaust) now fit the timing chain system remember not to move anything. once fitted double check your work if your happy carry on.