Jump to content


Photo

How to fit a head unit from scratch in a Mini


  • Please log in to reply
31 replies to this topic

#16 redhotmini

redhotmini

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,607 posts

Posted 14 July 2007 - 10:39 PM

cool one less wire to worry about!

#17 jmetal88

jmetal88

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 289 posts
  • Local Club: okMini

Posted 15 July 2007 - 03:24 AM

Well, just got the head unit wired to the fuse box. Interestingly enough, the best grounding point I could find was the inside of the wing nut that holds on the air filter box. It still makes odd noises, but I can tell they're caused by a grounding issue within the MP3 player that's causing it to pick up on the whirring of the hard drive. It generally works fine off battery power though. The odd sounds that match the engine running seem to be gone, for the most part.

#18 205 tref

205 tref

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 53 posts

Posted 24 July 2007 - 05:19 PM

are you sure this isn't good old fashioned suppression as a problem? funny noises matching engine speed definitely are. basically the issue then is that your coil and/or ignition leads are broadcasting the sparks as they happen.

Shielding either the cause or the affected component (the head and any signal leads) is the real answer, but a set of suppressed HT leads (most decent ones were, these days I thought!) and decent screened lead between mp3 and head ought to cover it. There are RF filters you can stick in line with the power supply to audio gear but YMMV there i think... :P

As for earth points, I always just used to use a big self tapper through any unused hole available to hold a ring terminal down!

i have a suspicion that the internal grounding issue in the mp3 player may be cross talk on the USB socket you say you added? Or maybe the wiring used there? I'm guessing the MP3 will pick up/send out signals (data) through it's USB too so it might not be quite so straightforward as simply supplying any power there and potentially the thing coud be sending part of a digital signal down the line or attempting to interpret unsupressed ignition RF noise... sounds like a fun bug hunt! :(

#19 schneill

schneill

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 125 posts
  • Local Club: Tyred And Exhausted

Posted 31 July 2007 - 02:42 PM

I've got a battery cut out on my dashboard, so if wanted a head unit, easily just run the constant live off of that. But i'm sure its easier to run a thin bit of wire through a small hole in the dash rather than run the original battery cable into the dash area. As for tidy wire installation, i'd go under the carpets down either side of the exhaust tunnel. Think there are holes in the cross member too (they don't look like rust on my car but i may be wrong), you could thread the wires through those holes (can't go over it, can't go round it, gotta go through it, we're going on a bear hunt...).

#20 datmofo2004

datmofo2004

    Starting My Mini Up

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 23 September 2007 - 12:28 PM

MadMax, you're awesome!!!! You really know what you are talking about, but if I was clueless about car audio and electronics I'd be a little confused. Allow me elaborate on your posting.

color code of 16 gage wire that you will need to install your head unit

Yellow- for your 12v constant
Red - for your 12v accessory
Black - for your ground

12v constant = is the 12v terminal which is on without the ignition swith being engaged = your Yellow wire should be connected to that terminal of the car's fusebox. When routing this wire through your car ensure the fuse from this terminal is removed.

12v accessory = is the 12v terminal which is off until the ignition swith is engaged = your Red wire should be connected to that terminal of the car's fusebox. When routing this wire through your car ensure the ignition is not engaged.

Ground = is the chasis (metal) of your car = your Black wire should be connected to your car's chasis.

color code of speaker wire:

white - front - left
gray - front - right
green - rear - left
purple - rear - right

I hope this will help you understand a bit better, if you have more questions just shoot me an email

Attached Files



#21 kcchan

kcchan

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 874 posts

Posted 01 January 2008 - 05:09 PM

ANy chance of seeing those pics from the first post?

#22 Dirk130

Dirk130

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 71 posts

Posted 14 March 2008 - 03:49 AM

Those pic would be nice :crazy:

#23 Middleman

Middleman

    Learner Driver

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 19 posts

Posted 02 April 2008 - 07:33 AM

Thanks for a great guide. When it comes to wire would this be ok to use? I don't really want to skimp and cause a wire fire, but my mate has masses of that stuff that he's willing to give me. Cheers

#24 RobJaxon

RobJaxon

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 225 posts
  • Local Club: dont know

Posted 02 April 2008 - 10:43 AM

yeh fine

#25 langers2k

langers2k

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 419 posts
  • Local Club: Cambs Crew - ECMC

Posted 14 April 2008 - 06:23 PM

Thanks for a great guide. When it comes to wire would this be ok to use? I don't really want to skimp and cause a wire fire, but my mate has masses of that stuff that he's willing to give me. Cheers


It depends on your head unit, the wire you linked is rated for 6A, most headunits I have seen are fused at 10A, so if that is the case, the wire is NOT suitable as the wire will melt before the fuse blows.

Check out the fuse on the back of your head unit and get wire that is rated to at least that rating. :D

#26 yellow-peril

yellow-peril

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts

Posted 21 June 2008 - 09:16 AM

That is so helpful mate, you're a life saver.

#27 danny2009

danny2009

    Previously 'gerrard'

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,068 posts

Posted 11 August 2008 - 11:05 PM

i installed my cd player in yesterday works fine if you follow the instructions dint use a multi meter (dont no wether i should ov) works fine i juts chose a ramdom fuse connection as there a 3 spare and it works fine cheers for walkthrough

#28 dsgoody

dsgoody

    Super Mini Mad

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 505 posts
  • Location: Bristol
  • Local Club: Gert Lush Minis

Posted 13 August 2008 - 01:48 AM

Just a quick question, when in use will a car stereo draw power from the switched feed or the permanent feed?

#29 Doctor_63

Doctor_63

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 168 posts

Posted 16 August 2008 - 06:47 PM

i get how to do it but i need some pics for guidance

#30 Joloke08

Joloke08

    Not banned but still weird

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 828 posts

Posted 01 September 2008 - 07:57 AM

Ive gotta agree with everybody else here,yup the guide seems very comprehensive but without pictures?
Mad Max still seems to use here it says he was on a few days ago,so if your reading this max or anybody else please put up a new post with some pictures that stay there!

I also find it a bit frustrating because all these instructions seem to be for old carb models i have an SPI that was never fitted with a stereo and a different type of fusebox :shy:

The older style of fuseboxes had the terminals where you could physically follow the wires whereas mine doesnt :shy:
Surely somebody else with an SPI has had to fit a stereo from sctratch and can provide exact pictures of which wires to use for the switched and constant feeds?

Huggz
Jodie :shy:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares