How to fit a head unit from scratch in a Mini
Posted 15 July 2007 - 03:24 AM
Posted 24 July 2007 - 05:19 PM
Shielding either the cause or the affected component (the head and any signal leads) is the real answer, but a set of suppressed HT leads (most decent ones were, these days I thought!) and decent screened lead between mp3 and head ought to cover it. There are RF filters you can stick in line with the power supply to audio gear but YMMV there i think...
As for earth points, I always just used to use a big self tapper through any unused hole available to hold a ring terminal down!
i have a suspicion that the internal grounding issue in the mp3 player may be cross talk on the USB socket you say you added? Or maybe the wiring used there? I'm guessing the MP3 will pick up/send out signals (data) through it's USB too so it might not be quite so straightforward as simply supplying any power there and potentially the thing coud be sending part of a digital signal down the line or attempting to interpret unsupressed ignition RF noise... sounds like a fun bug hunt!
Posted 31 July 2007 - 02:42 PM
Posted 23 September 2007 - 12:28 PM
color code of 16 gage wire that you will need to install your head unit
Yellow- for your 12v constant
Red - for your 12v accessory
Black - for your ground
12v constant = is the 12v terminal which is on without the ignition swith being engaged = your Yellow wire should be connected to that terminal of the car's fusebox. When routing this wire through your car ensure the fuse from this terminal is removed.
12v accessory = is the 12v terminal which is off until the ignition swith is engaged = your Red wire should be connected to that terminal of the car's fusebox. When routing this wire through your car ensure the ignition is not engaged.
Ground = is the chasis (metal) of your car = your Black wire should be connected to your car's chasis.
color code of speaker wire:
white - front - left
gray - front - right
green - rear - left
purple - rear - right
I hope this will help you understand a bit better, if you have more questions just shoot me an email
Posted 14 April 2008 - 06:23 PM
Thanks for a great guide. When it comes to wire would this be ok to use? I don't really want to skimp and cause a wire fire, but my mate has masses of that stuff that he's willing to give me. Cheers
It depends on your head unit, the wire you linked is rated for 6A, most headunits I have seen are fused at 10A, so if that is the case, the wire is NOT suitable as the wire will melt before the fuse blows.
Check out the fuse on the back of your head unit and get wire that is rated to at least that rating.
Posted 11 August 2008 - 11:05 PM
Posted 13 August 2008 - 01:48 AM
Posted 01 September 2008 - 07:57 AM
Mad Max still seems to use here it says he was on a few days ago,so if your reading this max or anybody else please put up a new post with some pictures that stay there!
I also find it a bit frustrating because all these instructions seem to be for old carb models i have an SPI that was never fitted with a stereo and a different type of fusebox
The older style of fuseboxes had the terminals where you could physically follow the wires whereas mine doesnt
Surely somebody else with an SPI has had to fit a stereo from sctratch and can provide exact pictures of which wires to use for the switched and constant feeds?
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