
How To Get Those Tight Door/bonnet /boot Gaps
Started by
sonikk4
, Oct 20 2011 02:35 PM
64 replies to this topic
#61
Posted 17 March 2016 - 09:06 PM
Thanks guys so 3.2 would defo give me enough to play with :) will get on to that get some ordered :) cheers if I can get this door straight it will be on to the next.
#62
Posted 17 March 2016 - 09:09 PM
What i will suggest though to prevent distortion is to use Frosts Cold Front. This does help believe me.
http://www.frost.co....14oz-414ml.html
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http://www.frost.co....14oz-414ml.html
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#63
Posted 22 May 2017 - 06:41 PM
You got skills buddy great post thanks,,
#64
Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:25 PM
Nice gaps, I have used the welding rod method before, works well! Can I just suggest that people build their doors up before adjusting the gaps, as the weight of the glass and winder mech' etc can change the doors position slightly, don't want to go through all that and have paint rubbing off when you open and close the door! ( I learnt this through personal experience
)
In BIW they would hang a weight on the door to simulate a fully trimmed door, once it was profiled they would remove weight and door would rise indicating the track profile for operators, one thing people may not be aware of is that they would also jack the door aperture diagonal to help also
#65
Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:36 PM
In my old age I've forgot to mention that we used welding rods stitched to flanges to get nice gaps and profiles, we would then lead load as this would be a lot stronger than using Tet. Nothing worse than having the edge fall off, plus water can get behind and pop it off
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