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Pro-Mo Kit Nr. 38


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#16 BlackMagic

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:01 PM

Hi,
some more pictures of fitting the carbon front. It was a great work from the guys of carbonweezels! Nearly perfect fitting! Respect!!

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#17 BlackMagic

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:45 AM

Hello,
I have a new problem. My Mini takes u in 7000-9000 / min, no acceleration. On a motorcycle, there is one for the carburetor vacuum hose in the airbox. The pipe on the right side of the carburetor bank goes with me into the open. How to get there Vacuum? Is it enough to put a tube into the air filter box?
regards
Christian

#18 BlackMagic

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 05:31 PM

Hello,
My mini is finally finished and ready for the road. However, until Friday I had the problem that the engine had no acceleration. When accelerating the mini stuttered terribly. First I installed a Dynojet kit and larger carburetor jets. Unfortunately, it was not improved. Then I just pulled a T-shirt through the air filter, and then it worked.
Did you have the problem that the engine got too much air, and the mixture does not fit? The air filter also does not completely close, and is leaking on the engine. Or have I forgotten something? Now my mini works, but only with a T-shirt over the air filter box :X
...
regards
Chris

Attached File  P1030460.JPG   78.67K   59 downloads



#19 BlackMagic

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 07:48 AM

Hello,
I have a question about the water temperature. Is it normal that the temperature rises to 95 degrees?
regards
Chris



#20 racerlike

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 04:25 PM

I've not got mine running yet but I believe from reading in other threads that the engines do run quite hot.
They don't get the same level of airflow to the radiator as they do on a bike.
I know from my R6 that as soon as you stop in traffic for a few minutes the temperature rises very quick.
On the move it sits at 78-80 degrees so with the bike engine enclosed in the front of the mini I would expect to see higher temperatures such as you've described.

#21 BlackMagic

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 06:48 PM

Hello,
today it was not so hot, and as the temperature remained so between 75-80 degrees. But the temperature rises when the car stops.
Now I have the problem that it is terribly loud in the car. Do you also have the aluminum bearing called donuts. I think I'll replace the bearings against the rubber bearings. What do you think?
regards
Chris



#22 BlackMagic

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 11:58 AM

Hello

I wanted to ask you, if you have mounted the intake manifold inside of the air filter?

Regards

Chris

 

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#23 racerlike

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:13 PM

The air box sits on top of the rubber intakes and is clamped to each one.

#24 pauly_denham

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 02:51 PM

If you have a leak on the airbox between the pipes of the box and the carbs then this will mean that it wont run properly and the air to fuel mix is mucked up. Make sure the air box is sat on and clamped up correctly this should help with the 'bad acceleration' issue you have. Also making sure the carbs are balanced and that the mixture is set up correctly will all help. Take a couple of the spark plugs out and check what colour they are and this should tell you if you are running lean or rich etc. Will be great to see how yours goes on the road!! And generally the engine should run at between 75-85 degrees normally and then up to 95 if sat in traffic on my 5PW.

 

Cheers and good luck



#25 BlackMagic

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:55 PM

Hello and thank you for the answers. I think that is exactly the problem with the leak. Can someone please send pictures of the airbox. I do not know exactly how to fix the air filter. Here is a picture of my problem. At the moment I still have a T-shirt over it. Because it runs just as good.

 



#26 BlackMagic

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 04:56 PM

Hello and thank you for the answers. I think that is exactly the problem with the leak. Can someone please send pictures of the airbox. I do not know exactly how to fix the air filter. Here is a picture of my problem. At the moment I still have a T-shirt over it. Because it runs just as good.

 

 

Hello and thank you for the answers. I think that is exactly the problem with the leak. Can someone please send pictures of the airbox. I do not know exactly how to fix the air filter. Here is a picture of my problem. At the moment I still have a T-shirt over it. Because it runs just as good.

 

 

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#27 racerlike

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 08:32 PM

Can't find a photo of mine but if i remember you have to squish the tops of the rubber intakes through the holes on the underside of the airbox and then the other end is clamped to the carb or throttle body. Took me a long time to find the correct original clamps as these have a notch in them which lines up on the intakes and they make the best seal

#28 BlackMagic

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 07:11 PM

Hallo,
ich habe die rubber intakes gefunden auf der unterseite der airbox. Sie sind Dicht und die airbox sitzt fest auf dem vergaser. Leider läuft der Motor meiner Meinung immer noch viel zu mager. Ich habe das dynojet kit installiert und die grossen Düsen. Wie habt ihr die Nadeln bei eurem Vergaser eingestellt? Es gibt dort 7 Einkerbungen. Ich werde es morgen nochmal versuchen. Ich bin im Moment auf der dritten einkerbung von unten. Werde auch nochmal die Vergaser synchronisieren.
Viele Grüsse
Chris



#29 BlackMagic

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 07:11 PM

Hello,
I have the rubber intakes found on the bottom of the airbox. They are tight and the airbox sits firmly on the carburetor. Unfortunately, the engine in my opinion is still running too lean. I have the dynojet kit installed and the big jets. How did you set the needles on your carburetor? There are seven notches. I'll try again tomorrow. I am currently on the third notch from the bottom. 'll Even redoing the carb sync.
regards
Chris



#30 BlackMagic

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 07:46 AM

What size of main jets do you drive? I think mine are 130er. Are they too small? Less fuel?






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