20 replies to this topic

[jmmini]

1989 flame, there is a knocking on ignition and whilst running from the rear of the car, it knocks even when the key is half turned so I believe it might be the fuel pump but I'm clueless what to do or where this is. Also, I've looked for posts related to this but none that can help me, sorry for filling the feed with poncy problems but I really want to take her out today :'(

[Tamworthbay]

Are you sure it has an electric fuel pump fitted? Look down the back of the engine and look for a ufo type shape with tubes in and out. If you have one its a mechanical fuel pump. It could be the exhaust knocking if it only happens with the engine running and when stationary as well as moving. If it is the exhaust it may juts have come loose or it could be due to engine mounts or stabiliser bushes breaking down and allowing the engine to rock back and forth.

[jmmini]

Well, there is a "cut off switch" under the steering wheel, its making a loud clacking and she won't start now, it turns over fine and sometimes starts but the cuts out, there is sometimes a slight click from the pump when the key is half turned. But yeah she won't start and I'm 100% sure its fuel that's not getting in (she's half full)

[jmmini]

Only had her about two week now, I don't know what yhe clicking is at all, I'm a real newby

[Spitz]

If you can hear a continuous clicking from the rear....and the car wont start...I would suspect it's out of gas ! ( petrol )

( if electric pump of course )

[Sheikh Pip]

You sure it's from the rear? only it sounds like it's the starter solinoid you can hear! Check the battery connections in the boot though.

Edited by Sheikh Pip, 23 May 2012 - 03:52 PM.

[tiger99]

You really need to have a good look, and come back with some information that people here can use to assist. For instance, what is in the boot? Battery, spare wheel, fuel tank(s), anything else, which might be a pump? Many Minis have been modified, and yours seems to be one of those, so we can't just tell what is or is not there.

Now, what is on the rear subframe? Don't go under it unless you have good ramps or axle stands, and know exactly how to use them. Someone was killed only a few days ago when a car fell on him. If you can get it up on a high kerb or some kind of platform or loading bay, and position it with wheels near the edge (get someone reliable to assist!), you will have sufficient visibility. Or lie down on the ground (helps if the car is on top of a bump of some sort), and if necessary use a torch and mirror.

You will need a Haynes manual sooner or later, so get one now. It will help. But if you don't have it yet, you will see that the subframe is a sort of square frame, with the spare wheel well and battery box hanging down in the middle. The back cross-member (i.e. nearest the back of the car) should be carrying the exhaust, which hangs on a metal strap from a little round rubber thing. The front cross-member of the subframe, whose ends you can see at the sides of the car, just ahead of the wheels, will also carry the exhaust on a rubber mount near the middle.

Now that you have identified the cross-members, look at the longitudinal subframe members, one each side. You will see that they are of open construction, with the suspension rubber sitting inside towards the back, from which an alloy cone or "trumpet" extends forwards to the radius arm. Now look on the inside face of the subframe side members. Are they identical (mirror image)? Does one have an extra bit mounted on it? Has it got two pipes and some wires? If so, you have found the pump.

Next, turn the ignition on, and listen carefully. Is that what clicks? If so, it may be perfectly normal.

I am also concerned about what the cut-off switch is for. Clearly your car has modifications. You really MUST find out exactly what they are, as your insurance company must be told, even if they did not ask (basic insurance law for 200 years or more), or basically your insurance is void.

[tiger99]

Oh, and instead of concluding that it is a fuel problem (which is likely, but not definite yet), please do some basic checks. Remove the carburettor float chamber, and see if it is full or not, at the very least. It would be pointless to chase after a fuel system fault, if in fact the ignition had failed, which is usually more likely.

[tiger99]

Oh, and if the pump is clicking furiously, it is either faulty or sucking air, due to a leaky feed pipe from the tank, or an empty tank. But first, be sure it is the pump.

[jmmini]

I'll get back to you tomorow, burnt my hand bad on the BBQ so I don't want to be poking around, thanks for the help I'm sure it'll get fixed. Also there no need to worry because its book into a mini specialist garrage next thursday if I can't fix it.
Cheers, Joel

[jmmini]

The boot is not in too good a state, there's no spare or battery box but all the connecyions are fine, the pump is under the car on yhe subframe and I'm sure the noise is from it and my tanks reading half full (could this be wrong) Also I put some oil into the carb a few days ago and has run since then, could this be related to it?

[jmmini]

And yeah, the cut of switch is apparenly to prevent theft... But it has been a pain since we got it, the rest of the car is as it left the factory :]

[sledgehammer]

The simplest thing you can do is ...

first check the battery is fully charged (low battery voltage can mess with an electric pump)

go and buy a gallon of petrol

put it in the tank

switch ignition on , and see if the pump slows down /stops clicking

if it does , and the engine starts after a few attempts - it's a faulty fuel gauge

[Carlos W]

Put a galllon of fuel in the tank and see if it starts!

The gauge may be reading wrong!

Edit, beaten to it!

But always start simple

Edited by Carlos W, 23 May 2012 - 06:08 PM.

[jmmini]

Think your spot on with the petrol, got sold a bit of a lemon with this car, I will go for some petrol in the morning