How to get that shine after painting
Started by
cooper_shaz
, Mar 10 2006 08:48 AM
85 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 06 April 2006 - 02:29 PM
hi im recently lookin at a mini near me for sale the paint on the mini is very dull and wondered if using this process the shine would come back thanks a lot Lee
#17
Posted 06 April 2006 - 03:23 PM
Yes it will, you dont need to sand it though, just the polish compound will do..
#18
Posted 06 April 2006 - 07:13 PM
Just been forwarded this link, as this is very useful for me.
Just one question. For the faded red/pink/orange paint issue, can it be done to plastic too?
I presume, lots of water and wet and dry, followed by lots of water and G3, followed by lots of polishing and waxing?
Thanks. Great thread!
Just one question. For the faded red/pink/orange paint issue, can it be done to plastic too?
I presume, lots of water and wet and dry, followed by lots of water and G3, followed by lots of polishing and waxing?
Thanks. Great thread!
#19
Posted 06 April 2006 - 08:25 PM
if you mean painted plastic, then yes. Just be a little more careful as paint generally doesn't adhere to plastic aswell as steel (depending on the preparation, but...) If you have faded pigmented plastic, then no. The colour is gone I'm afraid!
#20
Posted 13 April 2006 - 05:46 PM
where can i get a buffer from and the G3 compound?
#21
Posted 13 April 2006 - 05:55 PM
Paints4U stock the Farecla range along with the proper pads. Machine mart or similar will do a polishing "machine". Google it too for a better all round price. Make sure you get one with an adjustable speed (if it hasn't got one it's more than likely an angle grinder with an attachment, and will run waaaaay too fast for polishing.)
I've not used the Farecla stuff myself (I know a friendly neighbourhood 3M guy!) but by all accounts it seems to do the job very well indeed. I've said it before, but I'll say it again. Stay well clear of T-cut for a decent job as it contains things that aren't any good for your paint!
I've not used the Farecla stuff myself (I know a friendly neighbourhood 3M guy!) but by all accounts it seems to do the job very well indeed. I've said it before, but I'll say it again. Stay well clear of T-cut for a decent job as it contains things that aren't any good for your paint!
#22
Posted 13 April 2006 - 06:19 PM
cheers mate, am i getting the liquid G3 polish? i guess so anyway, how much will i need for a mini?
#23
Posted 13 April 2006 - 06:23 PM
1 litre will do you for a while, although 500ml will do a mini. Don't forget though: lots and lots of water! And don't do it near the neighbours car as it will "fling" a bit and you'll end up doing theirs aswell!
#24
Posted 13 April 2006 - 09:57 PM
wicked! cheers mate! now just need a respray hopefuly soon, then i can have a go
#25
Posted 14 April 2006 - 07:37 AM
Polisher your looking for something that goes from around 600 rpm - 3000 rpm max
A grinder spins at 10,000 rpm and will rip through the paint
Clicky for polisher
G3 paste, you should not need nore than 400g tube £6.69 to do a mini IF YOU ARE FLATTING IT DOWN FIRST other wise as mentioned above a couple tubes
Get it here
Clicky for farecla G3
A grinder spins at 10,000 rpm and will rip through the paint
Clicky for polisher
G3 paste, you should not need nore than 400g tube £6.69 to do a mini IF YOU ARE FLATTING IT DOWN FIRST other wise as mentioned above a couple tubes
Get it here
Clicky for farecla G3
#26
Posted 07 June 2006 - 02:03 PM
bump
#27
Posted 08 June 2006 - 09:22 AM
Just started to do a few bits and pieces on Cookie My paintjob and whilst the colour match is pretty good the resprayed areas are a bit dull and have a slight rough feel.
Will the G3 paste smooth it down a little and bring up the shine again, or would you recommend a fine wet and dry first.
Cheers
Mark
Will the G3 paste smooth it down a little and bring up the shine again, or would you recommend a fine wet and dry first.
Cheers
Mark
#28
Posted 08 June 2006 - 11:18 AM
It is hard to tell from those pictures as in most of them I cant see any reflections.
The one of the rear quarter looks as if the paint is dry, I am guessing this was done using a spray can ?
It looks as if the paint is dry because you have not applied enough with each pass.
You could try G3 straight off but it will take time
To speed up the process you can use wet and dry paper P1200 or P1500
and soapy water, keep wetting the panel as you rub it, you will not need too much pressure, when it feel smooth to the touch then G3 it, again keep the panel wet at all times when using the buffer.
If you do not have a buffer then, use P1500 and get it as smooth as possible then G3 by hand..
hope this helps.
cheers
The one of the rear quarter looks as if the paint is dry, I am guessing this was done using a spray can ?
It looks as if the paint is dry because you have not applied enough with each pass.
You could try G3 straight off but it will take time
To speed up the process you can use wet and dry paper P1200 or P1500
and soapy water, keep wetting the panel as you rub it, you will not need too much pressure, when it feel smooth to the touch then G3 it, again keep the panel wet at all times when using the buffer.
If you do not have a buffer then, use P1500 and get it as smooth as possible then G3 by hand..
hope this helps.
cheers
#29
Posted 08 June 2006 - 11:56 AM
Cheers Shaz. You are right it has all been done with a can. I have a couple more areas still to do, namely the back end and roof/gutters :'( so I will wait till I have done then get the p1500 out try it on an inconspicuous panel and see how I do.
Cheers for the advice
Cheers for the advice
#30
Posted 13 October 2006 - 09:37 AM
Just out of curiosity does anyone now what the mixture of paint, thinners and hardeners are for spray painting a car?
Thanks
Ryan
Thanks
Ryan
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