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How to get that shine after painting


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#46 asmith88

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 05:54 PM

bringing this thread up from the dead, but is there a reason why you wet the paint while flatting, why not do it dry?

#47 clovus

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Posted 29 September 2010 - 02:49 AM

It helps to carry the grit away from the surface and stops the sandpaper clogging so easily, reducing the chances of gouging the paintwork.

#48 karin1002

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 09:10 AM

Wow :withstupid:
unbelievable !! :)))

#49 Mr Joshua

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 09:34 AM

If your painting in 2k you need to be cutting it back 24hrs after you have painted it any longer ang it becomes too hard and you run the risk of leaving scratches and polishing rings.

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#50 devilpaint

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 09:46 AM

just to update-2000 grade wet & dry is now available, as are 1500 velcro sanding discs, best used on a DA sander & best if you know what you are doing with one, but it takes all the hand flatting (well most of it) out of the equation.

#51 quinnyj

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 08:22 PM

that is one lovely looking mini mate

#52 jaystar89

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 12:53 AM

Hey just a few questions - someone above said 'do not use circular motion when w/d sanding' is this true? what way sould we be sanding?

Also for celullous paints - this flatting / compound process is essentual - correct?

cheers

#53 Richard1

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:05 PM

It helps to carry the grit away from the surface and stops the sandpaper clogging so easily, reducing the chances of gouging the paintwork.


Water also keeps it lubricated and cool. The sandpaper generates heat. Just try polishing a windshield and see how much heat is generated. Water becomes the key ingredient.

#54 Retro_10s

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:46 AM

Hey just a few questions - someone above said 'do not use circular motion when w/d sanding'


circular motion leaves swirl marks, and it can lead to low spots on the prepped surface. Horizontal and Vertical Motions are best.

#55 danie garry

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 04:42 PM

If your painting in 2k you need to be cutting it back 24hrs after you have painted it any longer ang it becomes too hard and you run the risk of leaving scratches and polishing rings.



believe this man!! i'm just after spending another day preping my car for another respray the paint looked really really scratched after 2000grit sanding and G3 polishing! i left it 2 weeks before i polished my car because of college and not being at home, time off now so its being done a bit better this time!

thanks for the guide by the way

#56 painter09

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 08:21 PM

real nice job on the mini got to say looks smooth on the paintwork just goes to show with a little hard work and patience what you can achieve.im on the look out for a nice mini for my next project as i do a little painting myself but usualy work on vans for customers.heres a few pics of my escort van didnt need to flat it down with 1500s as it was good to go with some g3 24 hours affter painting using 2 pack.doing a nice fiat ducato soon in pink and black for her in doors any one need any help with painting their pride and joy send me a message allways glad to help.

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#57 sonikk4

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 11:04 AM

The advice i got from the body shop that sprayed Erm with regards to the wet and dry is to use 2000 with plenty of soapy water (we used car shampoo) and keep checking the paper to make sure it does not pick up any dirt. This is what will cause the scratching so will worth looking at it.

Just bought a Silverline polisher off Ebay to see what its like. Its cheap and cheerful but has controllable speed so will give it a go on the Clubman as the paint is not too good before i use it on Erm.

Why the big downer on G3 by the way?? it does seem to be used a lot so why is it not good to use?? The more info the better really especially if you have spent a lot of money on a paint job.

#58 yellow-peril

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 03:02 PM

G3 is dreadful. The whole point of a good compound is that the abrasive particles break down evenly to a very very fine scale as you work up the speeds. The abrasives in G3 are about as advanced as a Neanderthal, they don't leave a good finish and due to the highly abrasive nature of the aforementioned particles the use of G3 often leaves behind its own marring.

A fantastic polish is Scholl Concepts S17+, poops all over G3 or anything else for that matter, water based, highly advanced abrafix abrasive system, quick work time, low on dust, no added water needed, easy to remove splatter if you get any and can finish to a high gloss.

Seriously say no to G3. If you still want some Farecla products I have some (G3 and G10) that you could have cheap. I also have backing plates and tonnes of pads.

Edited by yellow-peril, 30 June 2011 - 03:02 PM.


#59 sonikk4

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 03:45 PM

To late for the G3 i have been using his already and i thought the finish looked ok. I have been having a right go at Paddy's bonnet today flatting back then polishing up, the only problem here being the very shoddy paint job and prep work so its never in a million years going to look good. But its a good thing to try these products on as he will be getting a full resto in a few years time so not too bothered about the paint.

However i am bothered about the paint on Project Erm, the Scholl Concepts S17+ i take it is a cutting compound but not as abrasive as G3??

Will this be suitable for use after flatting back with 2000 w&d???

Ahh all becomes clear, just had a quick looking a some detailing forums and it will do all that and more so will be putting an order in for 1kg pot tonight. Thanks for the heads up.

Edited by sonikk4, 30 June 2011 - 04:11 PM.


#60 yellow-peril

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 04:46 PM

No problem bud it's top stuff :unsure:.




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