How to get that shine after painting
Posted 27 September 2010 - 05:54 PM
Posted 29 September 2010 - 02:49 AM
Posted 28 October 2010 - 09:34 AM
Posted 06 March 2011 - 09:46 AM
Posted 22 March 2011 - 12:53 AM
Also for celullous paints - this flatting / compound process is essentual - correct?
Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:05 PM
It helps to carry the grit away from the surface and stops the sandpaper clogging so easily, reducing the chances of gouging the paintwork.
Water also keeps it lubricated and cool. The sandpaper generates heat. Just try polishing a windshield and see how much heat is generated. Water becomes the key ingredient.
Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:46 AM
Hey just a few questions - someone above said 'do not use circular motion when w/d sanding'
circular motion leaves swirl marks, and it can lead to low spots on the prepped surface. Horizontal and Vertical Motions are best.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 04:42 PM
If your painting in 2k you need to be cutting it back 24hrs after you have painted it any longer ang it becomes too hard and you run the risk of leaving scratches and polishing rings.
believe this man!! i'm just after spending another day preping my car for another respray the paint looked really really scratched after 2000grit sanding and G3 polishing! i left it 2 weeks before i polished my car because of college and not being at home, time off now so its being done a bit better this time!
thanks for the guide by the way
Posted 20 April 2011 - 08:21 PM
Posted 30 June 2011 - 11:04 AM
Just bought a Silverline polisher off Ebay to see what its like. Its cheap and cheerful but has controllable speed so will give it a go on the Clubman as the paint is not too good before i use it on Erm.
Why the big downer on G3 by the way?? it does seem to be used a lot so why is it not good to use?? The more info the better really especially if you have spent a lot of money on a paint job.
Posted 30 June 2011 - 03:02 PM
A fantastic polish is Scholl Concepts S17+, poops all over G3 or anything else for that matter, water based, highly advanced abrafix abrasive system, quick work time, low on dust, no added water needed, easy to remove splatter if you get any and can finish to a high gloss.
Seriously say no to G3. If you still want some Farecla products I have some (G3 and G10) that you could have cheap. I also have backing plates and tonnes of pads.
Edited by yellow-peril, 30 June 2011 - 03:02 PM.
Posted 30 June 2011 - 03:45 PM
However i am bothered about the paint on Project Erm, the Scholl Concepts S17+ i take it is a cutting compound but not as abrasive as G3??
Will this be suitable for use after flatting back with 2000 w&d???
Ahh all becomes clear, just had a quick looking a some detailing forums and it will do all that and more so will be putting an order in for 1kg pot tonight. Thanks for the heads up.
Edited by sonikk4, 30 June 2011 - 04:11 PM.
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