Honda V-Twin Mini :-)
Posted 24 September 2012 - 06:26 AM
Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:37 AM
Miniblade - yes i want it to look as stock as possible, there may be a bit of bulkhead alteration for clearance but the front end should stay standard otherwise - keeping the inner wheel arches too but again may have to recess the passenger side for one of the heads.
David - I think you have mis-understood what i was trying to do - I started mocking the subframe and engine up yesterday (i bought a complete subframe/wishbones/hubs/shafts etc) the driveshafts come into the engine bay close to the back - there is no way to get the engine behind them, as there is about 2" of space!
Having measured up inside the front of the engine bay, I see that after the subframe i have about another 2" to work with after the front of the subframe itself. Having removed the front part of the subframe (which will be replaced later with a box-section custom part once i know what needs to go where) The clutch housing is a pain, i may need to cut out part of the front panel of the car to allow it to stick out a bit, but this should be hidden by the grill.
Height-wise its all looking ok (will need a custom air box) - i have the subframe mounted on a jig that i built to the standard ride-height. The engine's sump is below this, by the same amount as the standard block, this looks like i will get a good inch space from the top of the block to the bonnet.
This leaves me about 4" to work with from the back of the engine to the centre-line of the driveshafts.
If I need more space to work with, I MAY be able to remove the "generator" (alternator) from the back of the engine, (although i haven't tried this yet, so not sure if thats going to be possible) and drive an external alternator from something.
The diff (which im waiting on) should fit into this gap, I may need to make a hole in the bulkhead for the input shaft...
I'll get some photos up tonight
Edited by darkcat, 24 September 2012 - 07:58 AM.
Posted 24 September 2012 - 12:07 PM
Posted 24 September 2012 - 12:39 PM
Work in progress anyway...!
Posted 25 September 2012 - 06:39 PM
engine needs to be offset to the left it seems...
Edited by darkcat, 25 September 2012 - 06:45 PM.
Posted 25 September 2012 - 07:34 PM
Posted 25 September 2012 - 08:01 PM
yes it flexes but i measured the gap + other dimensions before cutting.
It'll fit but i will have to have the clutch housing poking out of the front a bit...! I suppose i could go down the fibreglass clubman front route... but i just spent a load on the grill and lights
If you can name a diff that will fit in that gap without driving it from behind via a shaft, i'll buy you many pints!
Edited by darkcat, 25 September 2012 - 08:11 PM.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 06:34 AM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 07:30 AM
The engine is as low as it can go - the sump is 2" below the subframe.
infact lowering it would make it worse, because the alternator housing would then be completely in the way.
Yes i will need to cut out part of the rear of the subframe in order to mount the diff, and 99% i'll need to make a recess in the bulkhead too.
the big question is what diff to use - i have an MX5 diff which Might do the job, but i have to extract it from its subframe first.
once i have the config sorted i can build a combined engine/diff cradle from steel.
Posted 27 September 2012 - 01:04 PM
but nothing is going to happen until i get hold of a diff...
Why do i suddenly only have 25 forum posts showing?? im sure i had over 200 last month??
Posted 27 September 2012 - 05:01 PM
Something along the lines of the Yamaha Grizzly - they run independent suspension, and are designed to take punishment, and even better they have diff-lock
Posted 09 October 2012 - 06:28 PM
We have progress.
Having tracked down a suitably small but rugged diff, and a pair of driveshafts, i decided i'd mock up the positioning:
The only down-side with this diff is that its straight-cut, so will probably be a bit noisy. but to be honest over the chain and engine.... well you know!
Monica watching on.....
So the plan is to attach a sprocket to the end of the diff input shaft, and drive it via chain from the gearbox output
The diff is a 3.5:1 ratio, which is higher than the 2.4:1 of the original rear sprocket on the bike - therefore gearing this for acceleration as opposed to top speed... i honestly dont want or need to go over 90 in a mini!!! let alone 180!!!!!!!
Edited by darkcat, 09 October 2012 - 06:35 PM.
Posted 09 October 2012 - 06:44 PM
Posted 09 October 2012 - 09:35 PM
I was under the impression, wrongly probably that most ATV's don't have differentials just a bevel drive, ie a spool type drive?
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users